ARTZ

Roys finally coming around, slowly but surely......man I put mine up for sale a while back, $10k for 300kws on a low km engine ...just needs a proper diff, a decent seat, maybe some 6 pot alcons and its ready to race...no-one wanted it or tried to lowball it....so i kept it....people be crazy...

if its just an internally gated turbo you can quite easily make a bracket that supports the original heatshield...worked for me , i think I had to cut a piece of heatshield away to get around the wastegate but I made the bracket with some spare bolts and scrap metal...no welding or anything...looked stock

Whys that......so you can give him an earfull when it explodes.... ....kidding...

yeah, braided hose is like 10$ a length at bunnings with fittings...

you got a plenum already so get some top feeds Cal..a full set will be much less than sidefeeds so spend 100$ on a rail...or you can just use a NEO rail which ahs the reg built in....@ 300kws on a highway run I get as good as 10L/100km on ethanol with 750cc xspurts... ... cold starts still use alot of juice though and kill around town economy but thats ethanol..still gets around 15L/100 though...my petrol tune uses much less

it was just a generic tap....like one you would find on your hot water system or something with a little handle on it...

nah...rolls has the 740 sidefeeds iirc... http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb25det/1993-98-rb25det

thats how i bought it....Engine .used to cut out occasionally, not exactly sure why but probably had something to do with it

mine made 190kws@ 11psi..completely stock other than the charcoal canister blocked off and a bleed tap from bunnings plumbed into the line ,a crappy canon catback and an apexi pod.... I

close page 21... its a nice looking clutch...tricstar has a good point there though

can you give me a rough date you did it so I dont have to scroll your whole build thread for pics..?

lol...still didnt say how much it was and dood there is 66 pages of thread to go though...sweetbrown.jpeg

and the difference between that and the NPC 10 inch carbotic with flywheel that i have is? Got any pics of it? How much was it? ask alot of questions dont I

what if it causes you to run into a tree?

NPC lightweight flywheel is real nice too...few kilos lighter with cooling vanes to help keep your clutch cool...of course if you get a twin plate you don't need flywheel...I have no doubt their big single would handle 95% of what you are using it for....however its usually that other 5% that matters ...

pretty epic tune...

jesus.....thats more than just a little scary....

what happened to you being a JB fan?

yeah kind if agree here, its not something you want to have to replace too often....that said i picked up a refurbished NPC with flywheel cheap as chips and its been faultless....wanting the best doesn't always have to mean 2500$ worth of Nismo...just means you should do your homework...

bring lube and lots of it....oh and grab us some fireworks please :

not sure...thought it would only fit one way...buti would think it flows through the gold bit fist and out the other end...does it sit in the top of the injector maybe? for the plugs just cut the wires and crimp them in...doesnt matter which way around they go

the extension just clips over the top to make it the same length as your stock injectors....the filter fits in there somewhere i guess like this you only need the cap if the injector is shorter than the ones already in it...alternatively you can not use the caps and just lower your fuel rail to fit....looks neater this way...depends on your setup though to empty your tank just run the pump...run a power wire to it, or just short it across the relay so it pumps and put a jerry can at the fuel line....

did you take it off and put it back on again....works for me sometimes

yeah fwiw i wouldn't bother with a rebuild either, would be secondhand unit or highflow unit....in OPs case it would be a second hand unit...200$ spend change on beer and hookers or getting a professional to check it out so it hopefully doesn't blow another....

too much camber in the rear maybe and they aren't getting any traction down and just spinning wheels...maybe more responsive smaller turbo setup as opposed to laggier big power ones...maybe a bit of both...could be many things... im with keep it simple though.. camber .about 2.5 - 3.5 degrees at the front maybe a 1-1.5 degree or so at the rear...these settings are pretty standard though for any lowered skyline and don't require adjustable arms caster, definately add some, how much will depend on you..just adjust it around until you feel right..small adjustments are easily noticable though and adjustable caster arms is the first adjustable arms i would buy toe...a little at the front and a beezdick or none at the rear.. these are fairly basic settings that dont require alot of modifcation, they will be good for all round use and any good driver should perform well with them in any conditions...Personally I drive more for grip than drift but on the street and track these setting work well for me and effortlessly throws into any corner without worry...So I'd say start here and at the end of the day good drifting (as with any driving) will come down to lots of practice more than your alignment settings...