GTSBoy

Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?

It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.

If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.

Remember kids - if you can't afford to buy 2 GTRs......

No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.

A wise man once told me, "Anything you enjoyed wasting was not wasted".

Have you done 10x restarts since it came on?

Time for some swaptronics.

Just put skinny tyres on it.

Keeping in mind that for most people this is a week to month long job!

This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.

Virtual valve adjustment popping into and out of existence in the quantum foam caused by blowby in the oil.

Hydraulic lifters.

Buy whichever one makes you happiest when you sit in it. After all, that's where you'll be experiencing it.

Well, it's just a solid core cable in an outer. Buy a (longer) cable for something else, take them both apart and build one for the 34?