GTSBoy

No, I didn't misunderstand. I showed that tee because that is the threaded hole that you need a banjo bolt to go into yes? Two of them, one either side of the tee. The through hole in the tee is the 12x1.25 into the block.

This is the tee No specs on the page I grabbed it from, out of stock there anyway. But it kinda looks like a 1mm pitch. Would not think it's going to be 0.75mm pitch.

See above.

OK, I'm with you now. The outlet of the tee that is banjo'd into the block. Dunno what it is, will have a scratch around. The M11 question is.....messy. The minor diameter of an M11x1.0 male thread is 9.917mm. This is smaller than the minor diameter of a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 10.08mm). The M11 major is 11mm. That's smaller than the major on a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 0.4375" or 11.1mm) so an M11x1 bolt should pass on the major side. The pitch of a -24 thread is 1.058mm, which is really close to the M11x1, so it should go in at least several turns. I would expect M11x1 to be loose in a 7/16"-24 UNS, at least until enough thread are engaged to make it stop screwing in, if that can happen. Probably wouldn't happen on such a short bolt as you're looking at on the oil tee. Keep in mind that 7/16"-24 is NOT a standard/typical 7/16" thread. Standard is 20. That's the UNF or fine thread. -24 is really fine. I imagine that Garrett chose -24 for the turbo housing oil inlet to get the number of threads engaged up. I would not expect Nissan to have an imperial (UNF, etc) thread on that tee. I would expect it to be metric (if it is a bolt thread) or BSP (actually the Japanese equivalent of BSP) if it is a pipe thread. Given that it's a banjo, it's going to be a bolt thread. If it looks like an 11mm will go in there, then 11mm seems likely. It is very possible that some clown has stuffed that thread by trying to jam some imperial "near equivalent" into it, perhaps with those hoses of yours. Got verniers? Measure up the threads on the hoses.

OK. So, you will find what you want in this thread. The very post linked.

I'm not sure I follow you. The underlined thread specification is correct. That is exactly the thread called out on the Garrett "flange diagram" of the GT2860R - 0.4376IN-24 - where 0.4376" is close enough to 0.4375" which is 7/16". It is shown as an inverted flare connection. A banjo bolt to go into that would want to be that thread size, and I guess not bother about the flare. Or....are you not talking about on the turbo? Are you talking about the other end of the hard pipe? The supply end?

We're not talking about one of those little girl LS's like yours. We're talking the big boy. LS7.

I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.

Waiting for a queue of Supras to get out of the way. Then the same conversion work to the box which was probably bought about the same day as you bought yours, by the sound of it. And hopefuly with enough Supras out of the way we'll finally get to do the box into the car along with the injectors and AFM so that the last 18 months of driving a highflow nearly NA can finally come to an end.

Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.

Soak that one in Penetrene. Leave, repeat, etc. Then heat.

Although the best way will be to put in an LS7. Why anyone would mess with an RB when they live in the country where the LS7 was built is a mystery that can never be solved.

But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.

Wow. Pissy much? You on a mission to find old posts to argue with, or is this legitimately just because you're 5 years into a 1 day job?

Thermosyphon.

In this case, the issue I see is that if the throttle is part open, to give the boost/power you're wanting, and the boost reference is from the plenum and thus there is less boost than the boost target, then the controller is going to have the wastegate more/totally closed and you're going to have higher EMP than you otherwise could have, if the boost reference was in the tract upstream of the throttle. More EMP is never a good thing, except in terms of response. So, in this instance, you would have really good throttle response, because the turbo is already slogging away hard and there is pressure upstream of the throttle to be had. Just with the penalty of more ex manifold pressure, with the usual consequences of that.

Note that I'm not suggesting this is a great idea. Just saying that it is something that could be done to achieve a better outcome than the more shit ideas will provide.

Yes, that's a hybrid BOV. The adjustable spring load ones are about making teh pressure build up higher before venting, so you get a more agressive whoosh. That is not what I meant or what you want. By "restricting", I don't mean "keep it closed until the pressure is higher, then open it fully". I mean "open it as soon as it is required, but only have a small port area, so that the flow rate out of it is slowed down". The pressure will rise to be higher than a bigger ported BOV would provide, but it would do while it is venting. The idea is to slow down the rate at which the replacement eair is flowing past the AFM, to reduce the magnitude of the air flow signal peak, to reduce the amount of fuel that is added per revolution.

If the toe is widly out of whack you won't get the self-centralisation that you expect and are used to. Correct the toe, then report back. As to the stuff you've used....it's really intended for drift cars.

A BOV that both has an external vent and a return pipe connection is a hybrid BOV. I wasn't talking about one of those. If you bought one of those, I'd instead just buy a return only one. I was talking about a BOV that only vents. I mean doing something, yourself, to restrict the outlet. Jamming something in there, welding something on with a ball valve on it so you can adjust it, etc etc.

Oh, I also meant to say that it is possible to use a venting BOV and restrict its outlet down so that it does vent enough to prevent the sututu, but vents slowly enough that the AFM doesn't see all the air at once and makes it easier to avoid stalling.

I'll go talk to my bank manager. Either that or my nearest western Sydney drug baron.

Driveability will be about the same with either externally venting BOV, or no BOV at all. Perhaps worse one way than the other, with me thinking that the definitely more flow going through the AFM through a venting BOV more likely to cause rich stalls than the perhaps more flow that the AFM might read on reversion. There is no such thing as "turbo damage" from not having a BOV at stock, or even quite a lot higher than stock, power levels. You need a big turbo with a lot of mass spinning hard getting a horrible slowdown from a slammed shut throttle before there is anything like the shaft loads required to damage things. Not an issue on small turbos. The ONLY 2 reasons that Nissan put a recirc valve onto the RB were: It is a bypass valve. It is open when under vacuum. When not on boost, it bypasses intake air forward around the compressor, which unloads the compressor, allowing the turbine to sping more freely, making the whole lot a bit more efficient when just puddling around. Throttle response should also be faster via the shorter, smaller diameter BOV pipe (when in NA, ie before the BOV closes and boost is building) which is nicer for driveability. Emissions. The reversion causes CO pulses. Eliminate the reversion (or at least, keep it away from the AFM) and you don't get that. The stalling/driveability aspect could have been tuned around, as shown one example of by dose above, if Nissan hadn't put a recirc valve on. Many many turbo engines before the RB had no BOV. They did not stall. See the RB30 turbo as an example. Nistune is definitely better than just stock ECU. It allows you to access and change things that are not excellent on the stock setup, and allows you to do mods like put decent injectors in, relocate the AFM, put a bigger turbo or even cams, etc, on, change to coil swith completely different swell needs, etc etc. All the things that you might need or want to do 25 years after the car was new. Aftermarket replacement ECU is obviously better again, because it gives you even more freedom from the constraints of the stock ECU. I won't be needing to go any further than Nistune though, for the new turbo in the 250ish rwkW region I'm going to, with big injectors, and most other things being stockish.

Meh, I think we're well into a new era of 90s JDM car. The days when spare engines and parts were cheap and plentiful are long gone. Therefore the YOLO approach is now massively difficult to justify, use and maintain. One should start to ponder whether an 800HP build is really justified, using stock parts. My thoughts? If you like/love the car and want to keep it and don't want to ruin yet another one, then be discrete about how much you ask from the stock parts. A 5 or 600 HP build is still a very fast car. If you want to go silly, have to have the 1000HP territory, then just drop all your cash, buy billet everything (or PRP cast block, etc etc) and use a bigger/more modern gearbag, and put a massive retrofit diff and axles into it. If you ruin any of those things then you're either ham fisted and deserve it, or you're pushing waaaay too far for the stock stuff anyway. The (presumably) young guys who are buying 30-35 year old busted arse Jap refugees and thinking they can live the life that was lived by others 20 years ago are deluded. Expectations need to be adjusted somewhat.

I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.