GTSBoy

Yeah, but it's only a bit of a massage around the outside edges of the MAF based load-TP calc anyway. In this particular instance, unless he put a simply massive TB on there, the factory mapping should be fine to handle it.

Or, failing that, probe the state of the switch at the ECU.

These are visible in the ECU via Consult.

Transient throttle shouldn't cause any problems on a MAF based ECU. Are we still stock ECU here? The only real problem you can see from a larger TB (on stock MAF setup) is if the TB is simply too f**king large. Then even just a tiny amount of opening is too much for "just off idle" and it will always be a piece of crap to drive. Joshua's mention of the TPS setting for throttle closed is a good one.

Nah, there's no such info out there.

Alright then.....broken wire. Grab the wiring diagram and follow the wires. You'll find it.

Corroded door switch.

That has little to do with the "Mine's knock control strategy", such as it is, so much as it is typical for old Nissan Knock sensors to be non-functional. "Mine's may well just copy paste the normal ignition map onto the knock map (which is typical stupid 90s styleeez), or they might actually have a few degrees taken out. But if the knock sensor doesn't hear anything, the ECU doesn't do anything. I have deliberately provoked knock on both an RB20 and a 25Neo and not seen the ECU do shit.

Yes. If buying (coilover) suspension these days, it is foolish to do anything other than buy MCA or Shockworks (Shockworx?) in Australia. Properly specc'd, quality controlled, locally dev'd & supported. A better decision than random D shift stuff out of Taiwan or China.

Yes

Always do it on a level surface. The same level surface. The place where it was parked at the shops only has to be 1° sloping left, and the place at home 1° sloping right, to have a noticeable effect. Any more angle than that just compounds the deviation.

And don't bother trying to source bearings, seals and crush washers yourself.** That's what the diff shop is for. **Not that it's hard. Nearly everything you want is available at JustJap anyway. And the other usual suspects.

Here's a whole bunch of snowflakes. They're all different. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=snowflake+emoji&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiv7rKM2Jv6AhUj_zgGHQI5BLgQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=snowflake+emoji&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQ6BAgAEEM6BggAEB4QB1DFCFigHWC1IGgAcAB4AIAByQKIAYIOkgEIMC4xMC4wLjGYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&sclient=img&ei=zqolY6_PG6P-4-EPgvKQwAs&bih=844&biw=1659

The zombie

The e-penis :dildo:

f**king wow! Good reaction time there C.

RE003 are made from polymerised horse piss and should never be discussed in context with real tyres. RS4 are good. I'm still not convinced that they are anywhere near as pleasant to live with as AD08R. And so I will be going AD09 at the next opportunity.

Copy-paste of reply to PM. The loom that contains the power wire for the O2 sensor also carries the PS wiring and when the power wire melted and burnt, it took out a couple of other wires in that loom, including the PS wiring. So, I just repaired the broken wires. Had to split the loom open and do a bit of surgery on a few wires.

Or.....take it to a decent Mongoose installer and see if they have a backdoor fix?

Fixed on FF.

Street only.

Should go on. The only question is whether the GT front brakes take a 14mm bolt (like those GT-T brakes you have there) or a 12mm bolt like all the other brakes that came before. If your original brakes are 12mm, then your options are; Drill the bolt holes on the uprights to take the 14mm bolts (easy enough, done with care, but not easily reversible). IF GT calipers have the same style of knurled inserts with the female thread in them that the GT-T calipers have, then knock them out of each set of calipers and swap the 12mm threaded ones into the GT-T calipers. BUT.....I wouldn't expect this to be a thing. It would be a thing is you were dealing with some other set of Sumitomo Skyline 4 pots. I know, because I've done it. But the nasty calipers on the GT are probably provided with threads in a different manner.

I only have <200rwkW and the R32** has poor longitudinal traction with anything less than this sort of tyre. Additionally, the way I drive is same-speed-all-the-time. I get 100000km out of a set of brake pads, but I kill tyres every 10000km. I need the lateral grip provided by the ~200tw tyres so I can treat all corners as if they are part of the straight. ** Stupid anti-squat geo is next on my list to kill.

There's already at least 1 thread on here on the topic. Have a search for it. They might have been talking about it in the ZF 8HP thread too.

You can bolt a vanilla 25 head onto a Neo block. But.... The Neo chambers are ~10cc smaller than the vanillas. With almost the same comp ratio, that means that the piston crowns are a lot lower on the Neo. Thus, Neo head on vanilla block makes for a low comp piece of shit. You then need to go to a lot of effort with pistons and rods to get the comp back. The VCT oil drain thing. And, lots of other little annoyances. Want to bolt the vanilla inlet manifold to the Neo? Can be done, but the port match is not the same. (I'm reasonably sure of that, but perhaps check). If so, then choosing between the Neo manifold and the vanilla manifold starts to impact on ECU peripherals, like the IACV. Again, not insurmountable - just shit you have to take care of to make it work (unless aftermarket ECU, in which case, it makes little difference).