GTSBoy

No, I mean try both and see what works better.

Try bumping up the time in the +10°C to 32 ms and see if that helps. If it does, set it back, and try 64 in the -10°C instead.

Hardly going to hurt resale.

To answer your question, there will likely only be the one. If you made the mistake of buying a Japanese street legal system (JASMA approved) then it pretty much will have to have a 2.5" restrictor in it. Just one more reason why most of us on here who give advice on such things tell people to choose 2x good mufflers and get their local good exhaust shop to build an exhaust.

And as long as you're open with it and there is some way to note it in CARJAM, there really shouldn't be any problem. Your physical solution is to go buy a cheap Chinesium cordless drill, connect it to the speedo drive (pulled out of the gearbox) and sit the car in the garage with the trigger cable tied until it has done 24000km. That would suck, but it would work. Your electronic solution is to make an Arduino to output a sine/triangle wave of about +/-1V and pulse it at whatever frequency is broadly equivalent to 300 km/h and let it run until the odo winds on 24000km. That's about 80 hours, or a long weekend.

Which pulleys? Cam or accessory belts?

Excessive torque is what chips teeth off of meshed gears. That can be a direct effect from simply giving it way more than it can handle, or it can be a cumulative thing where the shaft bearings cop a flogging over time and then allow the shafts to move apart and load the gear teeth incorrectly. It can also happen where the case can't take the torque loads, deforms and allows shit to move to new and unexpected positions wrt each other. Hamfisted shifting is what strips teeth off of synchros.

Kudos, Amayama, RHDJapan, Just Jap in Kirawee, are just a few possibles. Nissan in Japan via Jesse Streeter or Import Monster, if necessary.

Sadly, it would probably be behind/under the dash. You need to look at the wiring diagrams to see where there are earth points "close" to the instrument cluster and other devices in that area. Then you can pursue the wiring from those things back towards the various earth points on the steelwork behind/under the dash area. Keep in mind that sometimes the earths are not actually where you might expect, and might, for example, be out near the sensing devices (like maybe the fuel sender). It is more likely that you will have dud earths out in the open/wet areas of the car or where f**kfisted previous owners could have done something stupid than behind the dash. But you can't exclude the possibility that someone has damaged something behind the dash either.

Give all the likely fuses a wiggle. Pull 'em out put 'em back in. I have one circuit on my car (that powers the radio etc) that needs this every couple of years. But I would warrant that it's more likely an earth problem.

I see the HICAS rack putting enough energy into the rear end to shake the front wheels like that as being about as possible as moving the G&L Mardi Gras to Mt Isa.

Possibilities can happen. But impossibilities can't.

Yup, ammeter. Has to go in the main charging output from the alternator, which is kind of why they died a death after the 80s. Used to be one hanging under the dash of every hoon's HK Holden in the 70s.

HICAS has no ability to make the front rack move. It won't be that. My money is on the pump and/or rack being in a bad state from running dry.

eyeblink.gif at the concept of doing such a swap without having the wiring diagrams in hand first.

No charge gauge on any Skyline (or S chassis car). Exciter light is all there is.

Hydraulic lifters do go bad. But that's just it. It's usually the lifters, not other parts that wear out, unless the lifters have been left bad for a long time.

In that case, either piss or get off the pot. Don't stuff around. Build a 10000rpm screamer. Full house OTT polish and balance everything to the nth degree. 6 throttles with open ram tubes, handbuilt extractors. 300° cam, 13mm valve lift, 11:1 compression and E85. These things have hydraulic lifters. Just sayin'. This would be a fine way to waste money. No supercharged engine is ever as good as an equivalently turbo'd engine, but it is a different sort of fun. Noise + insta-boost is always fun. Not sure how shaving the head means that you need shorter valve stems. Are you thinking about the right things? It's not like it's got pushrods. The cam moves up and down with the head, and everything in it, no matter how much you chop off the bottom. No, higher comp means it will make more power. The swept displacement remains the same (unless you bore &/ore stroke it). The head flow remains the same (unless you do something to the head &/or cam). So, the air flow will remain essentially the same. It's just the extra compression drags more power out of the same amount of fuel and air. An NA 26/30 sounds like a good idea. But a 2JZ swap is probably more interesting. No problem. I'm not actually out to stop people from having fun modifying stuff - but it is sometimes necessary to mention where efforts are wasted vs. where efforts will return benefit.

No, it's more work, because you have to make the external oil feed for the VCT. Just a question. How much money are you willing to spend on not going fast?

But seriously, one makes it move left-right, the other makes it move up-down. Twist one and find out. 30s self teaching moment.

If it is overboosting with the wastegate fed direct from the boost source, then the wastegate is clearly not doing its job. Stuck, jammed, frozen, etc.

Seriously, unless it has to stay NA, DO NOT DO ANY WORK ON THE ENGINE. . . . NOTHING. If you want it to be fast, put a turbo on it. Case closed. If you want to be different and fast, put a supercharger on it. An engine conversion to a LS1 would make more sense than doing anything at all to an NA RB30.

Cheap small compressors are the devils' work. The only way they make sense is if you buy 3 or 4 of them and gang them all together.

You will never need to change the inlet manifold for an NA application. You wouldn't even need to change it for 400rwkW of turbo application. The stocker might look poxy, but it works properly. Changing to front facing won't demand a tuneable ECU. You could do so on the stock ECU. Just use the stock TPS on the stock (or possibly even larger) TB and it will all still work. The plenum does not control the power the car makes anywhere near as much as you might imagine. If you want it just for looks, that's fine, but don't make the mistake of thinking that it will be a performance upgrade. My single biggest suggestion is to spend your money where it will actually make a difference, not on things that are effectively just wank.

Note that I said "less than 140 kW". The S2 GTS motor made that much, the S1 made 130, the normal R31 make ~120 and the VL motor made 114 kW. At the engine. Starting from your likely, factory fresh 120 kW, adding 25 years of use, it might make a bit more than 100 kW now. Without freshening up the bottom end, most of that difference is unlikely to come back, even with a standard head rebuild. So, benefit of the doubt call the baseline 110kW if you have a fresh head on the old bottom end. Now, if instead of the head being just reconditioned, you gave it a mild port job, just cleaning up the bowls, taking care of the guides, port matching to the inlet manifold and polishing up the exhaust side a bit, plus a decent set of extractors, you might give it an extra 25 kW. I would hesitate to suggest that you will get more. To make the most of any such work you would be well advised to put a Nistune board into the ECU and some fresh injectors and AFM so that you can tune it more aggressively. You'd probably make more power just with a tune than with a street port job on its own! I must reiterate, porting does not equal diving into the ports with a jackhammer and making them as large as possible. You only get the head ported to the extent that it will not hurt performance in the intended operation model. For a streeter, just giving it a tickle is usually as much as you can do. A full race port job with many hours spent digging every last scrap of flow out of it will result in a head with low port velocity when you're driving around at road revs unless you keep it boiling away in the upper half of the rev range all the time, and that gets old VERY QUICKLY. You need to find a head specialist near you that has experience with RB30s, who will know how much time and effort (and therefore $$) to put into a head. Spoiler alert. Porting takes many hours and costs many dollars. Turbos will return much more power per dollar spent.