GTSBoy

90% chance you cooked it and blew headgasket which has pushed various fluids various places where they shouldn't have gone. It's getting harder to find good 2nd hand engines these days, thanks to all the wankers who've treated them as if they were disposable all these years. A rebuild is starting to look more like the path people will have to take in the future.

Not sure why you want to specify inconel. If I were spending money on a GTR's turbos, I'd be going EFR, 100%.

The options for where the oil is coming from are innumerable. Diagnosing this without taking it apart, across the internet, is not going to be possible. Could be leaking from the oil pump gasket. You might have damage on the front of the block where the idler bolt is - which wouldn't normally be a suspect except for how your engine died last time. Needs at least partial dismantlery to find it.

You can also buy a box that goes in the antenna line (ie, the car's antenna plugs into it and then you plug the box into the head unit's antenna input) and it subtracts X MHz from the signal and effectively scales back all the local stations so they tune in on the Jap frequency range. It's what we all did in the 90s.

Not rebuilding the bottom end on a REALLY OLD engine is not always the right move when you're talking about headwork and big cams. There's no point in talking about porting and big cams unless planning on lots of boost and big revs. Massive boost + cast pistons not always good bedfellows. 270° cams on an RB20 = lag for days, boost from 4500 up to 9000+. I'd be thinking about new rods and/or rod prep, ARP rod bolts, forged pistons. At the least. Probably worth considering the oil pump situation too. Otherwise, it is fairly common to see RB20s run about 260-270rwkW without much preparation and run for a few years before popping.

It's far from ideal where it is. They really need to be placed right over the top of the turbo flange area.

I can't tell you about R33 stuff specifically. I can tell you that I only know for sure that the small plug works on R32s. Given that the HICAS systems on these cars are not the same, you should not assume it also works on R33s. And yes, on an R32 it's effectively a disabler for HICAS because the HICAS rack is self locking when it is in fault.

Of course....the driveshaftshop.com replacements (at approx. 1 million Pacific Pesos!!!) use not flanged inner CVs and an adapter ring onto the 5 or 6 bolt diff axle flanges. This would obviously be an option to anyone getting something customed up. If there were much stronger CVs that you wanted to use that didn't mate up - just adapt them. Easiest done with new custom shafts too, so the total length can be set right.

Um....why not set it to something, and see if it runs too hot or too cold and then adjust as per normal engineering practice?

https://xforce.com.au/product/vmk51-250/

Nope. As in, I don't know of any. I'd be reasonably confident that you could talk to any diff/rear end specialist that does hi-po stuff and they could probably source/make new axles that would be made from stronger materials or perhaps have some pixie dust waved over them. I don't know if there's anything other than the Nissan CVs available.

Fuel pump dead/dying or power supply to it dodgy, per trident's suggestion.

There were a lot of NA Skylines, Cefiros, etc made with RB25DEs in them. There are many of these boxes still available in Japan. If you need one, don't be trying to look in the USA, where there will be almost none. Try looking at the source. Consider using Jesse Streeter or one of the other buying & shipping agents who live over there to get you one.

Fair enough. But it doesn't change the fact that you have broader options for original source of your gearbox.

Doesn't have to drip on the floor. It's clearly a slow leak - it's only a film on the pan. It probably only weeps out when it's running and has some pressure somewhere.

I think the general assumption is that the hamfisted will be more hamfisted with a short shifter.

RB25DE gearbox is exactly the same gearbox as the RB20DET. The small frame gearbox. RB25DET gearbox is much larger. It's the big frame gearbox that was used in Z32s, Nissan pickups (and the GTR, essentially). That box would definitely require tailshaft modifications, although that is no problem. Every single person who has put an RB25 gearbox into an R32 here in Australia has carted the necessary parts off to the tailshaft workshop (usually Hardy Spicer) and had them cut and shut them together. Hardy Spicers have done it so many times that you don't even need to take measurements! They know the lengths off by heart. It's not hard. I am very surprised that you think you can use the 260Z tailshaft against an RB20 gearbox anyway. I would have thought that the back end of the L260's gearbox would have been different to the RB20's.

That seems a little like overkill. I just noticed in the 1st photo that it appears to be wet from up on the side of the box, not just the pan. Look for leaks from up high.

I'm not sure I follow. The RB20DET manual gearbox is physically exactly the same as the RB25DE. You unbolt one, bolt in the other.

Also RB25 NA box is the same thing. Slightly different ratios, but actually a better choice.

Rear main seal? As in engine rear main.

You want -0.75° to -1° at the rear. More than that will lead to rapid wear on a street car. At the front, up to 2°, but better at 1.5°. I have been running slightly more camber in the last year than previous, and I can see the wear difference on the inner edges - very clearly.

Gear position / neutral has nothing to do with it. You have just experienced something weird. As my crystal ball is currently out getting resurfaced, I am unable to discern what caused it. Please call another psychic.

This would be a flat battery.

What do you mean "keep my box and diff"? Keep the box and diff from the R32, or from the R33? The R32 gearbox will not enjoy RB25 torque. The diffs are basically the same. I would strongly suggest you do some searching, because this is by far not the first time anyone has asked what it takes to drop a 25 into a 32.