GTSBoy

You have wired it wrong. Get the wiring diagram (for just about any similar RB engined car). The R34 one will do. Look at the wiring for that circuit. It appears next to the ECU pinout. You will see that the ECU provides the earth for the fuel pump on 2 terminals. One with the resistor to drop the pump voltage, one without and controlled by the original relay. The 12V+ battery to run all this comes from outside all of this lot. If you wire it up wrong you can be putting the new 12V+ onto the back side of the resistor and giving some voltage to each of the ECU and the fuel pump - keeping it running. You have to make sure that your new wiring does things in the same order as the original wiring, and make whatever disconnections you need to. You just need the ECU to provide the constant earth (not through the resistor) to make the new relay pull in.

Rotors don't warp anywhere near as often as people make out they do. It is usually uneven thickness, which can be from odd wear, or more usually, uneven deposition of pad binder compound onto the rotor surface. Get a mobile guy to come and give them a really light skim (on car is fine) and see if it fixes it. He will be able to look at the runout before he starts and tell you if they look like they are actually warped or not.

Don't you love how many misfires these days are from blocked cats and holed pistons?

Pretty much all old tech injectors do. Don't f**k about with them. Modern injectors are available. I cannot fathom why anyone would want to dick about with Nismos these days.

How much you wanna spend? Snap-On is an easy answer if you don't mind spending a lot.

They're both thongs. Just for different things. Same as the driveshafts. :D

You're opening yourself up to a discussion about jandals and chullybuns now!

The tail shaft is the shaft that runs between the gearbox output and the diff's input. This is a driveshaft, but we don't call it a driveshaft, because that's what we call the axles that carry the drive from the diff out to the wheels.

If speedo is working then speed sensor is working. +/- 1V sawtooth (AC) signal generated by the speed sensor is translated into 0-5v square wave PWM signal at the speedo head and transmitted on the Consult bus for all the CUs to read. if the ECU can't see it then the TCU and the HCU won't be able to see it either. Would suggest that either head has a fault or the wiring is broken in some way. Look at the wiring diagrams for ANY Skyline to see how that signal typically gets around, then chase its wiring around with a multimeter. If you want to look for the signal itself, you will need an oscilloscope of some description.

Wow. I posted in response to a slightly inane followup and that post is gone, leaving mine sitting there straight after my previous post. Weird. I am prompted to ask something.....are the N1 lenses perhaps plastic, not glass? You know, for lightness?

Sandblasting is the only way that glass lenses get "cloudy". Polishing glass is a different kettle of fish to trying to get rid of UV damaged polycarbonate.

Say waht? Was the idea of putting the GTR box in because it was imagined that the GTR box was stronger? That's a fail in logic right there, seeing as they are essentially the same gearbox. The only good reason for the swap has been non-availability of RB25 boxes and availability of cheap GTR boxes. Which is a situation that doesn't always make sense either.

What is a stage 2? Where are your power numbers? Flywheel or rollers? You will need turbo, ECU, injectors, probably a fuel pump and an AFM (if the ECU needs it). You will need these things. You can't just do one thing and drive away. The stock bits won't support the big turbo. There are dozens and dozens of threads on this topic just this year. Search. In particular, look at the sticky thread for RB25 turbo upgrades. Look at the Hypergear thread. Look at the EFR thread and the Garrett G series thread. These will all point you towards turbo choices.

I would say that there is a very very good chance that the OP's problem is NOT that the gearbox is stuffed. The reported symptoms are that a gearbox that worked in the old shell won't stay in gear in the new shell. It is my opinion that the new shell was an auto, the gearshift hole in the tunnel is in a different spot and the rubber shift boot, which is bolted to the tunnel is pulling the shifter backward. Seen it happen in my car. You need some delicate fettling to stop it happening. I think* I rotated the boot 180° to gain a little less tension in it. *was more than 15 years ago now, so memory is fuzzy.

Don't feed the troll.

Open circuit is........infinite resistance.

Someone is selling a Consult cable and ECUTalk setup on these very forums, for not much $$ at all. Otherwise, you go to a mechanic who has a scan tool and plug in and investigate. Fault codes aren't all that helpful if there's not a big enough fault to actually raise a code. What we're looking for here is what the ECU thinks the temperature is when hot, cold, plugged in and unplugged, plus what it might be doing to injector pulse widths while cranking under those circumstances.

Not sure. Can you get a Consult onto it to see what the ECU thinks is going on when you plug & unplug it?

If we get more members like this, I'm going to have to get rid of my Skyline. I should put an LS3 and TR6060 into it just to piss him off. Maybe a Chev badge on the grille . f**k me, I have never heard such dribble.

Put dodgy shocks back on, put head & or camera under car and see what's happening.

Geezus Christ Slap. How the f**k can you post a video of a drag car fast enough to need a 'chute that must be running on massive slicks and believe that it makes sense?

What's your problem? That's about the same $$ as the RAV4 Cruiser. I just bought a RAV for the missus and I can tell you that spending that much money on a Golf would be more satisfying. But dropping $50k on a car is nothing these days. Dropping 50 on something that does <3s 0-100 actually sounds like good value. It would cost at least as much to get a 2WD Skyline to launch like that Golf R. Any GTR is going to be in a whole other league of cost to get to the same point, simply because they're not cheap. The only hope to do it cheap in a Skyline would be a GTS4.

Maaaaaaaaybe. I think perhaps you should look at what a $37k Golf R + maybe $15k worth of go fast bits can do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co-FHdmHEKo Very fast. Modern AWD + silly power = more than most Skylines can provide

Public service announcement. Whilst I would rather leave this thread alone, now, I note that I have a bad habit of typing ID14 when I mean EV14. Have a nice day.

This won't be the first time that it's been something quite unexpected.