GTSBoy

2" rolling diameter is a huge change. You can't do it in the CU data, because the speed signal starts at the speed sensor as a +/-1 volt AC voltage and the speedo head converts it to the pulsed square wave 0-5v signal that everything else in the car uses. Thus you need to fix it in the signal coming from the sensor to the speedo. Yes, Jaycar is an electronics chain in Australia. Their speedo correction kit should work, but there should also be somewhat freely available equivalents out on the net (in terms of circuit design) and I would imagine that there would have to be Arduino type projectes out there too.

I do not think there is any such thing as an LED "replacement" globe that goes where a halogen came from and works worth a shit. The enclosures are not designed for LEDs and usually the cooling of the back end of the LED assembly is nowhere near what it needs to be for them to survive. Whilst the LED chips themselves are probably just getting to the point of being bright enough (in an H1/H3/H4/H7 sized array) they are nowhere near all collected into the same point that the halogen filament is to work properly in the reflector/projector optics of the halogen lamp body. They are probably legal. Even complete replacement lamp bodies (like replacing the R32 projector with an LED projector) is probably legal, and is in fact the only way that using LEDs in any original halogen car makes sense. Short version. Just because LED LED headlamps work properly does not mean that LED converted halogens will.

Um.......the lifter consists of two parts. The bucket and the shim. The shim sticks out of the top. They are not "assembled". They may be "stuck" together and need some encouragement, but that's all. What's most important is when you put it back together you find out what the clearances are and sort the shim thicknesses out.

No, it would be the boost spike causing power to rise very rapidly then the response of the controller actually pulls more boost out of it than it needed to and the output drops below where it was and takes a moment to get back - and in that moment the dyno pull has proceeded up the rpms a bit more and you get hole in the curve. It's all about the PID tuning.

Z32 with a Nistune chip will work and used to be the only option for Nistune, but more recent development means that an R32 ECU with Nistune is a better choice. Works perfectly and is pretty cheap. Standalone is somewhat easier. Any modern ECU will do - seriously. Whatever your favourite tuner is most comfortable with will be the best choice unless you have specific I/O needs.

It's been said many times before, the GKTech fan doesn't seem to work in RB applications. Is intended for SR20 dorifto.

Little black box (about 40-50mm across) bolted to the firewall near the brake booster. Should have boost hose and electrical connection coming into its underside. That's all there, all that could be "missing". Trace the boost hose, trace the wiring. Use a wiring diagram to understand how it gets from the firewall to the dash (it's not far, but it does go into the main loom first, obviously).

Keep in mind that the rust is not from the wheels, it's from the brakes. The product CLR Clear might be strong enough to clean it off.

The standard advice around here is to not do it. More pain and expense than it is worth. There is no such thing as a "kit". You can try to scrape together the minimum things you will need to make it happen, which is; Turbo + manifold, exhaust, intercooler, injectors fuel pump. Oh, and an ECU, because the pain inherent in trying to make a GTT ECU run on a hacked together mishmash of things with some missing/wrong sensors etc etc is not worth it. Aftermarket ECU simplifies life. But that ignores that you will destroy the clutch and so will need one of them. And the gearbox won't last too long either, so you really should put a big one in. And the open diff will have its own float in the Mardis Gras, and the front brakes will need upgrading.....and you're in Melbourne, so adding a turbo is like totally illegal without full engineering, so add that if you want your insurance to work.

Yup, dumbo typo. SR it is.

RDA slotted & dimpled better value than DBA. Intima RS is my preferred pad for street. Note that RS is their "street/track" pad. SS is their "street" pad. RS works very well as a street pad. Also, very good value. I have no specific knowledge of the DBA pad that you mention.

No, because I don't have any flowbench numbers for an RB head. The only head I've ever ported and done before & afters on was my Alfa twincam.

No, I was telling him that your numbers were approximately 10 times higher than they should be. Heads are flowed on a flow bench with a certain suction pressure applied. 10 inches of water, or 25, or 28. Head flow is not expressed in an engine running configuration. It is always on a flow bench at a certain depression. The depression used is important, because, of course, the measured flow will be a lot higher at 28" than at 10". "Increments" refers to increments of valve lift. It is important to flow a head at various valve lifts so that you can see what it does in the cam lift period where the head is close to the seat, and in mid lift, and at max lift. It's a bit like a dyno sheet where area under the curve can tell you things that the peak number alone can't.

Or maybe numbers that are about 1 power of 10 less than that?

They won't be re-making any R32 fuel senders any time......ever.

Well, you could take the headlight apart (needs patience, an oven, spare headlights in case you f**k it up) and try to do some careful desoldering and replacement of LEDs.... or, you could buy new headlights.

No, I mean try both and see what works better.

Try bumping up the time in the +10°C to 32 ms and see if that helps. If it does, set it back, and try 64 in the -10°C instead.

Hardly going to hurt resale.

To answer your question, there will likely only be the one. If you made the mistake of buying a Japanese street legal system (JASMA approved) then it pretty much will have to have a 2.5" restrictor in it. Just one more reason why most of us on here who give advice on such things tell people to choose 2x good mufflers and get their local good exhaust shop to build an exhaust.

And as long as you're open with it and there is some way to note it in CARJAM, there really shouldn't be any problem. Your physical solution is to go buy a cheap Chinesium cordless drill, connect it to the speedo drive (pulled out of the gearbox) and sit the car in the garage with the trigger cable tied until it has done 24000km. That would suck, but it would work. Your electronic solution is to make an Arduino to output a sine/triangle wave of about +/-1V and pulse it at whatever frequency is broadly equivalent to 300 km/h and let it run until the odo winds on 24000km. That's about 80 hours, or a long weekend.

Which pulleys? Cam or accessory belts?

Excessive torque is what chips teeth off of meshed gears. That can be a direct effect from simply giving it way more than it can handle, or it can be a cumulative thing where the shaft bearings cop a flogging over time and then allow the shafts to move apart and load the gear teeth incorrectly. It can also happen where the case can't take the torque loads, deforms and allows shit to move to new and unexpected positions wrt each other. Hamfisted shifting is what strips teeth off of synchros.

Kudos, Amayama, RHDJapan, Just Jap in Kirawee, are just a few possibles. Nissan in Japan via Jesse Streeter or Import Monster, if necessary.

Sadly, it would probably be behind/under the dash. You need to look at the wiring diagrams to see where there are earth points "close" to the instrument cluster and other devices in that area. Then you can pursue the wiring from those things back towards the various earth points on the steelwork behind/under the dash area. Keep in mind that sometimes the earths are not actually where you might expect, and might, for example, be out near the sensing devices (like maybe the fuel sender). It is more likely that you will have dud earths out in the open/wet areas of the car or where f**kfisted previous owners could have done something stupid than behind the dash. But you can't exclude the possibility that someone has damaged something behind the dash either.