GTSBoy

Don't feed the troll.

Open circuit is........infinite resistance.

Someone is selling a Consult cable and ECUTalk setup on these very forums, for not much $$ at all. Otherwise, you go to a mechanic who has a scan tool and plug in and investigate. Fault codes aren't all that helpful if there's not a big enough fault to actually raise a code. What we're looking for here is what the ECU thinks the temperature is when hot, cold, plugged in and unplugged, plus what it might be doing to injector pulse widths while cranking under those circumstances.

Not sure. Can you get a Consult onto it to see what the ECU thinks is going on when you plug & unplug it?

If we get more members like this, I'm going to have to get rid of my Skyline. I should put an LS3 and TR6060 into it just to piss him off. Maybe a Chev badge on the grille . f**k me, I have never heard such dribble.

Put dodgy shocks back on, put head & or camera under car and see what's happening.

Geezus Christ Slap. How the f**k can you post a video of a drag car fast enough to need a 'chute that must be running on massive slicks and believe that it makes sense?

What's your problem? That's about the same $$ as the RAV4 Cruiser. I just bought a RAV for the missus and I can tell you that spending that much money on a Golf would be more satisfying. But dropping $50k on a car is nothing these days. Dropping 50 on something that does <3s 0-100 actually sounds like good value. It would cost at least as much to get a 2WD Skyline to launch like that Golf R. Any GTR is going to be in a whole other league of cost to get to the same point, simply because they're not cheap. The only hope to do it cheap in a Skyline would be a GTS4.

Maaaaaaaaybe. I think perhaps you should look at what a $37k Golf R + maybe $15k worth of go fast bits can do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co-FHdmHEKo Very fast. Modern AWD + silly power = more than most Skylines can provide

Public service announcement. Whilst I would rather leave this thread alone, now, I note that I have a bad habit of typing ID14 when I mean EV14. Have a nice day.

This won't be the first time that it's been something quite unexpected.

I'm an end user, not a tuner, and I have both the cable and the license and have done some of the tuning on my car. Gosh! Well, some of us graduated with degrees in Chemical Engineering last century, have been working in process industries designing all sorts of stuff, including shit that you need TUV FSE for, and know when what someone says about their Mech Eng & IT degrees is completely irrelevant. Whereas Matt from Nistune actually has a degree and industrial experience relevant to designing microcontroller gear and reverse engineering other people's opcode and whatever other bullshit they have hidden inside their 30 year old, really good quality hardware. Back your claim up. Show me 10 current adverts for people selling 2nd hand Nistunes. And not from bookface, because I won't click on a link from that shithole. My counter claim is that Nistunes trade hands at about the same rate as anything else, and that the market for tunable ECUs for R3x Skylines etc is getting smaller every day, because nearly all of them have already been upgraded to something else, Nistune or otherwise. And as all the flatbrims have drifted modded cars into trees, the surplus of spare ECUs will just continue to grow.

In which case, when was the last time the TB saw any carby cleaner?

IACV dirty/stuck.

Not related. Separate issues. Standard electrical wiring troubleshooting required. Find the power source on the wiring diagram, find the earth, find the switch. Work out where the pixies can't* squeeze through any more. *Or in the case of the reverse switch, that the switch was probably damaged when you yanked on the wiring and it is now stuck on/shorted.

^ NOT this. ^ This. ^ And this.

Any exhaust shop should be able to jam a cat back into it, and stuff a drilled plate between two flanges to quieten it down if they think it will be too loud to pass.

Jesus. I put a Nistune into my Rb20 ECU and then into my Neo ECU and both those engines still have stock injectors. Tune = good. Not bad.

^ This. all of this. Keep the stock injectors in a box for the "can return it to stock but never will because it would be a real backward step" warm and fuzzy feeling if you want.

Are you saying that you've bought one of these motor controllers? Keep in mind what I posted to Johnny. The control input to those controllers is a potentiometer, controlling the pulse widthe coming out of the onboard pulse generator. You don't need that part of it. You need the PWM output from the ECU to drive the output stage of the motor controller directly. If they don't provide you with an easy way to interface with that (and disable the onboard pulse generator) you're going to have trouble using it.

What sort of heatsinking do you have on the SSR? It should be bolted to something reasonably big and steel/alloy just based on what the datasheet says.

The fact that the low lift flow increase is quite good (better than the high lift for the exhausts really) tends to suggest that the seats are contributing to the improvement. Of course, bowl shaping and a few other adjustments to guides and stuff also work on the low lift flow. It's impossible to separate unless someone puts a lot of time and money into it.

I cannot imagine spending $2k just to get rid of the AFM, when the AFM (done right) is not really a problem. Would have to have many more and better reasons on top of getting rid of the AFM to drive me to spend the money. Having said that, I would suggest; The cheapy Wolf3D that slap is selling would be good enough to do the job. They might be a shitty old thing, but you only need a shitty old thing to run an RB25. The Haltech plug and play, despite being superceded by the Elites, is anything but "outdated". It is 20+ years newer than the R33's ECU! F-CON just seems like a bad idea everywhere except right next to the HKS factory in Japan. Anything Power-FC just seems like a super bad idea if you have to exchange money to get it. If you already have one, then just do the R35 AFM conversion and be done with the whole question.

No, I have no problem with PWMing the pump. It's just the PWM motor controllers usually use big transistors as the switching units, without the optocouplers and other shenanigans that go into making an SSR. SSRs are black boxes, but they shouldn't just be treated as black boxes when you push them outside of their design intent. Fuel Lab, etc, pump controllers would just be a normal MOSFET switched PWM circuit. I'm sure you could find something workable on the net with some searching. You don't need a PWM circuit that generates it's own pulses and has a pot or anything else to adjust the PW. You only need the back half of the circuit that takes the pulses into the input of the big switch and lets the angry pixies flow. The main difference is that the PWM input and the main switched circuit end up having to share some things (like, at the very least, the earth side, I'm guessing) because the circuit would not be completely decoupled the way that and SSR does for you.

If they've angled the BOV return towards the comp inlet properly there's no real reason why it should be significantly noisier than the stocker. The BOV noise is really generated at the BOB itself, not where it exits into the inlet pipe. Hard inlet pipese have a reputation (and a reality) of making the turbo spool/induction noise harder and louder, but I've never heard anyone claim it should make the BOV noise louder. And, ultimately.....who cares? If you want a loud BOV, then get a hybrid one and vent some.