GTSBoy

I've quoted the first keyword. I've also quoted the next key words. What exactly is a full tank. Dead dry? Sounds empty when you tap it? Scary low on the gauge? On the E?

For example. My bro-in-law's shop (sorry, wrong state) has done this job so many times that they don't even need wiring diagrams. It's all firmly fixed in brain.

OP, I see your other thread asking to buy stock cams. If you don't have any stock cams and therefore have to pay for them.....why would you do so? Just buy some nice Camtech or other decent Aussie cams that a bit milder than what you have? There are great options available that will be really responsive, and 10x better than the stockers. Not least because you will be surrendering a LOT of lift going back to the baby stockers.

No, what I'm saying is if you do everything else properly, then you don't need a head drain bodged onto the back of the head.

And ref the root cause - probably ground the drive off the end of the cam, by the looks of all them chips in there.

have you even read the oil control thread?

Yes, because there are no codes ending in zero.....

No-one in Australia had heard of JRZs until this thread, so I wouldn't be holding your breath. Do JRZ do a more street friendly top for these things?

So they're busy. Ask them when they can fit it into their schedule?

Smaller mufflers. Don't talk about km per tank. Work it out properly in L/100km, or any other units of volume and distance, so the numbers actually have basis in fact.

Cefiro is S chassis at the front end.

The head drain probably only has benefit to fast drag cars. Otherwise it is only extra open area to permit air flow up from the sump into the top covers. And that's what the extra fittings into the sump do also (if plumbed to the top of the engine via a catch can).

There is no ECU code 20 for GTRs, unless they've added some secret sauce to the R34 that wasn't in the earlier ones. (although 21 is the ignition circuit.....you sure you got 20 and not 21?) A multimeter cannot be substituted for an oscilloscope unless you're looking for a steady voltage. They are not fast enough to see brief signals. I would say the ADIC is responsible. You'd best base your research around it.

The only obvious answer to "it's just for looks" is to not bother to hook them up to anything except the lighting circuit. If you have to hook the oil pressure gauge up....then a sandwich plate is the only option that makes sense. And obviously the boost gauge is driven the boost sensor. The only question is....will hooking two gauges up to the same sensor cause them both to read wrong? Try it and let us know? But wait! How will you know? You could always put in a redundant second boost sensor to go with your redundant second gauge. Do

Are so many people watching this auction to see if anyone is stupid enough to buy it? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GARRETT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-BOLT-ON-TURBOCHARGER-TURBO-350HP-RB20-RB25/120881490601?hash=item1c25192aa9:g:2UAAAOxyNDxRYV5C

R32 GTR torque gauge is in the main cluster, displacing the GTSt's boost gauge to the triple cluster in the console. So, not pointless, but stupid, because why have 2x Nissan boost gauges (the original in the dash and the GTR one in the console) when you can have a better boost gauge? And while doing what everyone else has recommended (aftermarket gauges), why not put in something useful? Like EGT? Who the hell needs a bloody voltmeter?

https://justjap.com/jjr-side-skirts-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-n1-style.html ?

Booster can work and still leak. Or vice versa. There's no upgrade and no need for an upgrade. You can take them to a (proper) brake shop and get them rebuilt for not much.

This might be a silly question (as I don't know these motors at all), but in your chain side-by-side photo, you have 2 pink marks on the top (new?) chain lined up with 2 orange marks on the other chain. I can see the 3rd mark on the top chain is orange. So whilst all 3 marks on the bottom chain are orange, is there any possibility that you're lining up the wrong marks there? With the silly question out of the way - I note that the cam gears have slotted holes. Would these be to provide you with the 1/2 a tooth's worth of adjustment to account for chain stretch?

Sorry, I meant to specify "R32 GTSt" The R32 GTR manual also covers a lot of RB20DET stuff (wiring, etc) because it also covers the GTS4.

No. The pedal actuating rod has to pass through the diaphragm. They can leak there. Make a lot of whooshing noises. Only leaks when you stroke it.** **not the thing you're thinking of.

But what's different? I've not seen any obvious differences. There's no structural difference inside the boots except for the presence of the ATESSA equipment.

There isn't really an R32 workshop manual. What is true for the GTR diff is essentially true for the GTSt diff, when it comes to how to disassemble, reassemble and the specs for the crush tube in the pinion and side clearances and so on.

I mean runner lengths as anything that you can optimise in terms of matching the lengths or trying to make them the "right" length. I otherwise concur (and have already said so) that shorter is better. I think the energy lost from long pipes is part of it, but I think the bloody torturous path from under the motor to the turbine inlet has got to be at least as significant. The funky exhaust pulse pattern can't help either. On the subject of the T1 dampener - I'm not knocking them at all. I use snubbers like that on industrial sensing applications** to knock the spikes out of pressure signals. Actually, I'm only assuming that they are like what I use, which are mostly just sintered metal inside. The T1 snubbers could be a little more sophisticated, ref their claims of temperature reduction, etc. Given where they install them (on the RB38 head) - they're not actually in a "bad" physical situation. As to the delay - any device which is capable of providing the required smoothing will cause a similar delay. Doesn't matter if physical or electronic. **Like low pressure switches on gas valve trains, where opening the safety shutoff valves to the burner can cause the gas pressure to drop below the switch point briefly. The snubber can prevent unwanted trips.