GTSBoy

Always call a Jack a Jack. Always call a spade a spade. But always call a whore a lady, because their lives are hard enough as it is.

That would be A-LSD, not V. But yes. Notwithstanding that....the side flanges are odd. Did the active diff cars have different axles in some way?

This wasn't a question. It was a statement. A bold statement.

Um.....I wouldn't count on it. That diff on the left is a weird looking thing. It has a pipe across the top like a V-spec diff, and it does not have normal 5 bolt axle flanges. I'm not even sure that it is therefore the actual diff from an R33. What is the wiring connector on the top above the RHS axle flange? On the crossover pipe. Is it some sort of Z chassis diff? An R230? Might explain the apparent larger size. If it is an R230, then the CW&P will not just swap over. Otherwise, what Duncan said is true of R33 and S14/5 diffs.

Haha. I even read it as if you'd written it correctly!

Could still be R32 originally, but it's not as if it matters.

It should hold at around 1100 rpm under those circumstances, so it is doing mostly the right thing, just a bit too high. I would suggest that you have an air leak somewhere and the idle is simply too high and the ECU is dropping timing (at proper, stationary idle) to get the revs down - but it can't/won't do that with a non-zero speed signal. You could put it on the dyno and put a Consult unit or other scan tool on the ECU and see what the timing is in the ECU while it coasts down, then at a stationary idle. I wouldn't be surprised if it was 0-5° stationary.

No, not the cam cover. The coil cover. The badge on the coil cover says "hotwires" It is shaped to go with the V-Cam doodat, but that may just be coincidence, because the oil cap would need the extra clearance too. It appears to be a hi-rise coil cover with a little ram air vent (that wouldn't actually do f**k all!). viz https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/416177-hotwire-rb26dett-ignition-system-coilpack-cover.html

You can lead a whore to culture, but you can't make her think.

Yeah, I wasn't even going to go there!

Wires direct from head unit to the speakers? Couldn't be that easy.

Hmmm. Hydrophilic. Hydraulic. They were just red top NICS RB20s.

On the subject of the gearbox. 33 & 34 25 boxes are essentially the same thing but the pull clutch on the 34 box is more annoying (less choices) than the push. If you have the choice of a good 33 box, probably the wisest choice. Mind you, if starting from scratch and having to buy - the argument for a brand new box is strong.

Always easier to use the correct loom to suit the engine and the correct type of ECU (ie, RB26 both) and make the changes to the engine loom where it interfaces with the car, than it is to bastardise a loom and use the wrong sort of ECU, etc etc. You can do it any which way. But some don't make as much sense. The weird solutions usually come about because somebody already has X and is too tight or too lazy to do it properly.

Great. and have you remembered that we have all told you that it is very unlikely that a Neo turbo auto ECU will drive your auto? Because the auto is wired up to your old TCU and the new TCU is in the ECU and there shouldn't be any magic that would make one think it is the other? Aaaaaand - given that you heard about the secret squirrel trick on these forums referring to other posts on these forums.....why don't you keep searching until you find it yourself?

This is an Impul ECU for a manual turbo car? Are you going to be happy driving around in 3rd gear only?

I have an R32, so I have an R32 AC control unit, which we can see from the wiring diagrams above does things a little differently to the R33 one. I have an R34 ECU, so the pins are all different to both of the above. And, getting the AC to work after the engine transplant was a major exercise. We had to do some things with relays and other tricks with the pressure switch. So my car is not able to serve as an example that I can measure stuff off for you. Further to that, You should put a multi-meter onto the terminals in question and determine if they have 12V or ground on them, before trying to put any 12v or ground of your own onto them. If you put raw 12v onto a terminal which is continuous to ground, you are making a high current short circuit and can fry shit. Similarly, if you simply ground a pin with 12V on it, you can be making a short that will burn shit up. You can also use a test light to see what's what on those terminals. Close examination of the wiring diagrams can also inform you of which way the ECU terminals are most likely to work. They USUALLY act as the earth end of a switching circuit. But some do not (like some of the fuel pump outputs.)

Like one wire running alongside the other in the same loom. No other relationship.

Takes an hour.

There are wires that run from the console back to the amp. These can be made to connect to speakers instead. But FWIW, just get the seats out of the car and put some new speaker cable in.

Paul, I think you missed this important part. 25L would be nice. 28L would be getting bad. 32L is pretty gross.

O2 sensor likely dead.

In the RB20DET engine loom the O2 sensor wiring runs with the PS switch wiring. I had the O2 sensor cause the wire to burn, which damaged the PS wire which left me with heavy steering. They are not related electrically in any way except for the fact that they run side by side.

Does not work for RB20DET and is not necessary. The RB20DET does not use the TPS potentiometer to determine closed throttle position. There is a switch. You can manually adjust the TPS position so that the switch actuates at the slightest opening of the throttle. Do that and you are gold. If you lean over the engine and open the throttle, you will hear the injectors double pulse. That's the ECU's response to seeing the TPS come off the switch. You want to hear that at the tiniest movement. Tiny.

This from the R32GTR service manual which is fairly freely downloadable from the net. (and I actually copied and pasted from a thread that was last active on these forums about 3 hours ago.)