GTSBoy

The voltage transmitted from the speedo head to the ECU is a 0-5v square wave. It is PWM, so the pulses change width according to speed. Trying to measure that properly with a DMM is not the best idea. An oscilloscope is the best bet. Anyway, if you have a constant 5V there it suggests that the speedo head is not doing what it is supposed to. It's unlikely to be the sensor. If you connect a mutlimeter on AC volts setting to the sensor and drive, you should see a 0.6v to 1v sort of reading. And obviously any of the connectors in the circuits could be janky.

Yes.

Put a scan tool on it, interrogate the ABS CU to find out what it is upset about, and start with fixing those things. More than likely, because ATESSA, HICAS, TCS and ABS are all mixed up together, crippling one of them can make all of them go sad. (yes, I know you don't have HICAS or TS, but you get the point, right?)

More than likely it's the ECCS relay, next to the ECU.

Just the difference between closet and out perhaps.

Turbo timer is the other possibility.

You won't find very many in Oz. They didn't fit any of the Venn diagram overlap between the import rules and desirability. You'd probably be best off asking Import Monster or similar to get you something out of Japan.

Well. That answers that question then. It is possible to look gay and like a douche at the same time.

I cannot quite believe the things we are asked to do from bloody photos! How are we supposed to know what some retard did on your car years ago?

I am having a very hard time working out how this is possible. 4th gear on same selector fork as 3rd gear. Right? The user can change from 3rd into 4th. Right? Presumably, can change out of 4th and back into 3rd, right? Or even go down to 1st or 2nd? Right? So, gearbox is acting perfectly in the lower 4 gears. Right? So, I posit to you, that if you try to change to 5th, you move the selector out of 4th.....it should be in bloody neutral. Not 4th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The shenanigans going on inside this box would appear to be larger than "staying in 4th when trying to change to 5th", because that doesn't sound possible.

Et's a warrunt of futniss.

No! The rule against 3 spokes is universal!

Cranks are same. Spigot bush pressed in the back of it is different for auto/man. I'm not absolutely sure with RB25s, but at least with R32 RB20s, the autos ran at 20° idle timing and the manuals at 15°. This needs to be set correctly with a timing light (obviously enough) and is something that should be carefully checked if doing a swap such as you're describing, in case you end up with a manual ECU thinking it is set at 15° when the CAS is set to give 20° and the extra 5° turns up in the timing at peak torque.

Been the same gearbox even with the RB20 in front of it in the R32 GTS4. It's the ATESSA that's different between GTRs and the light duty versions.

Well, the OP asked about wheels for a SILVER car, so I went with black, which is the best option for white or silver cars. Beyond that, those wheels above are too fru-fru for me. What is with that extra ring of material joining the spokes? As a 12 spoke without that ring....they'd be OK.

Squirt it with a high pressure hose in various places and see if it gets wet?

This is the test.

Attempts to put 5 speed auto into 4 speed auto car are going to end in WTF threads.

I'm pretty sure one is H1 and the other is H3.

Pressure leak. Either exhaust (turbo gasket, etc) or boost. Seek, and ye shall find.

Ah, yes, good point.

The ignitor is 6 transistors. The inputs to it are 1x main earth (which, confusingly, lives on the same side as the outputs to the coils) and 6x trigger wires coming from the ECU. When the ECU decides it wants to fire a coil, it pulls its output low, which switches off the transistor which removes the charging power from the coil which makes the coil discharge. It's not something that makes a lot of sense to go measuring resistances on. The test of it's function is to manually power the inputs and see what happens to the outputs. With neither plug connected, but an earth made to pin 7 on the output side, putting power on any input should make the corresponding transistor switch on, and therefore the corresponding output should have conductivity to earth. If you look at the wiring diagram you can easily work out where the power comes from. Power to run the coil side is connected directly to the coils, and it is this power that flows through the activated transistors to earth on the output side of the ignitor). Power to "switch on" the transistors comes from the ECU and flows to the same earth on pin 7.

Wassat? f**k up the operation of AFM load sensing? Check!

There's almost no differences in the dirty stuff down low (driveshafts, etc). Is it an auto or manual? If auto, there's possibly a whole range of things that will leap up to bite you on the arse. I think the auto TCU is a separate box on the NAs, whereas it is integrated in the ECU on the turbos. Do not put the DET ECU into it and attempt to hook it up to the old loom. Pull the NA engine look out all the way from the ECU and replace with the DET engine loom.