GTSBoy

That's not a thing. Stock WG spring on RB25 is 5 psi, lifted to 7 by the bleed solenoid.

Work with the wiring diagram. Don't fly blind or you will let the smoke out.

Ah, I didn't catch the 3 alternators bit..... Means broken wire somewhere.

You don't need any measurements. Just set string lines up next to the car, parallel to the car and each other. Set the wheel straight ahead. Set the tie rod lengths so that the wheels are parallel to the string lines, then wind them out a little bit to get some toe-in. There are tutorials all over the place on how to do this stuff.

The light is part of a circuit through the alternator to provide the exciter current to get the alternator going. If the globe is good and the wiring is good.....then that kinda leaves the alternator as being bad, doesn't it? Logic?

When the AFM is unplugged the ECU drops back to some default limp settings that will get it past troublesome shit like f**koff big vacuum leaks.

Just set up some string lines and do it that way.

And just for completeness and correctness, to ensure that my small elements of misinformation above are covered over - the RB25DET uses the same type of separate air regulator that provides the cold start idle up as appeared on the RB20 and 26. It looks like this So, the purple plug on the Rb25 IACV is not for a heater, it's definitely for the air-con idle up. The heater connection is on the air reg pictured above. The Neo does away with the air reg as a separate thing and puts it into the IACV with water heating, as I said before. There is no air-con idle up as a separate thing either. It's just done through the IACV (as far as I can tell).

Although, having said the above, and then having done 3 seconds of googling because I don't actually care about R33 IACVs enough....I think the purple one may be a simple on/off solenoid for air-con idle-up. Look at the wiring diagram to see what is true! From one of the many previous times that this has been discussed.

Yuh, my point was that there are two plugs, and one is clearly able to be worked out that it drives the stepper motor valve, and the other is easily seen to not be connected to the stepper motor valve and therefore must run the heater. It's not like it's a black box with no details on it. I will also remind you that I said that if you don't run the heater on either IACV (either by putting coolant through the Neo one, or hooking up the heater on the vanilla one) then the cold start valve will stay wide open in both of them and give you a very high idle that the stepper motor part of the IACV will not be able to close down enough to get under control. If you look in Nistune**, when the engine is warm and the cold start idle up valve is heated closed, the ECU should report the number of "steps" that the IACV is open and you really don't want that to go below about 30. It will do so if it is trying to fight the cold start valve. **I'm not suggesting that you go and look in Nistune, just a general "you" to describe the process. Here is a picture of an R33 IACV. Which connector do you think is wired to the stepper valve? Which one do you think might simply be a heater?

It's low. Not critically low, but very low compared to where it should be. But, as I always say to people.....do you trust the compression tester?

The RB30 block is taller (than smaller RBs) and not particularly well braced in the casting (like all RBs). That makes it a little more prone to deflections. From what I can gather, while the stock girdle, when run with a grout fill, is probably good enough at the power levels you're talking about, it is relatively cheap insurance to throw some more money at it to stop it flinging all your expensive internals all over the engine bay. Face it - 30 blocks are all vintage items now and you can either argue that the ones that are left are the survivors or you can argue that they're all going to be aging out. It is a crap shoot and you can only ever run the experiment on a given block the once.

Partial grout fill would be assumed, I would have thought!

Yes, as I said above, the NA RB25 box is physically the same thing as the RB20DET box. Slightly different ratios. All else same. I'm not expert on S13s, but I can't imagine that you will. There is very little difference between S13 and R32 and the big box goes into R32 no problem and thousands of people have put the big box into S chassis cars, and I've not heard anyone complain of even needing to clearance with a hammer. Big box all the way. The little boxes don't like lots of torque and you are going to be running at the bottom end of the range where they just have a short life. Which is no fun.

Ouch. That sort of software "bug" is an absolute bastard to plan for in the hardware and software specification stage and in the programming/testing phase. There are so many possible random such things that could go wrong, it would be hard to imagine them all. I guess Haltech could take a leaf from the designers of safety critical systems and just make sure that all outputs are off (assumed to be the safe state) at all times when not required - which would be especially true of those edge cases where the ECU program is not actually in charge, ie during flashing. Just needs one or two interlocks to be put in place. It's surprising that they can fix it just with a firmware update though - so maybe they have already had the physical side of it in place in the original design, older firmwares were doing it properly and somewhere along the way the software side of it got lost or bugged out.

Does it have stock injectors? If they are much bigger than stock, then starts/runs might be a fantasy.

Just take it to an auto-electrician. He will find your broken/shorted wire in about 30 minutes and you will be fixed.

RB25DET boxes are physically huge. Basically the same length as RB20DET & RB25DE, but seemingly twice as fat and heavy. You would know if you had a 25DET box there. Here's an RB20DET box. The RB25DE box is basically the same. Does not look different. Here's an RB25DET box. Note how bloody huge it is. The bellhousing barely tapers to the body! Here's an S14 SR20DET box. You can see it's clearly not the same (in the rear housing) as the RB20DET box.

If I have to google a picture of the R33 IACV so I can look at it and work out, FROM A PICTURE, which plug is which, I'm going to scream. One of them will clearly look like it connects to the bloody valve, and one of them won't.

In all seriousness, the harder rubber bushes are superior to life with poly bushes. The level of compliance is still nice and low, like poly, but they don't end up squeaking. Not that all poly bushes do, but it is a serious risk (serious for those that can't stand it!)

The Neo IACV has water through it to provide the heat to close the wax pellet for the fast/cold idle up. The R33 one is heated electrically. All you have to do is not hook up the plug that is connected to the heater and just hook up the plug that is obviously connected to the valve itself. But there's a problem. If you don't heat these things, you will end up with cold fast idle all the time, because the cold idle bypass is quite large and you should not drive the IACV as closed as you need to to beat that.

Download the R32 GTR service manual. Plenty of line diagrams in there. There have even been recent posting on these forums on the topic.

It's a cover plate for the wiring, not a "bar", as such. Best to leave it there. If you need clearance at the ends of it for speaker grilles, feel free to trim some metal off it.

Never relocate wiring from in the engine bay to near the wheels unless you are going to lose points for it in a dolphin waxing exhibition. Why make them more prone to damage from road thrown debris? Why make them harder to access? Oil cooler on the LHS is fine. As to adjustable arms. Cheaper is not a solid reason to buy these things. There are many many different arms available. The cheap ones are bulk Chinese manufacture and may be suspect in terms of overall quality. Of course, they could be fine - but you won't know until it breaks and puts you into a truck. The spherical joints on the cheap ones simply cannot be high quality, that's for sure. The really expensive brand name ones are usually top quality, but charging more than they are really worth. In the middle, you get brands like Hardrace, that are definitely good. I have them on the rear with the hardened rubber bushes (rather than spherical joints).

Get wiring diagram and multimeter and start fault finding. Otherwise, take it to an auto-electrician