GTSBoy

Sorry, I thought I had a fused relay.

Nup, because the exhaust is on the wrong side on Toyo motors and that makes life hard.

104 is correct. It's not hard to drag a cable through the ECU loom's gland in the corner of the firewall. Just need to remove as much as you can to make it possible to poke a stiff lead wire through alongside the loom and then tape on and pull back. This is how I have all the extra wiring for my boost control solenoid, exhaust pyro, etc coming through there (R32 with Neo also).

Still won't be as bad as V720 though!

I'd say he's got bigger problems than the blend door though....

Why f**k about? There are whole Morimoto (and other) HID transplants you can do. Well documented. 9000% better than leaving any of the original shit in there.

Yes. But shit fan or not, it still shouldn't overheat while just driving around. Low power + moving car should be enough air through the radiator. Also shit radiator.

It's actually really difficult to do this legally. Precious few aftermarket rails are legal without being engineered. Same with seats. The cheapy eBay Brides and other similar seats that claim to be "ADR" approved are frequently the shittest quality, so the whole ADR thing must be a massive lie with them. Probably the only sure fire way would be to enquire of an engineer in your state about what's required. I'd say that going to a motor trimmer and getting Recaros + rails (for lots lotsa $$) would have to include whatever engineering signoff was needed. You could try asking them.

Parcel shelf cannot be removed without removing rear seat. Rear seat takes 3 minutes to remove.

This is a Nissan Skyline forum based in Australia. Not liking your chances that much. But, welcome anyway.

You could try to work out what size yours need and compare with what size these universal ones claim to be and/or search fleabay for the actual size you need, if it turns out to be different, which would surprise me no end.

Wot? Like this?

So what was wrong with the old one?

They're holding the AFM to the airbox. Seeing as you've loosened the hose clamp, if you want to slip the AFM off the inlet pipe, to make it easier to work on the AFM to airbox on the bench/lap/whatever, then just pulling the AFM out of the hose would be a good start.

Spray some window cleaner or similar at the hose joint and wiggle.

Probably goes around to the Consult port, no?

It's the headlight switch on the instrument binnacle. Dismantle, clean contacts.

That's why I said $1000 and not $2000! :p

Of course it does. All these cars had them fitted when they were complied. There is no way it should have been complied in the first place if it didn't.

Isn't this what wreckers are for? There would have to be 15000 of these lying around on workshop floors here in Australia. And no, you probably can't buy new replacement parts for the resistor coil in it. But here's the thing - do you know anyone who understands electrical stuff and can have a look at it to see why it's reading low ohms? It might just need a tweak.

Yup, pay someone for $1000 detail effort on $2.50 paint condition, to get it up to $3.50 paint condition. Sounds like a good idea....not. She's f**ked proper and there's really no point in talking about how to recover it.

Didn't bleed the cooling system properly. No need to consider any other option.

The level sender is a variable resistor that is wiped up and down by the float arm. If it is reading a fixed resistance regardless of where the arm is, then either it is; Shorted close to one end of the winding, Really dirty in some way (although this usually results in high resistance, not low), Wiper broken off the arm so it is stuck in the one position, Any of a variety of other combinations of the above or something outright surprising. Play with it. Work out what it is doing wrong.

NA Skylines are fine. The engines just need to be >5L though.