GTSBoy

Yes, the relay could have a fault. But I didn't say both switches would be dead. It only takes one dead to kill it. Usually the one that gets the most use, but could be either. And I wasn't recommending new switches. Take them apart and see what condition they're in.

Isn't it far more likely that the up contact on the switch is faulty? Dirty/burnt/broken off/etc? The left-right switches are connected. Look at the wiring diagram to see how. I think if one is dead, it can take down both.

Do you know that that offset will fit? And what is the gearing (and therefore speedo) change from such high profile tyres on such large diameter rims, compared to stock?

eBay.

Tell 'em the price, son.

No.....go back and read what I said. I find it very difficult to believe that your results are consistent. Try again before making any decisions. Also, a leakdown test is more informative than simple compression testing.

Bypass knock sensor with (500k resistor - I think. Look it up, it's findable). If the knock sensor is crook and it's running on the knock map, it will feel doughy. This should make it feel better. Then you just buy a new one.

No. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive it under load. This is proper diagnosis, not half-baled diagnosis. If the pressure doesn't do what it is supposed to do, then you blame the pump. Your reg is very unlikely to be crook.

R32 ECU diagnostic can be triggered with a screwdriver or a paper clip. Read all about it. It will be a boost leak, or a dying fuel pump as #1 suspects. After that, it is absolutely everything else in the engine bay. all the usual suspects. read all about it.

Now you shouldn't trust your technique. There's no way that it would have been ~110 before with a dud tester and now gone down to 90.

If so, then f**k!

Trusting a never-used-before-no-comparative-reference compression tester to give you numerically accurate values is a strong move. See above advice.

That's a hard no. Unless the PFC is tuned for exactly the same setup you have (and, how many other people would you expect to put a PFC on a stock motor???), it will not run it properly. Will need a tune. Does not need additional sensors - it is, by definition, a plug in replacement ECU. But not a "plug in a secondhand tuned for something else" replacement. It will not be useful for a Neo. No, this is clearly an electrical problem. You will have one of the thousand possible things that can go wrong naturally (from shit breaking, wearing out, vibrating loose, etc) or from uncle f**kthumbs who played with the wiring before. Break out the wiring diagrams and your multimeter and go fault find it and fix it. And no, none of us will be able to guess how and why it is doing it.

Trailer to dyno.

You're not going to wear out the thrust in that time with that usage. It was probably put back together without even checking it.

They make diagnostic code readers for a reason.

Welcome Brian, eh. White 17" Enkei RPF1s. You'll have to paint them white though. I like original R32 GTR wheels, but they do look a little small these days, and they are too dark for a gunmetal car. I have black RPF1s on a white 32. The colour of your car makes it possible to throw CF pieces on without it looking odd. Nismo front and rear top lips. Front chin lip. Whole rear wing if you're felling baller. Sideskirts if you're going crazy. MCA coilovers if you're willing to buy from Oz. Otherwise whatever the equivalent top end stuff from your side of the pond. 324mm Brembos, or 330mm Stoptech or similar. Helical diffs front and rear. Oh, and I forgot ATESSA controller. Street weapon.

It's not the trim. The clue is in the name. Trim is trim, not a water seal. It will be the rear window seal or the boot seal (if it's not actually rust, or a broken seal in the welding seam sealer).

If there is nothing reliable out there for PowerFC directly, you may be able to synthesise something from Nistune's data. They have curves for the R35 card and you can compare that to the Z32 curve in Nistune and then use that to build an R35 curve from the PowerFC Z32 curve. ie, the relationship of one to the other should be the same for each ECU.

A master cylinder used to be leaking.

So, when you put 12v on it, does it change state?

That does not look to me like the correct solenoid for a Blitz Dual SBC. That looks a lot like the single Blitz solenoid. "Powered" means "when you put 12V onto the terminals and power it". "Unpowered" means.....you guessed it.... Anyway, you can google up the connection diagrams for these things and see how they are supposed to be plumbed up. Better you doing it than me.

No way to tell from that description. Draw a diagram. Clearly label the ports on the solenoid, and mark which are connected when it is unpowered and which are connected when it is powered. Dust shouldn't affect it. Any dust that can settle should blow off pretty quick. The correct cleaner for AFMs is CO contact cleaner or the dedicated spray stuff for AFMs.

Stock wastegate spring pressure is 5 psi. That is very close to 0.38 bar. I would suggest that your boost control solenoid is not functioning. This could be because it is stuck, or because the PowerFC has lost its mind after being left for 2 years (possible, but it really shouldn't happen). Or it might be a plumbing problem. If the PowerFC has lost its mind, then it could explain everything.

eBay.