GTSBoy

Why not take it out, look at it and work out which Bosch or Walbro is the most suitable and just go with that?

If it's misfiring at 5 psi or so, then it is weak ignition. Your coils are the most likely culprits there. The boost control issue is not something that will be easy to diagnose across the 'net. Especially if you have had it apart lots. It will be something weird.

You broke something. Take it apart and fix it.

I have no idea where the fuse is on V series cars. but it won't likely be that, because it won't likely be a single fuse just for that purpose. If it was blown, other things would not be working.

You could do it. Jack the car up and see if the switch goes open-closed-open as you go N-R-N (with a multimeter, of course). And then if you find it's broken, rip it out and replace it. But otherwise, if you're not comfortable, yes, mechanic.

Well, teeing the boost sense line from the fuel pressure regulator is a bad idea anyway, because hacking into that line exposes it to more risk of accidentally opening up, which will fry the engine (due to lack of fuel) when under boost. It is also a bad idea to run the boost sense line from the plenum chamber anyway. It should not be sensed from downstream of the throttle. You should get the boost source from the turbo outlet If there is a nipple there, which there usually isn't on R33s) or on the turbo outlet pipe.

Yes there is a fuse. It will be the switch on the side of the gearbox/transmission that has failed though.

Find out if it is in the CV joint or in the spline in the hub. Fix whichever is worn.

You can trigger the starter motor with a 50c piece. Just have to short the start terminal onto the big battery terminal. No tricky electronicery required.

A stock one. Tune for anything else.

Yeah, but that's only true for stock type ECUs. The Nissan ECu seems to be able to punch through the jittery noise of the stock CAS at high rpm much better than all other ECUs. All the aftermarket ECUs just suck compared to the factory ECU, perhaps with the PowerFc being halfway between (as I suspect the PFC as being based on a Hitachi ECU anyway). But for anything where there is serious risk of timing jitter killing the engin at high rpm and loads (ie, any serious build), the factory CAS sucks balls and should be replaced with a proper trigger system - which includes a new cam sensor.

I'd guess you'd probably put 12V on the ACC also, but it probably won't change the result. I think that there will be at least some data signal pulse from one of the vehicle's computers to tell it what to do. Your best bet will be to make up a patch loom to plug into the car side of the wiring and the MFD so you can bring it out a few metres.

You'd better buy a replacement exhaust cam toot sweet.

And......how do you find out? I'd start with the EMAP measurement.

Use a 500mm long piece of garden hose as a stethoscope to find the source of the noise. It's fairly easy to work out whether it's high or low, front or rear of engine. Well, yes, obviously. But be aware that if the VVEL mechanism is f**ked, it could still make noise whether it is activated by the solenoid or not. The solenoid just determines whether it sees oil pressure to make it rotate, or not. Rod end? As in piston pin end? As little as $2k, to pull the engine out and do as little work as possible to replace just one noisy part. A rod bearing.....same sort of money. But really, if there is that much wear on one thing to make it noisy, it's fair to bet that there will be a lot of wear elsewhere and you would feel like a complete chump putting such an engine back together. In which case, the work could be just bottom end parts, or machining of the block also, or a full recon. Anywhere from that $2k absolute cheapest case up to maybe $6k. Could easily get more than that if you take the opportunity to do fun stuff. But I would suggest there is little to be gained from getting carried away in a V36.

Drill & tap a sense port for a boost gauge on the ex manifold and find out?

On any given engine, with the turbo matched properly to provide the same maximum power, that simply cannot be true any more. The EFRs are ALL about response. The G series Garretts have smaller wheels for the same flow than any of those previous gen GTs. The GT3582R may well be the fastest spooling of the old tech turbos, but that don't mean a thing when new tech comes along.

I would recommend only doing things once. Starting with AFMs and then redoing everything to suit MAP is wasted time and effort, and money. Sell the AFM cards and invest in a MAP sensor.

^ This. There is not really an "injector relay". The ECCS relay powers up the ECU. It's not a simple thing though, because there are feedback loops and delays etc. You need to study the wiring diagram and use a multimeter to probe the various lines as you turn the key on, and off (and wait for 30 sec for the relay to time out!) and so on, to understand how it works.

Would that not be to connect the correct wire from the ECU to the correct terminal on the new plug that you buy to go with the meter? The wiring diagrams are all easily findable.

Z32 are definitely compatible with R32. I take it that they have the ABS rings & shiz that you need?

I was just schmoozing through the GK-Tech catalogue and see that their fabricated R chassis front knuckles come in specific R32 and R33/4 versions. I don't know exactly what the difference is - but it would suggest that stock R33 probably won't just fall onto an R32. You'll either not win at all, or have to swap a number of other things.

They're up between the tank and the subframe. They definitely will be old and cracked. I replaced mine years ago because it started smelling & dripping.

The dashboard attachment to the firewall can move a little and squeak/rattle. Any and all of the HVAC ductwork can get dislodged and rattle. Any fool how has just thrown wiring up under the dash without securing it (stereo, gauges, etc) will cause rattles. The front suspension bushes can make noise that sounds like it's coming from under the dash (because it's effectively all the same steelwork). The list goes on and on. And R34 are at least as well built as R32, and both are only as well built as any other mass produced Jap car from the era - which is good but not great.

Places like Amayama tell you what you need to know https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/hcr32/3874-rb20dt/engine/130/13028M https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/ecr33/3915-rb25det/engine/130/13028M https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/bnr32/3885-rb26dett/engine/130/13028M