GTSBoy

Put more fuel in it and just run it. Water injection (deliberate) is a thing. It won't cause any harm.

Well, it's not stock. But Why not fix it instead of removing it? An alarm on an R34 GTR seems like a f**kING GOOD IDEA.

Also depends on how big the cams are. The bigger the cam, the less you can adjust it before it attempts to weld bits together.

If you replaced the coils and now it still misses then the most likely ignition cause is the ignitor. There's various other things like worn CAS bearings, dirty plug contacts on CAS and AFM and so on that can also start to play up only when you get it hot enough. But the ignitor is the most likely.

Yuh, looks like it goes through pin 6. I know nothing about Links. Fair to assume they don't care about the niceties of last ditch engine cooling, in favour of more injectors!

Rocker arm? I take it that this is not an RB engine, right? Either way - don't f**k about. The camshaft comes all the way out.

Here's the whole (R32) ECCS system diagram. I can't see that sensor anywhere. You should comb through it to convince yourself. And continued, ditto And the actual ECU pinout, ditto

Have you got the wiring diagram? I only have the R32 one, which would very likely be the same, but I wouldn't bet on it. I don't have it here and I'm too busy at 17:30 on a Friday to dig through it anyway - End of the week means I have to start doing the work that should have gotten done on Tuesday!

Should turn on the aircon fan when the coolant gets too hot.

If it will drive, drive it to a mechanic and pay them to fix it. If it won't drive, get it towed. It won't be your cam sensor. You have a blown fuse or a broken wire or something has burnt up or somesuch other random electrical failure that can only be diagnosed by poring over the car with a torch, a testlight or multimeter and a working diagnostic computer.

Mothballs man. Dissolve 10 mothballs in 2L of petrol and pour into the tank. Just not in cold weather. Oh, and probably not in your car. And maybe not even in your lawnmower.

You don't need to read any links. We have all known since the 1990s that Mines ECUs have aggressive timing maps and have lead many people to ping engines to death when running them on anything but the perfect 100 RON fuel that they were tuned for.

For the last time..... RB20 ECU does NOT look at the TPS variable resistor. That is for the auto trans. The ECU only looks at the closed and open throttle position switches.

Yuh, go to the Camtech website and look at the product page. It looks like this.... https://camtechcams.com.au/camshaft-search?c_association[1]=14&c_association[2]=88&c_association[3]=126&c_association[4]=127 And the answer is yes, it will go in without any "head" being done. But you need springs.

Destroy the engine and you will have less money for an ECU. Just sayin'.

Just cut away the extra material on the outside of the bush. I did it on a belt sander.

Check all the coolant and vacuum hoses under/around the inlet manifold and behind the engine. They're all old enough now that there might be some cracking. Check for missing exhaust manifold and turbo-manifold and turbo-dump bolts and nuts. Pressure test the cooling system. That's about all the other easy and worthwhile stuff I can think of for the moment.

The sensors from the small & big boxes don't cross-pollinate. If it's not the right one, send it back. Also, you say that you have a GTST with a DE motor......what gearbox does it have? The original turbo box, or the small NA box?

And in all seriousness, don't buy a Z32 AFM. The card type AFMs are infinitely superior.

Absolutely not. ECU will have no idea what the air flow is if you change the AFM and don't change the voltage to airflow curve in the ECU

Yes, it's a lot of money to throw at a dirty old Skyline. Had I the drug budget, I'd be all over it, because the sound is amazing.

He hehhehheehe

Less adjustment needed than is available for sure. But....on that topic, successful retros of proper HIDs retain the adjustment.

If you advise your insurance company of a modification and that modification is not actually approved by the vehicle standards department, they can still crap on your claim. If you read these clauses in most (if not all) insurance documentation you will see weasel words hidden in there about how the mods have to actually be legal. If I told my insurance company that I'd put a forward facing hornet scoop on my car, over the top of a tunnel rammed carb fed 600 cu.in V8, they'd say, "Thanks for the advice". It would not be any good if I had an accident where I scalped a pedestrian when the throttle cable jammed open in a carpark burnout and put the car into the crowd though. They would be well within their rights to point to the pedestrian maimer on the bonnet covering the non-emissions compliant, 3x too large engine and laugh at me.

The actual truth is that the "illegal" / "unroadworthy" / "unapproved" modification has to contribute to the incident that causes the claim for the company to deny the claim. If the insurance company cannot show that the mod was at least partially responsible for the claim, they cannot deny the claim. That's a pretty low bar though, and one would have to be pretty wary about things that would be very easy for them to make a statement that you couldn't refute. Wheel spacers would be an easy one for them, for example. An illegal, much bigger than permitted, non-engineered engine swap would be something that they would have to have seen a lot of times before and be well prepared with statements about how that could cause just about any incident. I wouldn't ever bet against a motivated insurance company.