GTSBoy

Resoldered the AFM connections under the lid?

Let's just suggest that the differences are insignificant. Just because it has a different part number doesn't mean it's functionally different.

It's fine for that power, but those short split dumps are a big step down on long splits.

There's a difference?

No, the wiring connector or wiring is wonky. Take it apart work out what is going on. Don't ask on the internet why your dashlights are blinking. It's not the sort of thing that can be internet diagnosed.

Take it to a Nissan import experienced mechanic. It has multiple problems, including probably a very large vacuum leak. Internet diagnosis will be hugely annoying and it will turn out to be something completely unexpected.

If the idle is high and can't be controlled down with air, then the ECU should be trying to retard timing. Although, having said that, I don't know how much delta ignition control is done by the RB20 ECU. The 25s do it, just not as sure of the 20. Anyway, this is why it is important for you to work out if the timing marks actually are lined up with TDC properly (not the cam timing marks, the marks on the pulley). The rubber can slip on tired old balancers and the marks can be very wrong. if they are, then what you are doing with your CAS is not based on reality. We can't go about trying to solve really weird shit until we trust the numbers.

No. The idle screw is the gross base adjustment. The IACV is a controlled valve. The ECU controls it to open and close to allow more or less air to idle up or down. If there is no control because it is not doing what it is supposed to be doing, or, if it is closed down as far as it can because there is air coming iin via another pathway, then you are shit out of luck with respect to mechanical idle control. I wasn't talking about your odd 4k engine behaviour. I was clearly talking about idle control still. Go back and read again. If you want to work out how many degrees each mark on the pulley equates to, you just have to measure how far apart they are (dressmaker's tape measure) and compare that to the total circumference of the pulley. If the pulley was 360mm around (to use a nice simple assumption) and the marks were 10mm apart, then that would be 10mm out of 360mm and 360mm is equivalent to 360 degrees. So the 10mm is 10 degrees. If the pulley was 500mm around, then the 10mm would be only 360/500 = ~7°. For the marks to be 10 degrees apart on a 500mm circumference pulley, they'd need to be ~15mm apart. Get the idea?

About $20k for a nice GT-T.

I do not know how many times I have to say it.....RB20 ECUs do not given a flying f**k what the TPS voltage is. That sensor is provided for the benefit of the auto trans TCU only. The ECU only looks at the closed throttle switch. Stop confusalting the RB25 with the 20. If the idle won't come down, it would suggest that there is either a vacuum leak, the IACV is sticky/broken, the AAC is f**ked or you have the main throttle adjusted too far open. The ECU will attempt to rein in a runaway idle speed by delta control on ignition timing, meaning it will retard the timing to try to slow the engine. You should not be trusting the TDC mark on the pulley unless you have mechanically proven to yourself that it hasn't slipped. You need to put the engine on #1 TDC (sparkplug OUT) and see whether TDC actually lines up with the mark. Then you really need to understand the marks and how many degrees they represent. This is easy, as there are only 360 of them and they are spread out evenly around the circumference of the pulley, which is easily worked out from the diameter and a number called pi.

I'm not sure I understand. You've f**ked the thread on a stud, not a bolt. I'm pretty sure that that stud is welded into that bracket and you are not going to gain any more clearance to turn a tap on it removed than you have wit it where it is. The correct fix here would be to remove the whole lot and grind back whatever welds locate that stud (probably on the top side) and get it out and weld in a replacement.

Welcome to the site. I used to spend a bit of time in West Chester. Nice part of the world. Hopefully, when you say "Philadelphia area", you don't mean downtown Philly! cheers

Following the manual tells you exactly what to do. Experience tells you what not to do and what you have to look out for , etc. Experience is usually gained at some cost. Either time, or money, or both.

Are you talking about automatics? What about the TCU? 4 speed TCU won't run the 5 speed.

Well, you could -- provided there were the same number of wires associated with each of the old and the new, which is not to be taken for granted. But on that assumption, yes, perfectly possible, and not particularly easier than just pulling the wires through a firewall opening. You have a couple of easily accessible ones to choose from you know.

GTR stuff won't do it. It's not wider, for a start. GTR suspension is both sufficiently different to make putting it into a RWD R32 a pain, and simultaneously not different enough to make it worthwhile. You'd have to make annoying swaps (the lower forks on GTR dampers are different to the through bolt on GTSt), and the front subframes are completely different, blah blah blah. Look at GK-Tech's catalogue. All their stuff is aimed at drifters (which appears to be aimed at pushing the lower arms out as far as possible in the quest for more camber) and essentially offers you a lot of what you're looking for. Almost none of it is particularly street legal..... You will end up running ~+10 offsets in order to achieve what you want. This is not particularly deep dish. Most GTSt owners would kill to be able to run that sort of offset.

Shouldn't think so. The old gauges are just going to sit there doing nothing? Just pull the new wiring into the cabin.

Fuel pump? Boost leak? AFM health? ECU?

None of those make sense. The only option that makes sense is LS1/2/3. Whatever the largest is that will go in under NCOP. Simply obscene amounts of power made easily and cheaply. Much more compact and light than any of those massive Jap engines. Oh, and manual. Man's engine means man's gearbox. None of that auto weenie transmission stuff.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the way they are wired is not as simple as you might imagine, and it leads to one dead all dead, like old xmas tree lights.

How flared are the arches on the 260RS? That will determine what fits. While the 260 is mechanically a 33GTR, the panels are not the same.....

Yes, the relay could have a fault. But I didn't say both switches would be dead. It only takes one dead to kill it. Usually the one that gets the most use, but could be either. And I wasn't recommending new switches. Take them apart and see what condition they're in.

Isn't it far more likely that the up contact on the switch is faulty? Dirty/burnt/broken off/etc? The left-right switches are connected. Look at the wiring diagram to see how. I think if one is dead, it can take down both.

Do you know that that offset will fit? And what is the gearing (and therefore speedo) change from such high profile tyres on such large diameter rims, compared to stock?

eBay.