Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSBoy

Admin
  • Posts

    18,953
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    308
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. It only takes one proper moron to f**k a car. They are getting on for 30 years old now. I pulled the dents out of mine with a slide hammer and some hand made special tool attachments for it. And it's never given to someone I don't trust to put on a hoist.
  2. The GT3582R is ALSO an old tech turbo. The other options you have been pointed to are mush better.
  3. You can translate that stuff with Google. It's not always perfect (it's not always even good), but it can give you what you need. Same with the manual for the stereo itself, if you can manage to get a Jap version of it.
  4. You didn't lose your Vic license. You were just "banned"** from driving in QLD for the period. **It's arguable that there really was no such ban and/or it was unenforceable. If they don't suspend or cancel your Vic license, you've still got a license. If they couldn't find your Vic license in the first place to stick it to, then you could easily present that license in QLD and they'd be none the wiser. They couldn't tell you that you were driving unlicensed, for example.
  5. No, we're resolutely old school. Apps suck. Mobile version of the website works. Otherwise, G'day back at ya.
  6. But do they make the noise!!!!!???
  7. It's easy to tell. The RB20DEt box is literally half the size of the RB25 and VLT gearbox. The 25DET and VLT box are almost the same thing, but I think the code on the VLT box was MX7. And there's no need to go cutting and shutting the gearbox crossmember. There are 3 (actually 4) labelled A, B & C that all align differently and allow you to put pretty much any box in any chassis, for the most part, so long as you get the right one. And last tip. Don't turn the boost up on the R34. It will wear the little box out quite quickly.
  8. No. There is no way that a burning lubricant can smell like a burning lubricant.
  9. Just drill some holes in a truck turbo.
  10. No. There are defined jacking points under the sills. Any moron in a workshop knows to put the lifting points on a 2 post hoist under these. There are shaped steel and rubber blocks that come with hoists to permit them to fit exactly. Why f**k with 50 years of experience?
  11. Look on Yahoo Japan and use one of the English (or A Euro language able) services in Japan to buy and ship to you.
  12. Have you looked at the RB26 inlet manifold? It comes complete with exactly what you are talking about.
  13. Dunno. I went with a complete non-HICS subframe and therefore used the Nissan arms. I think a decent delete kit would use a spherical joint rather than a poly bush. I'm not sure that you need all that mush precision to set the rear toe. The coarser thread should still enable you to get the measurement you want.
  14. You will make as much as the maximum flow of the turbos can achieve. Look to this thread. The only caveat is if the limits of the R35 injectors (or perhaps the AFMs, depending on what size tubes you have them in) are reached first. I can't be bothered working out if the turbos will run out of puff before the fuel supply does. You can do that. Use the Haltech as first preference. Much better choice, local tuning ability notwithstanding. PowerFC will do the job, but you are just leaving yourself so far in the distant past by going down that route. Also, if you go Haltech, you can drop the AFMs in the bin and put a MAP sensor on, for about 10x easier inlet plumbing etc.
  15. It's also pushing $5k to put the ECU and the display into the car! Nothing like a $200 tablet.
  16. It's a bit of a hassle having to DIY. The Pi option is nice because it is easy to drive a proper screen from it - even a touchscreen. But then you have a Linux (or maybe Android) environment in which you have to cobble together your DAQ and presentation yourself. That's a project for people who can program or people who know how to leverage other people's programming and have no fear of bolting software elements together. An Arduino would be arguably 11ty times easier to grab the analogue signals and do some simple processing. But the presentation side could be a right pain. Big colour LCD screens are not so simple to do with Arduinos. Maybe the compromise is a little from column A and a little from column B. Use an Arduino to grab the data and present it via I2C or some other (likely more interconnect friendly) protocol to a Pi or a tablet. Still have to cobble together the presentation side unless you can impose on one of the dash crowds to come to the party.
  17. I think it is unclear whether any of these options presented above (Realdash, PTD's dash) are able to handle arbitrary analogue inputs (like oil pressure). I was under the impression that they were mostly aimed at ECU data over the diagnostic interface, with limited other inputs (speed, etc). If the ECU don't know about it - the dash can't.
  18. Some of it maybe, but there are clear signs of small jack heads pushing the lower surface of the rail up and leaving the sides less crushed. When a forklift wrecks rails, it crushes everything. See this here - obvious trolley jack head tooth marks! And here, the rail is punched upwards from below but the side of the rail are not punched up equally. This is definitely done by a jack, and you can see the teeth marks in the circled area too. A crash repairer will want thousands to fix this. I've spoken to a good crashie about this and he says it is uneconomic to fix them. You might do it on a $50k+ GTR, but not a rusted shitter.
  19. You're gunna need a USB ADC if you want to connect real world gauges to a tablet. And that would require the USB port to be running as OTG, which can make it hard to charge the tablet, so you're going to need a tablet with a separate power port. The way you've asked your question leads me to think that it is too big a project.
  20. Hit 1 at SAU via google https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462974-injector-dead-time-values/ Hit 2 at SAU via google https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173670-injector-latencies/?do=findComment&comment=3198856 There's obviously more available that way.
  21. You ABSOLUTELY DO NOT jack up the car under the chassis rails. Those rails are f u c k e d and have obviously been used to jack the car. They are very close to unrecoverably f u c k e d and the care is totally defectable in Australia because of it. The only place to jack the car, using a scissor jack, is at the correct jacking points which are under the sill panels. You can see them very clearly when you look for them. If not using a scissor jack, then the only place is with a trolley jack or similar under the centre of the front subframe (very carefully!!!!) or under the diff/rear subframe as appropriate.
  22. Well, if they're noisy, it will be more than just the seals. The thrusts have probably taken a lot of wear.
  23. VCT is inlet only on R33 onwards RBs (no RBs prior to that had VCT). RB26 does not have VCT. There are aftermarket kits (HKS VCAM) to add it. It's not +/-20°. Only 20° total. It's activated by throttle % and across an RPM band ending at about 4500-4700 depending on which engine. Those figures are lobe centres, at rest.
  24. Not talking about making custom knuckles. Just some alternative code rings and little brackets for sensors. But I'd look at R33 stuff first, just in case.
  25. Ah, that's not quite true. On all the R chassis cars the suspension design is exactly the same between RWD and AWD cars. Double wishbone (for a flexible enough definition of wishbone). Same upper arms. Same-ish lower arms and uprights. But the lower arms are different between AWD and RWD cars and the uprights are different. As far as I know, it is not feasible to put AWD knuckles onto a RWD front end. I might be wrong about that - but the AWD knuckles are obviously very different, because they have the whole axle thing going on. I do not know if R33 RWD front knuckles will fit onto R32, but there is a very good chance that they will. Worth going to a wreckers and putting them side by side. I was thinking similar to Duncan. Probably best to find a way to fit a sheetmetal code ring somewhere and custom a bracket to hold a sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...