GTSBoy

So, did you search? More than 20 years of actual stuff on this forum alone. viz. Most of these use plastic. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r32+with+r34+front&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjkuNjK6PLmAhUFxzgGHRi9CcYQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1779&bih=888

Also, watch the Motive DVD videos with Platinum Racing Products on RB block testing. There may be a certain amount of overhype involved, but if nothing else they do tell you what to look for when testing the block. And I would certainly be testing a block before building. There's nothing worse that pouring $10k of goodies into an engine only to have it fall back out on the road.

What do you mean "conversion"? Are you talking about using original panels? You do realise that the R32 and the R34 are completely different shapes, right? You won't be able to stitch the rather vertical sided guards of the 34 onto the somewhat more curvy rear half of the R32 guards. Any such conversion you have seen done before (like the S15 onto S13 strawberry face conversion) involves complete replacement panels in fibreglass. Not steel stitched to steel. I'm not saying it is impossible, but it is not something you just "do". This would be a massive custom bodybuilding exercise to be undertaken by a skilled panelbeater.

Ahhaha! And you said you had no manual boost controller. How big a bleed valve do you need to equate to an open port? You just had it wound up to "kill".

How embarrassment!

Porting is ALWAYS worth it. Except when your budget does not allow for it. There's about $3k of work involved, and you don't need to port it to achieve the stated power goal.

The silver box resistor on the LHS suspension tower, stamped JECS 15-000J01 is the fuel pump dropping resistor. People always ask what that is.

My point (as quoted above) was that there are no resistors in the injector circuit on an RB20. Repeat, there IS NOT A 6 PACK OF IMPEDANCE MATCHING RESISTORS, such as is found on RB26s. RB20 injectors are high impedance. Nearly all modern injectors are also. Therefore, there is no reason to change anything when putting new injectors on an RB20.

I have Al bonnet on R32, and still occasionally ponder whether I should put struts onto it. It is certainly much easier/better/safer working under a bonnet that is held up by struts instead of the bonnet stay. It is reasonably easy to belt the stay with your elbow hard enough to give yourself a real fright.

Were you in a video that I saw the other day? Workplace accident next to the spa?

Have you looked at Amayama? https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/hv35/6820-vq30dd/electric/252

Is this a trick question? Got a Nissan part number on it? Go to Nissan spare parts counter with it in your hand. They're bound to be common to 20 other cars in Nissan's fleet at the same age.

Drill hole. Weld on fitting. You can thread a fitting into a hole in a thinwall pipe....but i'ts a bit shit, very highly recommended not to. If you are talking about aluminium casting, you should be able to tap a thread into it, but you need to be very careful about drilling and tapping swarf (ie make sure it doesn't go inside the pipework - preferably do it off the car).

Yes, that's the other big reason not to do it.

That's not the problem. The problem is that the wastegate is supposed to control the boost made by the turbo. If you connect downstream of the throttle and have the throttle partially open, there are conditions where the boost can be much higher upstream the throttle than it is supposed to be. The turbo ends up working harder (more exhaust backpressure) than it needs to. This is actually not a problem a lot of the time, but some very bizarre boost control problems sometimes happen when it is set up that way. It is far better to simply avoid it by doing it properly.

What. You mean like this? https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=r34+tein+bonnet&_sacat=0

You can google for images that people have created, print out and stick on with UHU glue. That's what I did for on my R32 20 years ago.

First things first, do NOT hook up the boost source line from the plenum. You really really want that signal line to come from immediately after the turbo, not downstream of the throttle. The pictures tell you the best place to get it. Second things second.....does the wastegate even move? Is it stuck? If you put compressed air on it instead, will it open? Etc.

RB20DET stock injectors are high impedance. RB26DETT stock injectors are low impedance. Guess which one had the resistor box.

If your mechanic cannot do it the way that I suggested, then a new mechanic would be a strong recommendation.

That's where the roll pin proof rag (and grease) comes into play.

Why not take it out, look at it and work out which Bosch or Walbro is the most suitable and just go with that?

If it's misfiring at 5 psi or so, then it is weak ignition. Your coils are the most likely culprits there. The boost control issue is not something that will be easy to diagnose across the 'net. Especially if you have had it apart lots. It will be something weird.

You broke something. Take it apart and fix it.

I have no idea where the fuse is on V series cars. but it won't likely be that, because it won't likely be a single fuse just for that purpose. If it was blown, other things would not be working.