GTSBoy

You're still working on the assumption that there is such a thing as "excess oil". I would argue you want full engine oil pressure available in the actuator and that the flow away from there through the bleed holes is whatever that pressure will cause applied to that cross-sectional area.

But what flow are we talking about here? This is not powered by flow. It is powered by static pressure. The oil doesn't have to go anywhere. There is probably a little flow channel somewhere to allow it to purge air out, but it is supposed to receive lots of oil pressure because it is oil pressure that pushes the actuator. It's not like a turbo where the oil just has to be there and any extra pressure will push it through the seals. Pressure is desirable here.

Anything that tough to crack will f**k a ratchet spanner anyway. They are not for loosening tough bolts, only for spinning in and out.

Aaaaaaaaannd.....it's a 2003 Pulsar. Don't spend any money on it.

I shouldn't think you need to restrict it. It is a hydraulic actuator.....you know, uses pressure to do shit.

WD40 + muscles. Long spanners & breaker bars. The usual.

Who cares what the gauge says?

Drop the driveshaft at the diff and pull it out.

Try Brenton at Fours'n'More. He'll hate me for sending another dirty Datto his way, but he knows them well, even the FJ.

Ugh. How long is a piece of string? It is worth somewhere between the very large sum of money that an very good original or restored chrome bumper 70s car with relationship to cool models (while not actually being inherently cool itself) would command, and the zero value based on the fact that it is not completely straight, is badly weathered inside and out and would cost more to bring back than it could ever really be worth. You might sell it to a Datto tragic for a couple of grand. You might sell it to someone with a very weak grasp on reality for 5. I'd offer $200 and suffer instant buyer's remorse because I don't need a project like that, even though I would really like an old 240K.

Physics would like to argue.

Nope. Will cause lower psi than it might without the large gaps, but compression is a very fast process and the leak rate out through the gaps is "slow" compared to the compression pulses. Whereas, leakdown tests are steady state. The sad fact is.....if the engine is truly leaking more than it should and you are "sure" that the bottom end is healthy, then the seats are bad.

That's >$5k right there. Probably a lot more than that because the inner guard is smoked and the rad support and the chassis rail probably generously bent. Whether those parts are straightened (if it's doable) or replaced, will both cost a few bucks. Then you need all those external panels and lights and radiator and other plastics. The $$ add up quick. You won't fix it yourself, because you'll need more facilities than anyone reasonably has at home, or even in a friend's workshop, unless that friend is a crashie.

High duration camshaft CANNOT cause high leakdown results. Leakdown tests are only done when both valves are closed. Ergo, cam duration is not an issue. cams with big duration will cause low compression test results, for the obvious reasons that they let the compression back out through the intake valve while the piston is closing. Truly healthy engines can have higher than expected leakdown because forged pistons with higher clearances and wider ring gaps will simply leak more.

Do this in Victoria. Please do it. Then report back what a toilet brush up the arsehole feels like for those of us who might want to know, but aren't willing to find out personally.

In all seriousness, you have asked a question that has been asked more times on this forum over the last 25 years than you have had hot dinners. Search. There are dozens of possibilities, all documented.

Haha. Sorry. I think the intention was to go looking for stuff that was on offer for sale. WTBs are almost a complete waste of time, because so few people look at them.

Yes.

No idea. No-one would have ever brought a diesel Nissan sedan into Australia. At least, not deliberately.

Did you really need yet ANOTHER thread?

(Changeable) rear geometry aside, is there really any significant difference there?

Seriously? It's a forum. Go to the top of the page, click on anything that looks like it will take you back to the SAU home page, or the breadcrumbs up to the top level of the forum hierarchy, and then follow the links back down.

Fuse blown for sensor heaters? Wiring feeding from fuse to sensor heaters melted? Those are ways that I can imagine for all 4 to give up at the same time.

Yes......we will all eventually get to the point where we realise that there's no point in spending more money on these things. Silk purse, sow's ear, etc.

Yes.....my point was around the throttle blipping on downshift. Can only achieve that wit DBW and it's not just a case of checking a box that says "blip the throttle on downshifts". There's some tuning needs to be done to get it right across the different downshifts (singles and doubles from all gears down except first) and across different vehicle speeds (because it's not always the same size rev blip even for the same gear if you're looking to be able to do it at all possible speeds for that gear. Wasn't saying it's impossible or hard. Just work.