GTSBoy

stranger2020 is a spamming arsehole. Post reported.

As if they would have different length cats.

I don't know how it is done in Link. You might have a single percentage adjustment number to put in, or there might be several points you need to fill. Whatever it is, you are looking to bump up whatever the ECU thinks it should do for a pulsewidth by a small amount at low pulsewidths to account for the fact that injectors don't flow as well as they "should" at low pulsewidths.

18x10 is just too wide at the front regardless of offset. You dun f**ked up by buying wheels that WON'T fit before making sure that they will.

An = analogue. T2...dunno, but will no doubt tell you which analogue input it is. at 5V = Saturated analogue input. Sensor is not doing what it is supposed to be doing (ie, giving somewhere between 0.5 and 4.5V or whatever it is set up to do) and is just jamming full sensor voltage. It's f**ked in some way.

What the f**k sort of useless arseholes do you have in your area? If the motor trade acted like that here their shops would get burnt down.

Sort of. You'll see that below 2ms the section of table is labelled "non-linear". That means you need to look at how far off the linear line the flows are there, and add some small % to the ECU's output, to compensate.

Wishful thinking only based on the relative costs of fabrication method. Sarcasm/irony was fully embedded in post.

I do not understand. Walk in and purchase tomorrow. Receive part in hand. Faster than on-line overnight parts from Japan sik yo!

You see quite a few Skylines running around Adelaide as dailies.

Get stuffed. It's been covered already. Do your own research.

f**karound workarounds are not a great idea. Proper sump breathers and catch can plumbing are the answer. The last 100 pages of the oil control thread make this pretty clear.

OEM is PUR or ABS (or whatever plastic they used), so much more resilient to impacts, etc than any FR material. Also should be cheaper, because injection moulded in bulk. But, now that you're talking about 20 years of warehousing, plus GTR tax, etc, you want, you pay.

Just walk into a CV joint repair workshop (I can think of 3 within a 20 minute drive of where I live) and ask them to source some. They will have documentation to tell them what the critical dimensions of the R34 ones are, and can cross reference with off-brand boots. (By the way, these are called CV joint boots, not trims). And don't just buy the cheapest. Good boots are thick and rubbery. The cheap ones split quickly.

2 min for the console. 3 minutes for the lever.

"Check the switch" does not mean "give it a poke". It means "disassemble it and work out why it not joining wire A to wire B".

There's plenty of headlight polishing kits available. It's just polish. Grinding off the oxidised layer.

You're not looking for the fuse that feeds the alarm. You're looking for ANY fuse that might be blown and hence interfering with the car starting. Any decent alarm installer should never take power from a fused source in the fusebox. They should take power direct from a hot feed and the alarm should have its own fuse.

Yup. Just need lots of bubble wrap.

R32....probably not. They sold for ~AU$120k here. I'm not sure what was being asked in JP at the same time, but your typical R32 is not trading that high, by any means. They have bounced up and down by big amounts across the years though. When I bought a 32 GTSt at the tail end of last century, GTRs were asking >$40k. By 10 years later they were down to $20k, plus or minus. Rough ones as low as $15k. Really nice ones still asking, but probably not getting, $40k. But they're all well above those numbers now. At the same time that R32s were down to ~$20k, the 34 was falling towards $40k, but they bottomed out there and went back up to $80k, plus or minus, fairly quickly. I'd say that some 34s are changing hands over the original JP new price.

Yes, you will experience the joys of oversteer. Too much.

Auto-elec will work out what is wrong with it in about 5 minutes. It will be the ignition switch failed, or something equally dull. Or maybe the shitty immobiliser thing hiding in there. In which case your auto-eleccy will curse your name as he pulls it out because they hate them because they do this sort of shit. You should just pay for a tow to get it out of the carpark and into a workshop.

There are many more people who would like a GTR in the US than there are GTRs available. There is also no shortage of Trump freedom currency circulating thanks to the CTRL-P policies in place since 2008. Nostalgia is runaway. Consumption is cool again. Insta-likes are the new currency. Of course it will keep going up.

Check for issues before posting to the internet for help diagnosing something that is best diagnosed in situ.

Oversteer as f**k!