GTSBoy

2 min for the console. 3 minutes for the lever.

"Check the switch" does not mean "give it a poke". It means "disassemble it and work out why it not joining wire A to wire B".

There's plenty of headlight polishing kits available. It's just polish. Grinding off the oxidised layer.

You're not looking for the fuse that feeds the alarm. You're looking for ANY fuse that might be blown and hence interfering with the car starting. Any decent alarm installer should never take power from a fused source in the fusebox. They should take power direct from a hot feed and the alarm should have its own fuse.

Yup. Just need lots of bubble wrap.

R32....probably not. They sold for ~AU$120k here. I'm not sure what was being asked in JP at the same time, but your typical R32 is not trading that high, by any means. They have bounced up and down by big amounts across the years though. When I bought a 32 GTSt at the tail end of last century, GTRs were asking >$40k. By 10 years later they were down to $20k, plus or minus. Rough ones as low as $15k. Really nice ones still asking, but probably not getting, $40k. But they're all well above those numbers now. At the same time that R32s were down to ~$20k, the 34 was falling towards $40k, but they bottomed out there and went back up to $80k, plus or minus, fairly quickly. I'd say that some 34s are changing hands over the original JP new price.

Yes, you will experience the joys of oversteer. Too much.

Auto-elec will work out what is wrong with it in about 5 minutes. It will be the ignition switch failed, or something equally dull. Or maybe the shitty immobiliser thing hiding in there. In which case your auto-eleccy will curse your name as he pulls it out because they hate them because they do this sort of shit. You should just pay for a tow to get it out of the carpark and into a workshop.

There are many more people who would like a GTR in the US than there are GTRs available. There is also no shortage of Trump freedom currency circulating thanks to the CTRL-P policies in place since 2008. Nostalgia is runaway. Consumption is cool again. Insta-likes are the new currency. Of course it will keep going up.

Check for issues before posting to the internet for help diagnosing something that is best diagnosed in situ.

Oversteer as f**k!

du f*k?

I think the simple answer involves one end suiting an AEM ECU and the other end suiting an OEM loom plug. Thus, trying to put two of them in series is like trying to mate crocodiles with poodles.

Most R33 headlights are useless cloudy lensed deathtraps anyway.

With these things it's possible to dismantle, clean and lube and they work again.

Oops yes. Caught up in my own tonguetangulation.

I can't believe that anyone would want to buy one. We all f**ked HICAS off years ago.

Physically it's all the same, except that Neo is push clutch and 30 is pull, so you will need to sort that out.

Full face Extreme is a sensible choice. Mantic is 50/50 on whether people think they're great or suck balls.

Trace the wet up to where it comes from. It is not unusual for the water pump to start to leak at the shaft seal, sometimes even at the gasket. These things need to be replaced every so often. The PS pump could be leaking from it's shaft seal, from a hose connection or a body seal. You know what fluids are leaking, you know what they are supposed to be kept inside. You just need to find out where they are getting out.

Bah. One is a bastardised BMW that will have all sorts of expensive and shitty mechanical problems courtesy of being a BMW. The other is a Renault/Nissan, of which there have been precisely zero desirable cars made in the entire relationship, on either side.

Yuh, the one labelled AUDIO.

You have to be careful with N1 pumps. They used to be a good thing. Then there was a period of time where they were apparently not from the original factory/stock and there were a lot of failures. I'm not sure where they are at right now. The 25Neo oil pump is an original N1.

Strictly speaking, you don't really need to do anything for your power level and usage model. Except maybe the recommended restrictors. Particularly for your plan, I would not consider drilling the oil returns. If the engine will be apart, I might radius the top ends a little. If you want to do anything useful for breathing and oil return, a hose connecting from above oil level in sump up to the cam covers is the right idea. This is described very nicely in the last 100 pages or so of the oil control thread. Also so easy to do if the engine will be apart anyway. Any good pump upgrade is a good idea. If the engine is apart, it makes sense to look into the pump drive and make sure that whoever is putting it together isn't a f**kwit.

1 minute of searching on here. https://cdn.sau.com.au/post-7461-1238892012.jpg