GTSBoy

This is our usual response to anyone who wants to keep their NA Skyline/Stagea/other shitbox and turbo it. From a purely realistic point of view it is a shit idea to spend money putting a turbo onto a car that was available as a turbo model. It is only a slightly less shit idea to put a turbo engine into a car that was available with that same engine. It is FAR more sensible to just buy the factory turbo version. Now, in your case, you maintain that NA cars are half the price of turbo cars. But realistically, once you have bought the NA car, plus all the stuff you need to convert it (engine, gearbox, ECU, wiring loom, diff, brakes, etc) and spent all the f**king time and effort on putting it in, you would be far better off just buying the turbo version to start with. But, if you are a masochist with time to spend on engine swaps, etc, then go right ahead and start with an NA. Just keep in mind that it won't end up being much cheaper. In your particular case, given the pain involved in an engine transplant, it would actually be a better idea to put a turbo onto your NA engine. The parts needed are available, and it is very well documented all over the 'net, including probably 10000 threads on here. Again though, you must be aware that your weak gearbox will be at peril of death after a couple of years, your open diff will piss you off, your brakes will be small for a turbo powered car and you will have to do something about engine management because the NA ECU will not play along. Just buy the turbo car.

And fuel pump, and all the other things that it could be.

No, and never under those sorts of changes. No. Because it doesn't really do anything. It just forgets the long term fuel trims, which will not stay there very long if there is no mechanical/electrical problem causing them in the first place. If the problems are still there, then a reset ECU will go back there reasonably quickly anyway.

HICAS is a bit better in the later cars, but it's like being anally raped with a slightly smaller toiletbrush than the R32's large toiletbrush.

Really? https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=rb25+neo+crank+angle+sensor&_sacat=0

Any tie rod ends in the HICAS are more likely to be f**ked than any other part. HICAS sucks balls though, and there is no reason beyond nostalgia for keeping it. Or don't you care how the car actually drives?

The OE GTR diff is a normal mech LSD. It can be rebuilt and tweaked, same as any.

Active diff though, right?

The 30s are R32 GTR.

Just in terms of the usual drug induced thinking around twin turbos on GTRs around here, I'd suggest it would be worth about 120% of what it costs you to convert to single. Won't even have time to stand up after pushing the post button your for sale ad and it will be sold.

No no. I disagree. Let's give him all the instructions he needs to remove, dismantle, rebuild and refit an automatic transmission. One. Post. At. A. Time.

Bollocks. There are no rules. You write your resume or CV to suit the application that you are putting it to. You don't use the same format for a job as a carpenter as you do for a job as an engineer as you do for a position on a community committee.

The lower box even says ECR3 on the list of models that they fit.

The short answer though is, lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I don't think that you will get that information to the level of accuracy that you want. If it were me, I would create a way to manually calibrate the AFM. That would involve inserting it into a suitable (long) length of 3" tube (assuming 3" is the right size - choose the appropriate size for closest match to the AFM body) and do some manual measurements with a small plain pitot. The way to do that would be to ensure that the pipe upstream of the AFM was at least 15x the diameter of the tube, (so, at least 1200mm long) and drill a small hole to allow pitot insertion at a point >5D upstream the AFM and >10D downstream the inlet end. Probably put a bellmouth on the inlet end too, to give it the best chance of developing a clean velocity profile by the time it gets to the pitot location. Do a 5 or 7 point equal area traverse. If you're really keen, have another hole at right angles to the first to permit a 2nd traverse across the other plane. Convert all differential pressure readings to velocity then average all those values to obtain average velocity. (Also need to measure temperature and static pressure at the measuring location to calculate air density for the velocity calc). Then with the average velocity and the density in hand, simply convert to mass flow rate. You can do this at a variety of flow rates to compare against the AFM voltage reading. Be aware though that plain pitot measurements are not good below 5 m/s and the measurement error starts to climb as you go below 10 m/s. You could use some other sort of velocity measuring device. If you have a very small vane anemometer available (say, 15mm diameter head) and you had good calibration data for it (they always read a little low) you could use that to go direct to velocity. Ditto if you know someone with a proper hot wire anemometer, which is the exact same tech as the AFM you're trying to calibrate, conveniently. If you can't access any probe style velocity measuring tools, you could make an orifice plate (in accordance with the appropriate standard, which I think is BS 1042, or one of the equivalents) and measure the differential pressure across that. The beauty of the orifice technique is that you can make a number of different sized orifices so that you can extend the bottom end of the measuring range (by using smaller orifices). Any dP measurement will require that you be able to measure dP. The best/easiest way is with a suitable digital manometer, but you can always make an inclined manometer with a plank and some hose and you would be surprised how accurate that can be. Whatever length of tube you had the AFM in for these manual measurements (both on the inlet side and the outlet, which could be shorter) would be best retained as a permanent part of your test rig, because it will be a part of the calibration of the AFM.

It's probably fair to say that it can.

But. But. But. HKS! It's HKS man!

Yes....but..... Whilst the seats may claim "ADR Approved"..... The rails say "Off Road Use only". That's because the seats don't really need ADR approval and the rails do. And that goes to show you what sort of bullshit people can spin you into thinking that you're buying road legal stuff, when you're not. None of these seat rails are "ADR Approved". Not these. Not the Bride ones. Not the JJR ones. Nothing. As best I can tell, the only way to get aftermarket seats legally installed is to get an engineer's report on the mounting system. I'd assume that if you went to a proper motor trimmer who sells Recaros etc, that they would likely be able to generate such a report, because they actually do the install work and I'm sure that they have to be able to cover their arses legally. Probably not for free though. But face it, if you're buying thousands of dollars of Recaros for your Landcruiser, a couple hundred extra bucks isn't a big issue. But for cheapskate R33 owners buying seats that are only $200 each (!!), it's a roadblock. Right?

Question makes no sense. Go take a wheel off your car and see if you can work it out for yourself.

If unplugging the AFM didn't make it better, then it probably isn't the AFM at fault. It's a standard check - the ECU can limp along without the AFM.

Could also be fuel pump. Could be mechanical - on drive side of CAS. The drive has been known to be broken by donkeys. Unplug the AFM and see how it runs.

Please tell us that you have read the oil control thread. If you have no, then you have circa the last 100 pages of it to read before you proceed. No whining, no pissing, no moaning. Just do it.

Yup. Piece of corflute will fix it.

How big are the prizes in your race category?

The only problem is that the Sumitomo caliper bolts don't have any such markings. But they will be a high tensile grade. They have to clamp pretty hard.