GTSBoy

Brake-kleen and a wire brush.

Basically, yes. There are some return flow setups that are not as bad, but the majority suffer from the sharp turn and smaller core height. So once the air flow rates get up a bit higher, the pressure drop skyrockets. The pressure drop goes up with the square of flow rate, so once it become significant, it becomes numerically much worse with every small increase in flow. If you were running that turbo at 24 psi (at the outlet), to get 14 psi at the plenum, then you can see that you're actually working the turbo MUCH harder than it looks. That's why you need to know the data. Because if you're only losing 2 psi over the cooler, then you have to look elsewhere.

That will be what Tao will say is your problem. What is the boost pressure at the turbo outlet while you get your 14 psi at the plenum? You must make measurements of what is going on.

I bought my car last century.

I have the high-rise armrest and the glovebox coolbox in mine. Both rare options almost never ordered. But my favourite part is the A31 Cefiro rear subframe. No HICAS. No wait. It's the Neo. No wait. It's the S15 helical diff.

Mine idles as 60-650 all day every day. All it takes to get it there is to set the idle speed target in Nistune.

Only unmodified examples can come in under SEVS. Assuming that you are eligible to import as a personal import, you would be well advised to google rules for personal imports yourself.

That ^ is the correct colour for calipers.

There is no way that that has been only 120k km since about 2002!!! Lolz. Also, it does not have GTSt seats in it, so consider that it might have been built up out of something else. I would check the VIN on the GTR registry. See what pops up. Nissan FAST also good for that. The car doesn't look too bad. The oil weep around the HICAS solenoids is not great. But there's too little else to go on.

He meant 324mm, like Duncan said. Just to avoid confusion.

Photos?

What country, what is your budget, what is your ability to fix things, will you keep it as auto or will you want to convert to manual? And a million other questions that will inform your decision.

Have you taken the switch to pieces? I mean, pry open the plastic clips that hold it together and LOOK ON THE INSIDE?

Dismantle switch and see what is broken inside it. By "dismantle switch", I mean pull it out of the door trim and COMPLETELY DISMANTLE the switch. Pull the plastic casing apart and look for dirty/broken/burnt contacts, pivot points, snapped wires or solder joints, etc etc etc. Beyond that, you are starting to get into the realm of needing to investigate the "amplifiers" that control the motors themselves, because these have electronics inside them, with 30 year old shitty electrolytic capacitors that are approaching or past EOL.

Just the front? You know Skylines look pox with wide front guards and skinny originals at the back, right?

I didn't play the video. Unstable idle speed where it jumps up and down is almost always a sticky IACV caused by it being dirty. It is a complete pain in the arse to get to. It is under the plenum.

Dirty IACV.

Need a reason to tune it. (Which you do not really have, even if drag racing is what you are wanting to do). There is precious little you can do to wring more power out of an NA engine. Advance the CAS a couple of degrees and you will save yourself the thousand seashells that it would cost to "tune" it with the SAFC. If you want more power, you are going to have to put something onto the engine that will add power. That can be NA mods (cams, porting, compression), or nitrous or a turbo or a blower. The NA mods are a bad idea (on power per $). Nitrous will see you destroy your engine. A blower is always too hard for everyone. So, you need a turbo. Then, you need an ECU, not the SAFC, which is a pig's breakfast way to tune an engine.

HG still good. Highflow still good. Very much worth contacting Tao to discuss your requirement before deciding what you're going to do, because the HG website proffers so many options that are hard to rank in your mind as to which is the better choice. Absolutely not worth sending your turbo to Melbourne for the job. HG can supply a core for a fee, which would be quicker and only slightly more expensive. I'd also think that the brand new ATR turbos, which are bolt on to a slightly less degree that the highflows are, would be a smarter choice than a highflow these days. The exhaust side can be bolt on. The inlet side would need a new inlet pipe, which is a good thing anyway. Worth talking to Tao about that also.

f**k!

Is this a question?

There is no point in choking a large compressor with a small exhaust housing. The smart approach to wanting good response is to choose a smaller turbo. the smart approach to wanting max power from a given compressor is to choose the smallest exhaust housing that will get you there - which is NOT the smallest housing available, generally.

If you have Nistune, then just look at the feedback gauges. O2 sensor needs to be flicking between nearly 0v and nearly 1v every second or so, to be in closed loop. If it's not, then there is probably something wrong with your O2 sensor, or a moron has turned off feedback!

Nobody is going to import paint from Japan. Paint is paint everywhere.