GTSBoy

Yup. Paint. Any paint at all. KillRust would be a good choice, as it is a good anti-rust primer as well as colour.

There's no good spot to mount more gauges in a GTR. The only halfway decent way to do it is with a full replacement A pillar mount, so that you don't drill holes in your original one.

Peak Hold is a good thing. It shows the highest boost achieved for a short period of time after each boost event. I'm not sure why you'd want to turn it off.

P.H. would be Peak Hold. PSI, because....it's reading out in PSI. No?

Is the top of your engine painted as a Serbian flag!?

I hate the look when the car burns down. But that's just me.

There's a whole lot of other things that could be wrong. Examples; The S1 engine could have been well worn when you bought it. The rings in it could all be stuck in the grooves, needing to be run properly to free up (or possibly dismantled and cleaned/freed up.)

Just wire it like the R33 GTR? Why even bother messing about? Just make the right sensor wires go to the right ECU pins.

Don't even consider trying to modify the existing arms to make them adjustable. There are adjustable urethane bushes you can put in, but they only offer a tiny adjustment. There are heaps of really good adjustable arms available. And some shitty ones. Many of the ones you see on eBay are fairly shitty. One brand worth looking at is Hardrace. You can get them with spherical joints or with hardened rubber bushes. For a streeter, especially a wagon, especially in the frozen ice-hole of Hoth (Canada) I'd not recommend sphericals. You will need to buy both the camber arms and the traction rods (adjustable) and whatever % change you make on the camber arms (from the stock length) you should make on the traction arms also. This is the best way to keep the bumpsteer response under control if you're not going to go to the effort of actually measuring the bumpsteer and correcting it in detail. And trust me. If your wheel aligner is using DR30 Skyline specs for aligning your Stagea, they are not qualified to be trying to measure bump steer! You should look to the equivalent era Skyline for guidance on wheel alignment. But more realistically, there would have to be plenty of people discussing the ideal settings for all the Stageas in their various wagon dungeons. For serious, my recommendation for the rear is -0.75° camber and 0.5 - 1.0 mm toe in each side. Make sure that your aligner does a thrust line alignment to make sure that the car isn't bent. If the front is driving one way, and the rear is driving another, you can't really win, then you have to start biasing the alignment front and rear to compensate, and there is no way anyone can advise yo what to do about that over the internet.

You would need to be able to edit posts. Which you can't.

The problem with going the Mustang route is that you then have a Mustang and blend into the plethora of them being driven by rich bogan wives, balding middle managers and other assorted poseurs. Notwithstanding the massive price difference, the Camaro has to be the more satisfying choice, because there are none of them around and there are certainly no 4cyl ones around!

There'll only be one wire. The whole car is an earth.

I love the chaotic idea of sending an R34 back to Japan. Welcome to the forums.

They're cheap enough from Jaycar, eBay, etc.

Yup, so now you're looking for a bleeding problem. Perhaps it has a small leak somewhere that sucks air in as it cools down.

Joy! I have to drive from Adelaide to Whyalla next week for a few day's work at the steelworks. Our lockdown is only as tight as the politicians think it is. I have never seen so many people out and about on walking & bike tracks as I have in the last month. It's amazing what happens when you take away the cappucino and smashed avo brunches from the Gen Ys and Boomers (who have more in common than they would like to admit!)

But we're talking about New Zealand here. You can drive from Wellington to anywhere else in the Nth Island in what? 6 hours? Where I grew up we used to drive that far on a Saturday night just to go to the speedway.

Booster fan sensor is at the bottom tank on the driver's side. Just because the gauge says something, does not make it true. Check resistance of gauge sensor against values in manual, expected gauge position, and temperature reading from laser pyrometer on radiator hose(s).

It's not that. It's the willingness to ghetto the management. It's like the $3.50 needed to buy the turbo and manifold off some failed project is available, and not a cent more.

Why are we going back to the era of broke-arse ex-R31 owners wanting to modify R32s etc? It's f**king bizarre. Is it important to keep enough money for meth?

Never heard of Nistune, hey?

Why spend the money required to add the boost without spending the little extra money to make sure that you don't accidentally grenade it? Seems like a return to the stupid days of the late 80s early 90s where we didn't have the options that we do today.

Use a 20DET ECU, just put Nistune into the ECU and win at life.

I don't know about the injector sizes, but even if they were the same I wouldn't want to do it. Hell, I wouldn't even want to run an RB20DET on a stock, non-Nistuned ECU these days.

I just thump it with the heel of my palm.