GTSBoy

NOS. Two of the big ones. In al seriousness, an NA RB20 is is no way a performance engine. Transplant it into a lightweight 60s or 70s car and it would be good fun. Get it as the turbo version and it is OK, but still never going to set the world alight. When an RB25DET is equally as easy to get, and makes life 100% nicer, the RB20 makes no sense. So you should either just do nothing to it at all, budget $10k for a full house 10000rpm build (that will only make 300HP anyway and only run from 4000rpm up), add a turbo or blower to it, or budget on outright replacement with an RB25DET. None of these really make sense, when you can go buy an actual turbo Skyline right now.

It's a great idea. A lot of software forums etc have a requirement that you do something like that when requesting help. Based on recent experience here, I would suggest that expectation of the posters is; Problem: Waaaaaaaah. What I have tried: Poking it with a stick. Am I willing to listen to advice: No. Can I keep poking it with a stick? Return to Problem.

Still should have worded that better. What do mean by "different"? Just a physically separate item to the one that you have now? Why? Is it working? Is it broken? Do you need to keep the car on the road at all times or can it be off the road for 2 weeks while you send the turbo to Melbourne to be highflowed? Information is gold.

I'm not an R35 owner, but I think the summary looks like..... Early ones break a lot. Later ones break less. When they break, you pay.

Could be a wide range of other things too. Dirty/f**ked IACV/AAC. Dirty injectors. Big fat vacuum leak. Faulty AFM. Hole in a piston. Burnt valves/seats.

Well, the mental state of someone who built and/or owns that would have to qualify them for disability, wouldn't it?

1 bar is 14.5 psi is 760 mm of mercury. The stock gauge is marked in hundreds of mm of mercury. So the 7 is 700/760 of a bar, which is 0.92 bar or 13.3 psi. True. But your wastegate and/or actuator could be stuffed/sticky and not opening properly, hence giving you big boost until the exhaust manifold pressure rises into stupidland and blows it open a bit more, leading to spike then drop. No, fuel is your first concern. Overboosting while it is lean as shit will KILL your engine. You have to stop doing it until you have diagnosed the lean issue. No. Put a gauge on it. Don't f**k about with crazy secondhand ways of trying to work out what the fuel pressure situation is. Do it properly, measure it directly. Another regulator will not magically make a failing fuel pump work any better anyway!! Fuel pressure gauge gets teed into the fuel line, and you run it out of the bonnet and hold it in your hand/lap/passenger's hand/lap as you drive. If the pressure starts high and plummets on load, you know what's happening. Even better, do it on a dyno. Upstream means up stream, meaning in the direction from which the flow is coming. The fuel pressure is set by the regulator at the outlet of the rail. You can only measure the rail pressure at a position upstream of the reg, which means at the inlet end.

Your English is fine, so don't worry about that. What exactly doesn't work though? Which gauges? Which functions?

Spam is spam dude! Doesn't matter how deep you dig.

7 on the stock gauge is a little less than 14 psi. The stock gauge isn't bad, so if they disagree, suspect your aftermarket one first. Add another gauge in temporarily (from a workshop) to double triple check, The behaviour of the boost gauge (staying up) sounds sus too. Double and triple check the lines feeding that, just in case of stupidity. And RB25 stock actuator pressure is 5 psi. It is brought up to 7 psi by the stock boost control valve. What to check next? Put a pressure gauge into the fuel line upstream of the fuel rail and load the engine. If you have to go to a workshop to do this, then do it. There is no point flailing around in the dark. Do not f**k about with the regulator. There will be nothing wrong with it. There is no sensor on the fuel rail. It is a pressure pulsation dampener.

Supercharger no less reliable than a turbo. Probably better. But that's not the point. RB20 is a small engine with a tiny engine's torque. Put a big turbo on an RB20 to make big power and you have 5500 rpm of no torque followed by an instant rise to all the torque. Which is absolute shit for a street car. Absolute shit for anything except drag, really. A supercharger provides an instant capacity multiplier from idle on upwards. What's not to love?

I'm with Kiwi. Lean as f**k, caused by low fuel pressure. Solve that first, then check to make sure that the boost gauge is not telling you lies. What is the stock gauge going up to?

All cheap coilovers are the same shit.

It's been national "drive like a (unt" week for the last 2 weeks already. 20 kays over the limit everywhere, drifting in traffic. You name it.

Serious Skylines run 4". It is amazing how much more power you can make from any size exhaust if you don't put the WG flow back into it though!

CVT f**ked. No internet diagnosis beyond that possible.

No. You post on the internet. Diagnosis 101! duh! Where have you been lately?

Be brave and put a supercharger on it. M112 or something man sized.

I am 100% sure that the procedure for bleeding the ABS has been posted before. Search, and ye shall find. By the way, it is a complete prick of a task. Also, when it comes to (vital safety) stuff like brakes, if you really do not know enough to solve your own problems, you should really consider using a professional to fix them. Just sayin'.

It's date stamped 1990. The chances of that not being genuine are what? Zero? Less than zero?

That all kinda comes down to how large the headlight housing is and how much time you spend on high beam. Back in the day with all glass 7" roundeyes it was trivial to put in 100W globes and not worry about overheating anything. Nowadays (or more to the point, back in the 80s/90s!!!) with physically smaller plastic housings and flimsy metallised plastic reflectors, the extra heat from a 100W globe can be a bad thing. If you don't use high beams so much, it probably passes without any issue. But for country cars that can spend half an hour or so on high beam quite easily, you start to see distortion and scorching in the back end of the housings. That's one of the causes of the chromey shit peeling up, etc etc.

No! Bad Kiwi! You're supposed to stop him from having to do his own diagnosis!!!!!

Well, in that case, a few truths apply; Buying expensive Jap brand name clutches for low power RB20s doesn't make sense. Most people on SAU are in Australia, therefor most of us would recommend an Extreme or NPC or one of several other local clutch assemblers. These are all Australian businesses, so it would make no sense to recommend one of them to you. Therefore you are reduced to waiting for someone in the US to make a similar recommendation on a clutch supplier in the states that they trust to build good clutches for Jap cars......or you widen your search parameters (away from Skyline specific info sources) and just look at who recommends what shops in the US for similar applications.

Twisting the car's body can definitely crack the windscreen. Did it do it in this case? How can we know?

But you would be very very wrong. There is enough pressure drop across the shitty sidemount for that to be a bad idea. Although it should result in other bad effects, not low boost. I'd seriously be looking for boost & exhaust leaks.