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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    We're Australian. We don't buy kits. We buy bits.
  2. GTSBoy
    Anything will do. It's fine, along wih about 300 other options. Anything will do here too. Only if the gearbox needs help shifting. Do not use it in a healthy box. Anything will do here too. Just so long as it is for LSDs.
  3. GTSBoy
    Black. Black is the correct answer, regardless of car colour.
  4. GTSBoy
    a/t means Automatic Transmission. A good clue that something is f**ked down there. You don't blow fuses for no reason. Have you tried searching for "reverse switch auto" on here?
  5. GTSBoy
    You have a vacuum leak somewhere, possibly an exhaust leak. Get yourself a piece of garden hose and go listening. This stuff is not so hard.
  6. GTSBoy
    2nd hand ones used to change hands for more than the new ones do now. Just buy new. 2nd hand ones are all 3s away from breaking again anyway.
  7. GTSBoy
    That RX looks straight out of the Cars animated film.
  8. GTSBoy
    I thought the MC's sensor had a plug dangling on 2 wires, not hard mounted into the MC. That's the bit I was talking about. But a quick google image search shows me I was mistaken......hmmm. Contact ABS or other equivalent brake shop to see what they know and/or can get?
  9. GTSBoy
    Take off sump. look for oil squirters. Other, less thorough option is to see if the injectors are DE or DET. Or you could look at the ECU's part number.
  10. GTSBoy
    What's wrong with cutting the OEM connector off and replacing with Deutsch equivalent? At least as good, probably better than original. Obtainable without stress, etc etc.
  11. GTSBoy
    Good stuff. That almost certainly would have been k ohms. As in 1240 ohms.
  12. GTSBoy
    I wait until the wheelspin stops.
  13. GTSBoy
    The expected resistance is somewhere between 800 ohms and 2200 ohms. That is why i initially instructed you to choose the 20k range on a multimeter, as it will definitely measure and display those sorts of values. If you try to measure a resistance larger than the range your meter is set to, it will say infinity. So you have to increase the range. You got open circuit at 19-20, which is one of the rears. You need to find that 4 pin plug and test those pairs too.
  14. GTSBoy
    I have trouble believing that all 4 of them are crook. Go down to the loom plugs for each sensor and check there. Follow the linked doc.
  15. GTSBoy
    Don't worry about the shifting guide. You can change up at any speed between idle and redline. The only question after that is whether it will have enough torque to swallow much throttle opening in the next gear> RB20s have little torque, so the answer to that question will be "no" unless you're above about 3k rpm. And just to the right of the speedo is the gauge that will tell you about that. The km to mile conversions are correct enough. Everyone since forever has treated the conversion as 40=60, 50=80, 60=100 and 70=110, to within the accuracy that matters.
  16. GTSBoy
    Too vague. By "on the harness side", he means down at the sensor plugs. Because the 13-14, 15-16 etc tests are done on the harness side, up at the CU. I always resist this suggestion until it is proven that there are no other faults on the car that could fry your friend's ATESSA box.
  17. GTSBoy
    The numbers you have are not relevant to anything, see above post.
  18. GTSBoy
    You reported no continuity on the 13 - 20 wires. I don't trust that. That would require all of them to be dead. Although you do need to report only the 13-14, 15-16 etc pairs. Get a resistor of known value from your stash of electronics parts and tell us what the Fluke says when you measure it on the cont/res scale. If you don't have a resistor, get an 8 ohm speaker or something and test that. The 1-2 and 3-4 pairs were not to be tested up at the ATTESA CU either. They were to be tested down at the sensor plugs. So try that too, and report.
  19. GTSBoy
    Yes....but I already posted that Flukes are autoranging, so you don't have to choose 2k or 20k or any other resistance range. But if it has an Omega symbol on the dial, then it can do resistance. And I cannot imagine a Fluke clamp meter that does not have a resistance range. So what model is it? Ahhhhh. Just saw post on previous page. The continuity range is also resistance. So now we go back to your original reporting on what the sensors were reading. Wait one.
  20. GTSBoy
    Nah. Don't bother. At idle it doesn't need to be making max volts and charging like a mofo. If it's charging at all at idle, that's enough. What matters it what it's doing when its under load.
  21. GTSBoy
    No. Swaptronics is the last resort, not the first. A useful multimeter is $10 at Jaycar. What model? I've never seen one that doesn't do resistance, current, volts, etc.
  22. GTSBoy
    Blanking plate in the console. No speakers. Just to save weight in cars that were going to go to race prep. Same as other stripper spec cars such as RS Evos, etc.
  23. GTSBoy
    Fuses protect the wires, not the equipment connected to the wires. Hence, you size the fuse to the wire's capacity. 10A makes sense.
  24. GTSBoy
    This cannot be true. The very definition of a multimeter means that it can measure resistance. Fluke is the best brand out there. It is not possible that it doesn't have it. The red arrow shows you the resistance mode. Flukes are autoranging, so you don't even need to select the 20k range yourself. It will do it for you.
  25. GTSBoy
    There's not supposed to be "continuity" in the sense of a short circuit. The resistance across those pairs of wires is supposed to be between 800 and 2200 ohms. As measured with the multimeter set to the appropriate resistance scale, probably 20k ohms.
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