GTSBoy

No oil cooler in my car. Oil peaks at around 110°C on the hottest days. Just don't flog the f**k out of it if it's really hot.

It's just not a good idea. The engine is just f**king huge. It is tall, it is long, it is wide, it is heavy. It doesn't fit under an R32 bonnet without buggering stuff up. A 3.8L Jap V6 would be waaaaay cooler. Lighter, narrower (even though V6), leaving heaps of room for proper cooling. But no. Barra the world.

Just buy from Amayama. You can live without AC for a few weeks. I never even turn mine on in 40+ heat here in Oz.

In southern Australia we get weeks at a time >40°C.

If the bore of the wheel is larger than the spigot on the hub, then yes, you need a ring. It's not completely easy to see what's going on there, but it looks like there's no gap.

Bah! The only thing that would be cheaper is the engine. There are no cheap JZs any more, but basic Barras are almost free. But that barely even begins to scratch the cost of ANY engine conversion, which always costs shit tonnes more than you expect.

Good for drag. Debatable as to whether it is any good for anything else. Arguably a Gen3 makes enormously more sense.

Big transmission cooler. Don't these things have an electronic lockup anyway? So when cruising that's in charge, regardless of whether the converter is in the slip range. Amiright?

Of course they will fit. GTT and GTR are both fork type. Whether the spring and damper rates make sense is a whole 'nother matter. AWD Skylines require very different F-R spring rate differences from each other.

Generally, more lift with a wider lobe nose but no increase in total duration is the best "just better everywhere cam". Harder on the VT of course, but something has got to give.

Nice. I don't think anyone who knows what's what would ever argue that carbies don't make power. It's not as though it's difficult to get the mixtures right at peak power. Getting the mixtures right everywhere is the challenge, along with all the other niceties like idle, accel pumps, etc. Carbs + programmable ignition is no bad thing at all.

Really? Does that not look like an old phone connector?

How much is it fouling? If it's only a small clearance you need, then you can remove some material from the contact spot of the manifold. Or, you could make some other sort of fitting there with the appropriate thread and a short length of stainless tube to take the AN fitting away from the contact spot. Welded together, of course.

If you clean the surface rust off, it will just come back. Just pretend that you never saw it. It's a car, not a sculpture.

I bought a spare ashtray, cut a hole in the back of it and mounted the Profec inside. Close the ashtray lid and you'd never know it was there. Flip it down and the boost controller is right there. Best of both worlds.

Body seam there should NOT look like that.

What is this wear of which you speak? I've never seen a multi-V pulley wear in a meaningful way.

Some notes on the results. Either your technique sucks or there's significant difference in the other parameters of the test (hot vs. lukewarm, etc). This because your cheap gauge read very similar for Cyl1 & 2 but your dad's gauge was very different. With other such differences across the 6 reads also. Assuming we trust your dad's gauge, there is enough variation between the highest and lowest to still be concerning as to the condition of those lower cylinders. And, it is still possible that stuck rings are getting better, at different rates, etc etc.

Hmm. I might have to go take mine out then. I wonder what Matt will say?

You wanna piggyback the ECU or the TCU? Either way, the correct answer is not to piggyback anyything. Just put Nistune in the ECU and win at life.

It's nothing to see 2 - 3 weeks of 40-45°C weather these days. Last year we had it before Christmas!

A little bit, but not 50 psi worth. Direct comparison of the one you have against ANY other compression tester is a good start. It is more likely that two testers that agree are both good than both bad to the same degree. Although it is always best to compare against a trusted unit that is known to read correctly. Once you've done that, the newly tested unit also becomes "trusted" for a while.

It will probably work for what you're looking to make power wise.....but given how poorly Mishimoto radiators seem to perform, I'd be giving everything they make a hard pass in favour of stuff that is known good.

Another of the solutions to problems that don't exist.