GTSBoy

What he said ^. The controls will be the obstacle. The transmission itself will work, but it will not have a long life expectancy. Will never find out if the brains can't talk to each other though.

All decent Skyline rear brakes are vented, all the way down to R32 GTSt.

A CRO is a Cathode Ray Oscilloscope, which is commonly used to diagnose signal problems with CASs. Of course it doesn't have to be an old school CRO these days. You can buy USB cheapies that plug into a computer or phone. And how do you know that the AFM is good? I asked what its voltage was at the trouble point. We need to know if it is saturating at 5V or something equally horrible. You don't have a wideband. You would need to install one up the tailpipe and check the mixtures at the problem point. These are all diagnostic approaches that you need to follow to track down a mystery problem.

Actually, I done f**ked up. It's the RB20 and the 26 that have the separate AAC under the manifold. The vanilla RB25 has the combined unit (but not the same combined unit as the Neo). The AAC is still electrically heated. The IACV is the stepper motor driven one. There's plenty of threads on these on here.

Take the coil and plug out and look for evidence of arcing. You could have a spark leak in there, which could make that click, and of course would feel like a misfire. Clean it all up and maybe try swapping coil to another cylinder to see if it follows. It is VERY unlikely that you would have bent a valve. The cam profiles are reasonably gentle, the valve springs are good for very high revs, and there isn't a history of it being a problem on stockish RB26s. If you have done any damage that has "dropped a valve" it would be more likely that that you had a lean event or pinging that damaged the valve or seat, leading to noise and misfire.

These the squishy rubber ones that are on the body of the car, around the door shut line? Given that there is no window frame, I'd have to guess yes. In which case, the same places stock them. Circa $200 each. Maybe more.

No, AAC and IACV are two different things, unless you have a Neo, in which case they are two different things inside the one unit. IACV is the Idle Air Control Valve. It is the motorised valve controlled by the ECU to control the idle speed to a set point. AAC is the Auxiliary Air Control. It is a thermostatic valve that is open when cold. In earlier cars it is electrically heated so it starts open to provide lots of air for a fast idle when cold, and then closes and the idle speed control then falls back on the ECU & IACV. On the Neo, the AAC is heated by coolant. Both can be dirty and stuck open/closed/anywhere. The IACV is far more likely to be dirty and stuck than the AAC. You would need to look for some pictures of both (use a manual, not Google image search, because most such photos of such valves are mislabelled and you could continue your wrongness, or convert your rightness to wrongness just as easily as it actually helping. FWIW, the AAC is a quite big thing with a hose in and a hose out. The IACV is bolted directly onto the plenum and has what looks like a motor on it.

Usually a dirty IACV.

Which window/door seals? Are you talking about the sealing strips that the window slides down through? If so, they are available at the usual places, RHDJapan, Amayama, JustJap, a Nissan dealer in Washington state via eBay, etc.

What car? I know for a fact that R32 GTSt headlights do not have the attachment points for the GTR grille. Which is why I have GTR headlights on my car. You also either need to destroy your GTSt bonnet or put a GTR bonnet on the car, obviously. And the latch support & upright that goes with the GTR bonnet Can't speak for 33&34. There are non-genuine ways to put GTR-looking grilles onto the RWD cars. Still can't do it on R32 without getting rid of the harelip on the bonnet.

What voltage is the AFM getting to at that point? What does the CRO say about the signal coming off the CAS? What does the wideband say about the mixtures? Have you tested for boost leaks? Is the knock sensor going nuts? Why are your coils in place but the cam covers not?

Don't move the knock sensor, unless you are prepared to reprogram the frequency filters in the ECU to suit the new noises it will hear in the new location. Bite the bullet and lift the manifold.

I might take a hard pass on that!

+ also open all bleed screws that you can find to get air out of trapped spots. RBs have a couple, I would guess that VQs probably would too. YOu don't just open them and leave them. Open and close them regularly while you're leaving it running to bleed up as above. Bubbles will collect at the high points as they come around the system. The screws give you the opportunity to get them out.

Yeah, except that they don't fit 32 or 33 without modifying the rails, and not easy mods either.

I don't care if you use incorrect terminology, so long as we understand what it is that you mean. "Clutch pedal depressed" is much more informative than "clutch in".

Oh, yeah. Absolutely. Except that frequently these things go unnoticed until something like a clutch change. Then, when alerted to the fact that there are mechanical items under the car, the noise gets noticed when crouching down to look, and accidentally hear.

As a diagnostic tool, despite it revealing your problem, I find it horrifying.

Or just live with it, because it doesn't sound that bad to me. My RB25 box sounds like a bulldozer in motion and has done so for 8 years, and probably for 8 years prior to me owning it.

And, from a blonde-behind-wheel perspective, that would be correct. But from a mechanical engineer's perspective (which is the correct one), "clutch in" means that the clutch is actively transferring power, and "clutch out" means that it is not. "Out" being the same as "out of circuit" in an electrical sense. Hence why I tiraded, because the lack of clarity of language in these problem descriptions is a pain in the arse.

My first tip is don't drift your daily. My second tip, is, if you want to drift, then you need a 2-way mechanical LSD. A VLSD is a form of AIDS that you do not need or want. You can buy a Nismo (or other brand) mech centre to put into your existing diff housing using the existing CW&P.

Input shaft bearing is the number one suspect. As BK said - any gearbox makes rollover noise when the engine is idling and the clutch is engaged. (NOTE THAT "ENGAGED" MEANS THAT THE CLUTCH IS TRANSFERRING POWER - NOT THAT THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS PUSHED - just in case of the usual confusion. f**k the use of "in" and "out" to describe what state the clutch is in. What the f**k do those mean anyway?)

Um, they're all pretty old. The first diff you pictured is not even from a Skyline. It is probably not even an R200. If it has 6 bolt (not 5 bolt as previously described) flanges AND is viscous, then it is more than likely out of a Z32, and could be an R230. It's just the wrong diff everywhere. The Laurel diff you show looks to be near perfect - so long as it is an LSD. Do not consider one out of an S chassis - there will be things that you can't handle - the ratio will be very wrong, the stub axles will be wrong and you won't be able to swap them between a VLSD and an open diff (as they are not the same lengths). And lastly - you asked for a "locked diff". What do you mean? Just any old LSD? Must be mechanical LSD? The reason I ask is that VLSDs are weak. They barely offer any LSD action when they are old and when presented with a lot of power. Not that 300HP is a lot of power, but I got rid of my VLSD at that power level because it would just open up under load.

Injector drivers in the ECU could be fried. Open it up and look for burnt tracks and/or MOSFETs.

Yay! It's 2020 and we're having a thread on FU(KING CATCH CANS!