GTSBoy

Most RB engines are a jigsaw puzzle these days. If something can be unbolted and moved, it will.

You probably have another problem.

IACV dirty/stuck open. AAC stuck open. Huge vacuum leak. Throttle stop poorly adjusted. Auto that is stuck in 3rd will also offer even less engine braking than you'd get if it was working properly, which won't help.

But, given that it is still ATESSA, and the pre-load air bleed wire thingo was added at the R33 vintage (having not existed in the earlier R32 vintage ATESSA), it is reasonable to expect that they did not throw the pre-load back on the scrapheap and that you would still need to handle it. It is also reasonable to expect that the m35 ATESSA computer would be smart enough to safely bleed off the pre-load pressure in the case of a fault. Thus, it would be "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd". Pulling the relay, if it triggers a fault that results in the above message, would probably be fine, if that's all it did. But if it also disables other systems on the car then it's probably not a great idea. Beyond that, I don't actually know, I'm merely throwing up some thinking material.

Some of those valves are open. Ergo the cam is installed.

Can only be true if the cam is not installed.

HEIC file not all that openable. Try JPG or PNG or something. f**king phones! I'm not sure you understand what is supposed to happen at TDC. Only #1 and #6 will be at TDC (when you're on the TDC mark on the crank pulley). One will be closed valve, because ignition point, the other will have the valves both open, because it is the overlap period between exhaust and intake, where the ex valve is very nearly closed, and the intake valve is opening. They will be nearly closed, but they will not be closed. The other cylinders will be all over the place. Some valves will be closed, some will be open, reflecting the fact that one is on power stroke, one is on intake, one is on exhaust, and one or more are partway between (ie the ones at BDC are either at end of intake stroke or at end of power stroke).

Are you kidding? I have personally read at least a thousand time on here that the R34 NAs, with the exception of the GTV, all have the same lower damper mounts (eyelets) as the R33 GTST, and the R34 GT-T have the same type as GTRs (fork).

Yes, given the range of physical adjustment available at the CAS. Retarded means "Very f**king Retarded" when it comes to anti-lag. Which is actually a good description of it also.

There's already about a thousand threads on these forums asking the same question. Search.

Un possible. The second quote is why you do not do what you plan in the 1st quote. Don't f**k with the timing blind. Just don't. As to the 15° for manual and 20° for auto. I know that to be true for RB20. I don't know it to be true for 25s, but it could well be. The numbers are freely findable in the manual though...... You CANNOT see the real timing at the ECU. That's why timing lights exist.

In Australia we generally go straight to ACL bearings. We don't fall for the brand name bullshit as often as the Yanks do.

Not real good on R32. 5 is about the most they will swallow without causing issues. The front upper arms HATE even that much caster. The front upper arm bushes will be the leading candidate (if the changed bushings mentioned were in the lower arms). It is a very good idea to consider f**king off the stock upper arms and replacing with GK-Tech. They are a lot of work to live with, but they are f**king excellent.

A 200HP turbo 20 would be faster.

I'll have to argue against Kiwi's psi value. Stock 25 ECUs start getting real cranky after 10 psi. By 12 psi they are heavily into R&R, drinking fuel and making less power than they do at 11, and more often than not hammering the "boost cut" which is not a real boost cut, it works off the AFM signal. But yes, there should be enough fuel available in the ECU mapping at 12 psi to keep the black smoke flowing while the engine chokes on 10:1 AFR. You very likely have 2 problems. The first appears to be a shot fuel pump. You must diagnose and fix that first, because it will destroy your engine faster than the wastegate problem. The wastegate problem is less likely to be the actuator than the wastegate itself being stuck/worn/damaged in some way. But this is very easy to test. You just have to put some compressed air onto the actuator with a pressure gauge teed in to see how much pressure it takes to make it move. It should be fully open by 5 psi. You can dive deeper in and disconnect the actuator from the rod and see how freely the flapper moves. You'll be taking a lot of crap apart to get there, but it will be worth it for you to experience what you have to do to troubleshoot this stuff yourself.

I hope you don't mean an engine rebuild - which is what the rest of the world means when "recondition the engine" is said. There should be no need to do that for the next 10 years.

NOS. Two of the big ones. In al seriousness, an NA RB20 is is no way a performance engine. Transplant it into a lightweight 60s or 70s car and it would be good fun. Get it as the turbo version and it is OK, but still never going to set the world alight. When an RB25DET is equally as easy to get, and makes life 100% nicer, the RB20 makes no sense. So you should either just do nothing to it at all, budget $10k for a full house 10000rpm build (that will only make 300HP anyway and only run from 4000rpm up), add a turbo or blower to it, or budget on outright replacement with an RB25DET. None of these really make sense, when you can go buy an actual turbo Skyline right now.

It's a great idea. A lot of software forums etc have a requirement that you do something like that when requesting help. Based on recent experience here, I would suggest that expectation of the posters is; Problem: Waaaaaaaah. What I have tried: Poking it with a stick. Am I willing to listen to advice: No. Can I keep poking it with a stick? Return to Problem.

Still should have worded that better. What do mean by "different"? Just a physically separate item to the one that you have now? Why? Is it working? Is it broken? Do you need to keep the car on the road at all times or can it be off the road for 2 weeks while you send the turbo to Melbourne to be highflowed? Information is gold.

I'm not an R35 owner, but I think the summary looks like..... Early ones break a lot. Later ones break less. When they break, you pay.

Could be a wide range of other things too. Dirty/f**ked IACV/AAC. Dirty injectors. Big fat vacuum leak. Faulty AFM. Hole in a piston. Burnt valves/seats.

Well, the mental state of someone who built and/or owns that would have to qualify them for disability, wouldn't it?

1 bar is 14.5 psi is 760 mm of mercury. The stock gauge is marked in hundreds of mm of mercury. So the 7 is 700/760 of a bar, which is 0.92 bar or 13.3 psi. True. But your wastegate and/or actuator could be stuffed/sticky and not opening properly, hence giving you big boost until the exhaust manifold pressure rises into stupidland and blows it open a bit more, leading to spike then drop. No, fuel is your first concern. Overboosting while it is lean as shit will KILL your engine. You have to stop doing it until you have diagnosed the lean issue. No. Put a gauge on it. Don't f**k about with crazy secondhand ways of trying to work out what the fuel pressure situation is. Do it properly, measure it directly. Another regulator will not magically make a failing fuel pump work any better anyway!! Fuel pressure gauge gets teed into the fuel line, and you run it out of the bonnet and hold it in your hand/lap/passenger's hand/lap as you drive. If the pressure starts high and plummets on load, you know what's happening. Even better, do it on a dyno. Upstream means up stream, meaning in the direction from which the flow is coming. The fuel pressure is set by the regulator at the outlet of the rail. You can only measure the rail pressure at a position upstream of the reg, which means at the inlet end.

Your English is fine, so don't worry about that. What exactly doesn't work though? Which gauges? Which functions?

Spam is spam dude! Doesn't matter how deep you dig.