GTSBoy

And remember, with all these questions about seats. Aftermarket seats are not roadworthy, even if the seat claims to be "ADR compliant", unless the mounts and rails are unmodified OEM or have been engineered.

You'd have to be tracking the car at the leading edge of a series with serious prizemoney to justify putting brakes that large onto a RWD R chassis.

Do you mean factory seats or aftermarket?

Yes. As are braided lines. Anything that improves pedal feel is a good thing.

Apart from swapping components willy nilly, have you actually looked at what's powered and what's not powered?

No. I just go to must trusted tyre shop and support a local business.

Yokohama AD08R is a good street tyre. I will be going back to these after... Hankook RS4 which started out as a good tyre but is just as noisy now that they are >50% worn as.... Kumho V720, which is a good tyre but it is excruciatingly noisy after the first 2 weeks. All of these are about as sticky as road tyres get without being kidney money. None of them are really suited for keeping 500HP in check in 1st of 2nd. If you're not going to go a 2nd set of rims with dedicated semis, then this is the most sensible territory to be looking in. As the other guys have said, there are other candidates in other manufacturer's ranges.

In other words, slow down the shifts.

There's an enormous difference between "fixing the surface" and "taking off metal to make it actually straight". So the answer depends on what problem you need to be solving with this method.

Without checking for myself, I'm almost certain that is the vac feed to the solenoid valve that then goes to the charcoal canister. I have a question for the OP. Why didn't you just look at the vacuum line diagrams in the workshop manual?

Yeah, nah. I think the N/As only had BM38 MC, which is 7/8" and will work, but the pedal isn't great. Lots of travel.

No. The 2 pot brakes (upgrading from them) would benefit from a bigger MC.

I vote one of the clear acrylic wheels.

There's no difference in the calipers, except the width (and obviously the leg length). So no.

Your formatting is doing nothing for my OCD! Talk about consistency!

Easy Otherwise I vote

Externally venting? You know we're going to point to that as a significant risk to the satisfactory running of your engine. The factory ECU can only handle so much shit done against it.

S13 are Mac strut front end. R chassis are double wishbone. The hubs are not even remotely the same. The rear suspension is the same on both.

If you can wait until the weekend I'll get the scuff plate off and take a photo of a good one.

In an R32, it is above your left knee. Probs the same on an R34. Probably not working having been thrown out by previous owner. So do not be surprised if not finding it.

It's where the noise is coming from.

No. Different pulse rates vs speed. Yes, of course. Although you will almost certainly end up paying for diff setup here, as the pinion from Greg's diff will have to be put onto the R33 diff's input /pinion shaft, because I think that the diffs with front ABS have a longer housing*. (I might be wrong, but it looks like it in various piccies I've seen.)

Objectively, swapping any other twin cam straight 6 into an R chassis Nissan, other than an RB is a bizarre thing to do. A 2JZ makes no sense when you can make a near equivalent RB3025/6. (I briefly considered it before doing my engine conversion on my 32). The JZ engines have the inlet and exhaust on the wrong sides, which just make fitting shit in with the steering etc in the engine bay that much more of a pain. Barra is the same wrong-handedness. It is too tall for the 32 engine bay, which requires shitty things to be done to jam it in. Put in a V6? Sure, there are plenty of reasons to accept the pain of such a conversion. Shorter, lighter all alloy engine bringing the weight back behind the crossmember? I'd be all over that like a fat kid on a mars bar. There are even RWD Nissan options, as horrible as I think the VQs are. Put in a V8? Yup, ditto for the Gen3 (or the bigger ones if you can sneak them in past the authorities). Nissan RWD V8 options exist too, and there's quite a bit possible for making them stronger now too. Can you imagine the amazeballs you would trigger if you put a Chrysler Hemi V8 in? Almost any of those ideas would not trigger the immediate negative reaction of asking about putting a Barra in. Because they have results which would justify the work, not just a brute force and ignorance taxi motor.

I hate to tell you this, but the dressed weights of all these engines have been posted on the internet many times. You just need to look harder. And no. I'm not going to do it for you.