GTSBoy

In that case CIG make an excellent diff.

If you like the roughest nastiest LSD option, then sure. There are a number of others that are nicer to live with.

But, you may be able to do something equivalent. ie, make a plug that can replace it.

Aaaah.

Undo engine mounts and......

First world country that is smaller than most states in Australia. Just drive to a place that can build you a line. I can think of 15 places within a 1hr drive of where I live that will build a power steering line for me. All of them industrial hydraulic places. You should tell your weenie TUV koolaid drinking Euro regulators to shut up and just let people make a hydraulic hose.

Tells the ECU that you're loading up the engine. Wiring diagram tells all.

You can test if the factory one is opening under boost by simply blocking it off with a coke can gasket. You're not looking for the differences anywhere except when making boost.

NS70MF 650 CCA. This is essentially the physically largest and largest capacity battery you can drop into the stock location.

Is that true - as in outright replacement, or is it just the pro-rata replacement?

Century Yuasa.

Yes, absolutely.

Sump vent, rather than wasting money on the PRP rear head drain. The oil control thread tells all. Oil cooler?

Yeah, but only with appropriate adapters at each end. Kinda makes the use of AN fittings on the end of the hose itself a bit of a waste of time.

How could you make it out of AN fittings when there are not AN fitting on the PS pump or the rack? You have whatever fittings Nissan put on there. But these will just be a hydraulic fitting of one sort or another, so if you took the PS line into a hydraulic hose doctor place, they should be able to knock something up.

Some stupid biatch been driving around with the brake on.

Some crowd like this https://www.activeservice.no/services

As Kinkstaah said above. The turbo box is about double the weight of the NA box. You do know that you can google these things, right? Google up the RB25DE gearbox and look at the images. Then same for the turbo box. There are even photos of them side by side. About 4000000000 words have been written about these things on this forum in the last 25 years and that when you google you will get an endless stream of hits right here.

Must be time to bump this.

When you say "intact", do you mean "it's there and it's bent", or "it's not damaged at all"? Because if it is not damaged at all then you repair does start to sound like what you want it to be. You may still have to straighten some stuff up to get guards and bumper to line up, because there is obvious damage on the LH front corner. But if the rad support is bent, then obviously it will need to be straightened, and if it is bent then the front end of the chassis rails might not be straight either. In which case your repair is going to take some proper chassis work.

Cracks not required.

Are you in the right thread?

Tappy tap tap.

It also appears to be mostly FWD.

If it's missing at idle because something (a coil or the igniter) is hot then you can try to cool each one down with compressed air while it's missing to see if it comes good.