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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Um. What about the traction control throttle, motor and position sensor? Stock ECU won't be amused without it. Making a connection for the boost sensor is a triviality by comparison. Drill and tap a hole and put in a nipple. But "mostly stock" and your description of the shit that has been done to the car are somewhat worrying. Your photo came up as I was typing. That is not a nipple. That is a piece of line that runs under the crossover pipe. You can see the other end of it on the front side, next to the mounting bracket. It's the passthrough for vacuum to the charcoal canister.
  2. I don't get it. Is it your plan to have both your turbos connected up to both exhaust manifolds? As in, the existing crossover pipe is still there, you're just hanging the GT30 off the same exhaust supply as the GT42? In that case, you are wrong about how it will work. You will to be lucky to spool either turbo, because each one will just be a bloody big wastegate for the other one! If your plan is to have the GT30 just running from only one bank, while the GT42 is running off the other bank, with both boosting into the same inlet system, then you are in for a different version of shit. The GT30 will then indeed be boosted by a 1.9L engine (a pretty shitty 1.9L engine though, not making as much flow as 1.8L of Honda). But that bank of the engine will be receiving the same boost as the other bank, whilst having a much tighter exhaust flow path. So the two halves of the engine won't be making anywhere near the same power. And, if you plan to have all sorts of exhaust and/or boost switchover valving to try to make it work, then you're back in the Toyota/Mazda sequential world I was talking about, and I wish you luck.
  3. Because....2 different sized turbos implies a sequential system. An inexperienced hobbyist setting up a sequential system from scratch sounds like hilarity. Toyota and Mazda spent millions on their systems and never really got it right. So, I'll assume you're not doing a sequential system. I'll also assume you're not doing a true compound system, seeing as the turbos appear to be planned to be on opposite sides of the engine. And also because low boost and high boost numbers quoted appear to be about 1/4 of the values that you'd expect for compound. So, maybe just two stage compression? In which case, the GT30 is mahoosivley oversized. Either that or the GT42 is. Well, at least one side of each of them, probably. So, then I make a sensible suggestion of binning the additional turbo and putting an original M90 supercharger back into the Ecotec system and properly twincharge it. This actually makes a lot of sense because it will do what you suggest (fill the torque hole caused by the GT42) but.....if proper sequential is out of the question, then proper twincharging is also probably out of the question. And all of those thoughts went through my mind prior to posting my first response, and it all seemed too hard, so I just copped out and made the post I did.
  4. I came in here to post something, but, for the life of me, I can't see how I can say anything that would be useful.
  5. Yes. I have no idea about your neck of the woods. But here you can get them from GK-Tech, and probably many others. They are fairly common. In my experience, all the readily available boots do most of the job, but only most, not all. They still allow grease to get out and they still allow crap to get in. So they help, but they're not perfect. I have none on the front of my caster rods and I have made some covers out of 0.8mm thick clear PVC sheet and some velcro tie.
  6. CF bonnet not road legal, in case it matters to you.
  7. Toe out at the rear might be good for drifting, but it will make it nervous and scary on the street. I have zero toe at the rear of my car right now and I will be going back to 0.5mm toe in next time I align it. Toe out at the rear does not make the car oversteer biased. It just makes the rear end unstable and ready to change direction at the merest whiff of a steering input or a bump or a camber change or a butterfly farting on the other side of the plant. Toe out at the front does nothing to change the steering balance of the car. If it is otherwise understeery then it will remain so regardless of how you set the front toe. Same if it is already oversteery. I have zero toe set at the front at the moment and I would not be changing it to toe out for a street car for love nor money. I had toe out on my ALFA 116 many years ago. Completely different car - and it was a good thing. Won't be doing it on a Skyline any time soon. Rear camber is slightly adjustable with the stock upper arms. Eccentric bolts. You can buy lower arms to provide camber adjustment, but I am baffled that you have not sen the myriad of adjustable upper arms for Nissan rear ends. You can't even open an eBay page in a browser without being assaulted by recommendations for all the cheap-arse no-name Chinese ones available. Anyway, the easiest way to adjust camber at the rear is to buy a good quality upper arm (and the traction arm) from a trusted brand. Top wishbone. As above. The toe arm (either the HICAS tie rod or the eliminator kit's toe rod) allow you to set the toe. This is the ONLY arm that allows you to SET the toe. Changing any other arms length will also CHANGE the toe. You cannot set the toe and then change the camber without going back and fixing the change that that will make to the toe. Trust me. The traction arm is critically important with respect to to in one major way. It controls the change in toe angle as the suspension moves through the arc of its up-down travel. This is called bump steer. This is why I said above that if you change to an adjustable upper arm to set camber, you also have to change to an adjustable traction rod. If you leave the traction rod at stock length and change the camber arm's length, you will introduce a horrendous amount of bump steer. Bump steer is bad. You can never really have zero bump steer, but the suspension needs to be set up with the MINIMUM amount of bump steer. Here's the best bit. Unless you build your own bump steer measuring device, you can't even see it, let along measure it. I built a bump steer gauge and used it on my car recently, only to find that I already had my traction arms set to a satisfactory length to keep bump steer to a minimum. No. Compression means when the wheel moves up into the wheel well for any reason at all. Launch will do it. Bumps will do it. Cornering (body roll) will do it. Rod ends and poly bushes. Rod ends have no give in them at all. They are the roughest and toughest way to connect suspension pieces together. They offer the firmest and tightest control of location. They are unforgiving. They are noisy. They are not really good for a road car (although I now have a number of them on my car). They wear out. They need to be protected from grit and dirt. They need lubrication and cleaning (despite what the vendors may say). They are for race cars. On the road they increase the amount of maintenance you need to do on the suspension by a factor of about 10. Poly bushes are soft and flexible compared to rod ends but generally much tighter than the original rubber bushes on most cars. They are a good compromise for a street car. They need proper lubrication and will often need to be re-lubricated at various points through their life, or they will gall up and die. With many adjustable arms these days it is also possible to get them with tough rubber bushes, which are also a sensible compromise for a street car.
  8. But....a CV is a CV is a CV. If there is anyone that can rebuild any CV in your country then that is all you need. It's not a tough mechanical problem.
  9. And what is the process in getting a mod plate? Assessment by an engineer?
  10. They are. The 4x ABS wheel speed sensors are also a significant input into the ATTESSA CU and the A-LSD. I wouldn't have thought that messing with the front ones would cause the A-LSD to freak out, but anything is possible. If there is nothing physically wrong with the CV joints in those shafts, then it is fair to assume that the different widths of the lands on the tone rings is responsible for the freak out.
  11. I didn't say that it would stop it from starting though. What does the timing light say about the ignition timing?
  12. Better to just go through the thread first. There's 30 years of experience in there.
  13. There's a whole thread on wheels fitting Skylines. Stickied up the top of the appropriate part of the forum. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/
  14. The standard ECU thinks that there should be a TCS/ABS ECU present. If there is not, there will be fault codes. The TCS/ABS CU, if it is present, will be freaking out because you have lopped off its throttle motor and position sensor. There will also be ECU fault codes because of this. Nistune is the only way to make a standard ECU work nicely under this level of abuse. The Neo ECU is fairly obsessive compulsive about a few things.
  15. They both move air from front to back.
  16. Is the fuel rail plumbed up the right way? And, if you have the stock ECU, and you have deleted the original TB, including the traction control TB, then you are in for a world of pain. You will have to Nistune the ECU to get rid of the CEL.
  17. Still not clear what you want. Are you wanting the size of the stock GTR cap where it goes into the stock wheel? Are you wanting the size of the cap that would suit your wheels (presuming that you don't have GTR wheels)? Are you wanting to know how big the GTR text font is?
  18. No. The OP6 is on the turbine housing, not the turbine. The housing could have been machined out/reprofiled in a highflow operation to suit a completely different turbine inside. As Duncan said, you have to know what is in the core also, to know whether it is still completely stock.
  19. Everything you would want to know about the wiring for this is in the R32 GTR wiring diagrams in the freely downloadable workshop manual.
  20. And the whole idea of TCF is a bullshit anyway. We all generally work on the idea that a DD roller dyno will read about 75% of the engine power at the rollers. That is NOT lost in the transmission. Some of it is, but the bulk of it is lost at the rollers. There is tyre slip and deformation on any roller. A huge amount of energy is lost to friction. If you don't tie the car down hard then you lose more to slip. If you do tie it down real hard, you 'll lose less to slip, but lose some more to deformation of the tyre. (I would suggest that deformation is a much smaller proportion than slip though). AWD rollers have the opportunity to lose more power at the rollers, because 2x the number of rollers. But....with the same amount of engine power, because the power is less at each roller, there will be much less slip at each roller. So AWD cars might lose a bit more power than a 2WD car, but they could also lose a little less. Probably lose more in big power applications and lose less in low power, but I'm just guessing. The 2WD thing was then further confused by people saying that the losses in FWD transmissions are less than in RWD transmissions. Now, whether that is true or not is not really important, because most of the power "lost" is still lost at the tyre-roller interface, not in the transmission. So out of the 25% "loss" that we pretend is a constant for RWD cars, maybe only 5-10% of it is in the transmission. And if FWD cars are more efficient in the transmission, then you might only save 1% out of that. So the total losses should still be in the region of 25% for FWD cars too. The real situation is certainly nothing like saying RWD cars lose 25%, FWD cars only lose 15-20% and AWD cars lose 30-35%. Because those statements simply cannot be true in general. It is close enough for RWDs on DD dynos. It might be a little different for RWDs on other roller dynos (due to calibration differences, roller diameter differences, roller surface texture differences, etc). It is definitely different on Amercian roller dynos, which have an input field in the software for "How much power did you want?" And I won't talk about inertia dynos because they suck. Hub dynos are great because all the tyre-roller losses just go away. You measure power much more close to what the engine is capable of, less only that which is turned into heat in the drivetrain. And that number is nowhere near as big as people think it is. If it was, then a 500HP car would boil the oil in a typical diff in a single dyno pull. Certainly after a few repeated pulls. It doesn't happen, therefore the losses in the drivetrain are smaller than people think.
  21. http://gtr-registry.com/en-nissan-skyline-r33.php
  22. Nope. You have to get rid of rust before covering it up. Now it can continue to eat steel behind the cover of hammerite.
  23. Not possible unless you f**k up the bleeding. What do the ratios of piston areas look like, Sumitomo caliper vs Evo caliper? Surely you did this research before you bought the kit.
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