GTSBoy

No, it has to have "E Brake Handle Brake Drift Spin Turn Knob Lock Button" in the description.

What? Nismo are the same shit as that Sard shit. Bosch, Denso, Siemens et al have all been producing newer design injectors over the 20 years since those Sards were state of the art (if they ever were). Any Bosch EV14 based injector is going to be a millions times better. Shit, even an EV6 based injector will be nearly 2 decades newer tech. There are hundreds of vendors selling EV14 or equivalent Denso (and other manufacturers) injectors with conversion plugs, rail spacers, and flow matched sets. Here's just one example in Australia, at Goleby's https://www.golebysparts.com.au/products/rb26-bpp-fuel-rail-kit-bosch-1000cc-injectors-fpr800-fuel-regulator?variant=31930369081453

I would suggest a few things; Do not make any presumptions about fuel pressure without a fuel pressure gauge fitted. It is so easy to do, and answers so many questions or at least stops you worrying about things that are not real. A vehicle posture cause for rough idle is far more likely to be some air leak somewhere, opening up at that angle, closing up when flat. Or maybe a PCV valve or something flopping into a stuck open/closed position.

I would only use it to fire a Gurney's water heater.

The injection/atomisation quality on new design injectors is much better than those shitty of 555s. Why would you voluntarily stick with shitty injectors?

Wow.

Resistor in place of sensor. 470 kOhm, IIRC.

No. Question. What diff does it have in it? Stock VLSD shouldn't act the way you describe, but if some arsehat has shimmed it, then it could act incorrectly. If it has a mechanical LSD in it, then the behaviour you describe sounds typical. Note that it is important that you know what sort of diff you have in it, because stock VLSD does not want LSD oil (wants normal diff oil) and mechanical LSD definitely needs LSD oil. If it's not in the diff, then other causes for the stuff you talk about include worn out CV joints.

Surely there is little to no difference to other Nissan caps from the same era? J31 Maxima with the same sort of engine, for example. In which case, the Tridon catalogue points you to a rad cap number of CB1390. So you walk up to the Tridon rack at Supercheap/wherever with your V36 rad cap in hand and see if it looks the same, has the same rating. if it does, you buy it. If it doesn't, you look at the other options that you will have pre-planned by skuzzing through the Tridon catalogue to look for other Nissan models from the same period that might be similar. I mean, it's not as if rad caps are a high technology model specific thing.

Is the left rear tyre bald yet?

In that case CIG make an excellent diff.

If you like the roughest nastiest LSD option, then sure. There are a number of others that are nicer to live with.

But, you may be able to do something equivalent. ie, make a plug that can replace it.

Aaaah.

Undo engine mounts and......

First world country that is smaller than most states in Australia. Just drive to a place that can build you a line. I can think of 15 places within a 1hr drive of where I live that will build a power steering line for me. All of them industrial hydraulic places. You should tell your weenie TUV koolaid drinking Euro regulators to shut up and just let people make a hydraulic hose.

Tells the ECU that you're loading up the engine. Wiring diagram tells all.

You can test if the factory one is opening under boost by simply blocking it off with a coke can gasket. You're not looking for the differences anywhere except when making boost.

NS70MF 650 CCA. This is essentially the physically largest and largest capacity battery you can drop into the stock location.

Is that true - as in outright replacement, or is it just the pro-rata replacement?

Century Yuasa.

Yes, absolutely.

Sump vent, rather than wasting money on the PRP rear head drain. The oil control thread tells all. Oil cooler?

Yeah, but only with appropriate adapters at each end. Kinda makes the use of AN fittings on the end of the hose itself a bit of a waste of time.

How could you make it out of AN fittings when there are not AN fitting on the PS pump or the rack? You have whatever fittings Nissan put on there. But these will just be a hydraulic fitting of one sort or another, so if you took the PS line into a hydraulic hose doctor place, they should be able to knock something up.