GTSBoy

What he sed ^. V6 and I6 layouts determine what makes the most sense for each.

15 psi on Splitfires with stock gap is trivial.

Copper plugs should last you for years in that application.

Why would it be hard? Just wire the fan to (fused) power, ground and the overheat temp switch.

IACV likely too dirty to work, or other similar problems involving IACV.

Meh. Whether it's a detent or not depends on why it's there, I suppose!

Viscous LSD is not a mechanical LSD. The "LSD" part of it is a viscous coupling which is a sealed unit with its own silicone fill fluid inside it. Every mechanical gear part of a VLSD is just the same as a normal diff, so you do not need to use LSD oil in them. The reason you need to use special oil for mechanical LSDs is that they rely on friction to do their thing. Oils are kinda all about not doing the friction thing. So you need different friction modifiers in LSD oils. Mechanical LSDs work. Viscous LSDs do not.

Yeah, I dunno. Depends on what you're talking about. I've not handled any of them for the feature you're calling a detent to be familiar to me.

Fill it until it starts to dribble out of the fill point (with the car level, of course).

Any good diff oil will do for the standard LSD, which is not a real LSD so does not need LSD oil. edit. Kiwi beat me to the details.

Well, clearly that one is dreaming.

This. I came here to say the same. Car is quite likely to run hot due to the crappy rad. Keep $500 on hand for a Fenix, or better, for when you can no longer stand it.

Oh. Yes. My bad. sort of.

Except that almost every Skyline that is for sale is already worn out in every way possible. The only Skylines that are in good condition are not currently for sale. They are being kept.

R33s don't have a MAP sensor that reports to the ECU. Explain?

Le sigh.

The fuse protects the wires in that circuit. Clearly one of those wires or a device attached to those wires has a pretty good short to ground. Dig out the multimeter and start looking for ground where there shouldn't be. You will also need the wiring diagram and will likely need to unplug a lot of loom plugs.

No. You said you had it on hand. The logical suggestion then was to recommend that you do some work yourself to compare rack A with rack B, instead of just doing the Gen Y bleat on a forum. It's not my fault that you didn't tell the truth.

The joke here is that I copied and pasted the title of your thread into google!

Crazy 1980's tech in-line amplifier. Speaker level into it and "amplified" inside it. Used to be a graphic equaliser and LED display that got bolted under the dash in Datto Stanzas back in 1985.

My post from earlier was >>50% of car value at the time. All insurers are different. That was with Just Car at the time, they were perfectly willing to pay to repair it at the fraction of insured value that it was at, but would have struggled to justify if it became any more expensive. Shannons, being another even more "classic & unusual" insurers, would and should be just as willing. I will caveat my statement though. My repair was not at fault, even though it was front end damage like (but much worse than) the OP's. So my insurer was working for me and my interests and was willing to put up a fight against the other party's insurer to make them pay. If the OP's to blame for his damage, then he might not get treated quite as nicely.

literally less than 1 second of googling https://www.efisolutions.com.au/water-pipe-spigot-rear-rb25det-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc3

In all seriousness, why do you not just go jack the car up and hold the 34 one under the 33 one and have a look for yourself?

It will work. It is the very definition of it will work.

I think the best way to deal with the boost sensor's inherent upper limit would be to treat it like a wastegate and put a bleed valve on it. You put a restriction between the plenum source and the sensor, and bleed some boost out of the sense line between that restriction and the sensor. Just like a wastegate, the sensor will see a lower boost than the engine does. If you need to run 25 psi, you just bleed that down to <18 psi and it will still do what it is supposed to do.