GTSBoy

There are screws.

Because of the size (width) of the cone vs. the diameter of the thread. It's massively oversized.

uncool

Works for me?

Nah, he means a thottle controller to overcome the crappy pedal to plate mapping in the default ECU program. As a band-aid instead of actually fixing the ECU mapping directly.

That depends entirely on how dirty the fuel going through it is. I've had my R32 for 20 years. Hmm. Maybe more. I have probably only changed the fuel filter a couple of times. The last time I can remember was when the engine conversion happened, which is about 8 years ago.

If by "they are a bitch to get out" you mean it takes about 2 minutes, then yes.

I like it. I'm not normally a fan of colour flip paint, but that looks like a good choice for an R32. I think your choice of wheels is going to become critical to how it ends up looking. Something black would be an obvious choice, but I'm sure something in a metallic colour (not a shiny silver) will also work.

Fuel filter is above the HICAS solenoids in the engine bay. In front of / below the master cylinders.

These are even better. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WIFI-Endoscope-2MP-8mm-Borescope-Inspection-Camera-iPhone-Android-PC-1-2-3-5-5M/173329596774?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item285b3fc166:g:AFkAAOSwpz9dv3ix&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkSG%2BOFgrj2Yvbvmrj2TAdM3ty3%2F%2Freo7GvEhJ%2FLJgxe0hLHrR1YiB1ORj2c4aS75TbwEz9gk1w2jKxvHXQAJO4OBlqVNhZrsjZ8E30JZ5LlrZbckIEyT%2B%2FRVC%2B7T6xRfqt3scF0sgd9%2B8go1oHcgLZkwu9wKbdvohfW1OMZ47NB1TkK1z4uGbSdmCOZwOZZKeBJei0ZAk4R%2F0GK5tNyJzL5ESQvME9DefCS0%2B2%2Fj2t4ao%2BEvv6N0DjYOZSv4UgaJr7w0%2FBTjdxE%2Bgh%2B3YxMwLRvAjQ6lwo9w2opSPkAz5B14kvjNi7sU2OiYllZeFascWyBpdK3sthdKVjNa3KF4Makz6bzfK29e%2BWGjaImsFm513uVHt2fCJtwLWvmgkHHcIaDTJIRrmQb1qPIVcYbGIKqeYP%2FT5vJV%2BVGufbiBKMri3bV5xJVqIMCCabiTh0ylRhMEdOnlZsfZmtwr4c%2Be36sWfTWn3dsTnjWTiidEEwTx%2BM2FEBKKtKuH6hVExHFn7JZ8q5FwihFwzMl34N3GSkUp0Oey0MIbEVEmXtrNLSYdGghZPS48%2FIHYr8lT04i5fLwdyl83lJOatQenIs9Jp4nz3tLa8e9gG58bw0Rkd0iezf40VF7XzRRhoqxezKZgV6htXq6GrEmWQKxkuCGVhF2wjL3NQlfdYUiUePK%2FgBsM6cf8Uz0E22ozBnlezevwqZCvVuxFhDupcqhfF7ek5lC3QuVn%2BxI%2FIKV1MfeJW%2BY%2FIt8bZ6CTpy1iOUxvqLgLtllzt%2BL0jeXc1rBngiFXaYw%3D%3D&checksum=17332959677459b5603bb363429682c0a2d0cd693291&frcectupt=true But really, just opening the top, poking a torch inside and using a naked eyeball is more than enough.

This is probably the first time that that has been clear. Sounds like it is f**ked. Throw it away, and buy an RB20E R33 Skyline.

The maps might well be different, but once you Nistune it (and you really should) you can put any image and any map in it you like. Auto, manual, Stagea, R34, etc.

The end of the brake pipe is flared. That forms the female part of the cone seat. The male part of that is either buried in the bottom of the threaded hole (say on a caliper, MC, prop valve) or in the other fitting, if is just some coupling fitting somewhere partway along a line. The "nut" that is on the brake line has a male thread that screws into the female thread (on the caliper, etc) and pushes on the back side of the flared end of the pipe, pushing it against the male flare. So, it is a tapered seal, as per your discarded throwaway line at the end of your post. Simples, squeak. Or were you being ironic?

Should be same enough.

Because an o-ring is a cushion that prevents the male fitting from pulling up hard on the external seat of the connection, unless the o-ring is deformed beyond intended design in that conical seat. That seat is not designed for an o-ring. AN fittings do not look like that. Parallel threads are of course completely normal on collar type fluid couplings that have conical metal on metal seats. This is not the same situation.

CFL backlight probably gone to the crapper.

Well, it kinda is. They've used a thread that looks about the same as a 1/8" pipe thread, but isn't. Then you either have to use their fitting or go out of your way to get a fitting that has that thread on it, which has got to be about 100x more difficult than just getting something with a 1/8". But then it wouldn't tighten up. You'd be relying on a threadlocking compound to stop the fitting backing out.

Yes, and look at the conical seat on that port. It is clearly meant to work with a bespoke fitting that has that cone on it. Seems silly, when everybody else would just use a 1/8" NPT or BSP parallel in there, with a tapered fitting. I mean, good on the yanks for doing something, anything, in metric. But dumbo points for using a metric bolt thread for a f**king plumbing fitting.

There's not really any such thing as "metric pipe threads". When we're talking about screw in fittings, and elbows and Tees that go onto pipe, etc etc, there is really only 2 dominant threads. BSP and NPT. The Yanks, the oil & gas industry and a few others are stuck on NPT. The rest of the world pretty much uses BSP. The Europeans call BSP threads by other names though. If you see a German company describing a threaded port or stub on their equipment, they will call it G1/2" or G15 (same thing). And there are other variations on the theme. M8 is a bolt thread specification. It is really not relevant to "plumbing" fittings. People don't use metric bolt thread forms for tapered male into female sealing threads. They may well use metric bolt thread forms on collars of fittings that use seats to seal (like Swagelok or other similar pneumatic or hydraulic fittings) but they are just as likely to be imperial/American or totally custom in those systems, seeing as they are usually proprietary anyway.

I'd be very willing to try a HGT 6 speed.

But we don't think of them as a Corvette engine. They were a family car engine here. They're lying around in piles. Much better idea than trying to upgrade to any RB option.

Just one more thing on the list of sketchy looking things with that car.

Yes. Basically the same thing. No, because AWD. Why bother? Break the gearbox, then replace engine and gearbox with LS1 & T56.

The Neo is the smart choice.