GTSBoy

You don't really torque studs in the head. You just screw them in (until they stop) and the nut that clamps the manifold pulls on both ends of the stud when you torque it up.

Yuh, that filter clearly meant to go on the block, assuming that the hose in the photo is both ends of the same hose.

Yeah. Nah.

The definition of polyquad is to have one large and one small valve on each of the inlet and exhaust, with the large ones diagonally opposite each other. The intention is to have more flow in through the larger intake which will create a swirl and then the outflow through the exhaust will be higher through the large exhaust valve also, continuing the swirl and at the very least leaving the remaining gas in the cylinder swirling as the inlet opens and starts flowing again. You have to have quite extreme differences in valve sizes for it to really work. It's not something that you will see much out of with 1mm size differences (IIRC the original work, which by Vizard, I think. if not him, then someone equivalent).

Isn't the more important question "how do they compare to the even better options available from Australian and NZ cam manufacturers?" Or the other question, "even amongst those who are wedded to using Jap brand cams, who has used HKS or Jun cams instead of Tomei?"

VQ30DET makes no sense. 1. It's older, so you won't get it legal. 2. It's just another bloody VQ engine. Better off just slapping turbos onto the VQ35 you have. VK makes sense, because V6s are gross, and V8s are not. You should work out the max capacity you can have by the NCOP rules and see if you shouldn't be planning on the largest VK (the 56). I'd suggest it should be feasible, because you can drop LS engines into these things, and they are larger capacity. If going V8, then smaller/lighter/better makes more sense. Smaller, lighter and better than the VK, I mean. That means LS. I would be looking for an LS2 or LS3 myself. All alloy, narrower, easier to fit. Remember that the VQ you have is a 60° engine. The VK is a 90° engine and its heads are quite wide.

Nah, it's an RB20E, so it's in a dizzy.

1. Hardrace are good. Just stick with them. 2. What bushes where? Oh, you mean the choice between Hardrace hard rubber or sphericals? Stay with rubber. Use poly if you're replacing OEM rubber bushes elsewhere. Hardmount the subframe to the car if you want to be hardcore. Same with diff. 3. GKTech. Watch the recent Motive DVD series on the R33 GTR rear subframe rework. Particularly with respect to the relocation of the front lower mounting points. If you are going to be doing anything to an R32 GTR subframe, then this is a mod you should make while you have the opportunity.

Turbo timers are unreliable pieces of shit that cause all sorts of forum posts titled "My N/A R33 won't start!!!111one!juan".

Do not worry about sparks in fuel tanks.

Running a V engine with only 1 bank powering the turbine would be daft. Massively different tunes required for each bank, to account for the massive backpressure on the one with turbine.

And this is something that you cannot do for yourself? After all, it only needs doing if the car has been working the turbo a bit hard in the last couple of minutes before stopping. It hardly needs to be run to cool down on about 95% of stops.

If I had a harness that was already completely f**ked up like that, I would not hesitate to just cut it all off and start crimping on some bullets. I mean, shit. It's a f**king 25+ year old Jap shitter that's already been disrespected by any number of people. Pull their crap out and start again.

What he sed ^. V6 and I6 layouts determine what makes the most sense for each.

15 psi on Splitfires with stock gap is trivial.

Copper plugs should last you for years in that application.

Why would it be hard? Just wire the fan to (fused) power, ground and the overheat temp switch.

IACV likely too dirty to work, or other similar problems involving IACV.

Meh. Whether it's a detent or not depends on why it's there, I suppose!

Viscous LSD is not a mechanical LSD. The "LSD" part of it is a viscous coupling which is a sealed unit with its own silicone fill fluid inside it. Every mechanical gear part of a VLSD is just the same as a normal diff, so you do not need to use LSD oil in them. The reason you need to use special oil for mechanical LSDs is that they rely on friction to do their thing. Oils are kinda all about not doing the friction thing. So you need different friction modifiers in LSD oils. Mechanical LSDs work. Viscous LSDs do not.

Yeah, I dunno. Depends on what you're talking about. I've not handled any of them for the feature you're calling a detent to be familiar to me.

Fill it until it starts to dribble out of the fill point (with the car level, of course).

Any good diff oil will do for the standard LSD, which is not a real LSD so does not need LSD oil. edit. Kiwi beat me to the details.

Well, clearly that one is dreaming.

This. I came here to say the same. Car is quite likely to run hot due to the crappy rad. Keep $500 on hand for a Fenix, or better, for when you can no longer stand it.