GTSBoy

Take the door apart, look inside, see what's broken/dislodged, and fix it.

If it is a stock form spring going into the stock spring seat, but without the rubber insulator, then it will likely be quite a lot noisier. This from the generous contact area of a stock form spring up against the large diaphragm of the perch. If the spring is lowered & stiffer, that loss of 10mm or so of installed compression may make it just possible for the spring to become non-captive at full droop, which will probably be fine 99.99% of the time but every now and then it is a recipe for disaster.

Same same.

You could enquire about either Mallala or The Bend. Hiring the whole facility just to use the straight for some testing would probably be horrifically expensive. But you may be able to work in with someone else who is hiring the track, either for engineering/testing purposes of their own, or a club track day where you could arrange to have the straight at lunchtime, say.

Whether or not it is external gate and whether or not the gate is plumbed back in would have to be the biggest contributor to the noise. Beyond that I can't help you. As I would be 100% oriented in the other direction from your priorities. How it works matters >> than how it sounds.

There is dead, and there is dead. What part of the alternator has died? Rectifier? Winding gone open? Dirty commutator? Diagnose properly, then fix. If this means taking it to a sparky, then do so.

Or the worst thing that can happen is that the outer has slipped on the pulley.

Personally, I always like to make sure what has actually died before splashing out on a new one.

Yuh, moderately poor retrim job.

Vacuum leak.

Oops yes. 9". No matter. What's a half inch between friends?

An FFP is akin to an FFS!

They're definitely not for any R of S chassis Nissan, that's for sure. Vendor is a fu(kwit.

Um.... the 19" part of it should make no difference to this problem at all. Although it does depend on what exactly is hitting where. But first.....8" wide wheels with a +30 offset should fit without hitting anything. People put R33 GTR wheels on these cars all the time. They are 17x8 +30. No problems. Usually an 8" wide wheel will be done with a +35 or +38 offset which would be MORE LIKELY to hit the suspension than a +30 would, and these are fine too. And no, the difference between 17" and 19" wheels should not make any difference here. Again, except for one issue, which we will cover next. 19" wheels with 245/40 tyres on them have a total diameter of 678.6mm. The more-or-less-correct size for these cars is a 235/45 on a 17" rim (or other combos that are approximately the same). That size wheel & tyre has an OD of 643.3mm. So the tyres you're trying to squeeze into that wheel well are 35mm overall bigger, or they stick out radially from the centre of the hub by an extra 17mm. So this is where we come back to where I said earlier, "It depends on what exactly is hitting where". Now, I refuse to believe that any part of the wheel is hitting on anything (so long as the wheel specs you have given are correct). But I am perfectly willing to believe that the tyre diameter is just too big and you are able to hit stuff that you shouldn't if you have the correct size tyre. The correct size tyre, at 245 wide on that 19" rim, would be 235/35. That would give an OD of 647mm, which is only slightly bigger than "correct". There aren't really any alternatives around those sizes that won't be either drastically too wide or too small in sidewall height.

Can you wind the engine over by hand? Either at the crank bolt or by pushing the car in gear. Reason I ask, is, if it's not low voltage and it's not the starter, then the engine may be seized or full of water.

RPM is pulses. The pattern should be shown in the workshop manual. I can't be arsed looking it up. Fuel level is a resistor.

Compression ring failure <> oil control ring failure. Could be ring/bore wear or valve guides. Take it apart and find out.

I thought R33 GTR was same as 32. My bad. Just put R33 lid on 32 ECU?

Unless it was just the brake pedal clevis adjuster that was cranked too long.

What are you talking about? The part number remains the same. On an RB26 ECU, you pull the lid off, rip out the original EEPROM/processor (depending on ECU model) and install the Nistune board (which does involve a little more fiddling than I make it sound). Then you put the lid back on. From the outside, you cannot tell. Anyone who does not know what a daughterboard is for would not even recognise what had happened to the ECU if you showed them the inside.

And this is why Nistune is the win. It looks stock. It behaves exactly as if it was stock, unless the tune is modified. You can put the stock tune in it for emissions testing and then you can put a good tune back in it afterwards. What is not to like?

Plus, Nistune is almost undetectable.

Check voltage at big 12V terminal on the starter. If it is too low, then your cable/connections is/are bad. If it is essentially the same as the battery, then the big power switch in the solenoid is likely to be f**ked up.

DIY wiring.

Just quoting this for its intrinsic value.