GTSBoy

You have no options. Sills and inner rails. Sills using suitable adapters to grab the seam and push up on the hard points only. Inners with lumps of wood to spread the load. If it were being done in a workshop it would be done on a 2 post hoist supported at the sills. The sills are in fact strong enough, especially at the rear where there is less weight, particularly while the subframe is actually out. But you have to use adapters. Look at the top of your scissor jack. That is what you need.

'sif there's any difference!

Jeesus. If you can't make nearly 300HP with a 2 litre 24 valve modern engine like a 20Neo then you should set fire to it. They used to make nearly that much from 2 valve 4 cylinder engines with dirty dribbly Webers on them. You won't need any RB25 parts for this. Just weld up the cams and regrind to 300° total duration and 11mm of lift, relieve the cam bores and do something to stop the shims from jumping out. Port the bejeezus out of it and get the compression up to 11:1. Job done.

That sounds right, but I'm sure it is very clearly described in the tuning guide.

My R32 has perfect sills. Scissor jack used correctly will not damage the sills. Even with a gap. I wouldn't use a trolley jack on the sills without a correctly fitting adapter, and pump it up slowly. But that's just common sense regardless of whether there are real or perceived problems with the structure.

No. Take it to a mechanic who has a PROPER scan tool. Made by Snap-On, or any of the other $10000+ workshop grade scan tools that will connect to and read from EVERY make and model (with the appropriate licenses, of course). Consultz and Nissdatascan etc are NOT proper scan tools. They are a valiant effort by talented amateurs.

Is that really relevant? That blog post is about the outer sills, not the rails closer to the trans tunnel. I think the R33 and R34 rails get equally damaged as R32 because people do the same stupid shit, picking them up with forklifts, putting jacks and jack stands under the rails (when they REALLY shouldn't), bashing them into speed bumps and driveway exits, etc etc.

Front caliper bolts on R32 & 3 Sumitomos and Brembos are 12mm. R34 front Sumitomo 14mm. I thin R34 front Brembo are 12mm. I thought they were all 12mm at the rear.

This is why body builders** go to TAFE, so they can learn to fabricate such sections. Just get someone sufficiently talented to make up replacements. Only take a few hours and a few hundred $$. **Not muscle pumpers. Body builders, as in automotive body builders. A recognised trade usually employed in bus and truck factories and crash repair workshops.

No it is not significant. 2500/2000 = 1.25. 197/155 = 1.27 ie, the 25Neo makes a little bit more than the 20Neo does, but only ~3 HP. You could make that difference with 2° of timing, or just from the 25 breathing a tiny bit better in the peak power rev range than the 20 does. Or it could be that Nissan deliberately trimmed the 20s power output a tiny bit in order to achieve some fuel consumption or emissions goal. Whatever the case, it does NOT represent a major design or specification advantage in the 25.

This is just a typical Hitachi blade style sensor, right? They're like arseholes - they're everywhere.

One is definitely a 'shop of the other, but the two questions are; Which is the original? Who cares?

Take it to a mechanic who has a proper scan tool.

Waste of time and effort. Plaything only.

Well.... maybe. What TCU is there? Keep in mind that a NEO ECU either expects to also be the TCU (when it's out of a GT-T) or it expects to talk to a separate TCU. There are specific bits of information that go backwards and forwards between these boxes, and it is almost certain that a Z32 TCU won't speak the right dialect. If you were using an aftermarket ECU with the Neo, it would probably be a lot easier. And in fact, these days people like Haltech are rolling transmission control into their ECU's capabilities because of just these problems. It would also be possible to go a standalone aftermarket TCU, although that might be difficult to integrate properly with a factory Neo ECU, for the same reasons again. If it is in an R31, and behind an RB, then someone has probably put it together, because the VG bellhousing is not the same as the RB bellhousing, even if there are usually similar gearboxen hanging off the back of them. Google search of 51x00 shows up many parts that refer to Z32, but that may or may not mean anything. The number also shows up some Maxima parts (which were also VG, but FWD) and so it is possible that it pertains to a whole slew of Nissan trannies.

You wanna buy some? There really aren't any available. You wanna sell them? $750. :D Prices have been going up quite a lot. I would contemplate offering you $1500. I can't see how the drug money trend for people to be asking heaps more than that can be justified for 27+year old seats. You can get good carbon Bride reps w/o rails for ~$1300 at the moment, which would objectively have to be substantially better seats (ie, the foam won't start orange dandruffing out the bottom!). But you might be able to convince someone who really really wants some to pay a lot more than I would.

Is it RWD? Could be Z32.

Any alarm at all. Anything with a snake name. Anything from Jaycar. Anything from almost anywhere so long as it isn't the cheapest, nastiest 3rd shift China-Bay spec. It's not like car alarm technology has actually moved along in any meaningful way in the last 20 years. Remote start and pagers and all that stuff are just fairy floss window dressing. The alarm needs to have black wires, sufficient relay interlocking to properly immobilise the vehicle and the right combination of sensors for your purposes. A tilt switch for example, to help with tow truck style thieves. And a 120+dB siren, in the cabin.

PowerFC is also not really an upgrade from a Wolf either. Same ancient history. An upgrade would have been manufactured this year.

NAs have no rear ARB mounts on the body, so you will need to get those.

You don't need to worry about the suspension. GTT have fork type rear dampers. Your car has eyelet type. But that's the same as R33 GTST, so not problem, there is suspension available. Your rear subframe won't have HICAS. Win. That's one less thing to worry about. Your car won't have traction control. So if/when you put a factory Neo RB25DET ECU into the car, it will chuck the shits at you because not TCS computer and probably no ABS computer eithers. You will need Nistune to dial that out, or an aftermarket ECU. You will need the engine bay loom, and the driver's side engine bay/gearbox loom, and you will probably still have to do wiring mods. You will need a clutch pedal bracket and pedal, master, wiring for the clutch switch, etc. Buy a VQ37 and CD009 instead.

Welcome. I'm still of the opinion that if you're doing an engine swap on a lower end model Skyline, you should bypass the RB25DET altogether and go large. 3.6 or 3.8L V6 + 2 turbos, or a big 6+ litre V8. If you have to put effort into a swap, you might as well gain the most benefit from it.

Hasn't been changed. Always was eyelet type, because NA.

Hmm. Maybe I correct myself. Seems the service manual shows the speed sensor is grounded on one side. The manual also has ALL the information you need to fault find this. Wire it up like this. And use this sort of thing to help you diagnose.

The usual thing to do (RB25 box into R32, for example) is to take the front part of the tailshaft that suits the box and the front part of the tailshaft in the car to Hardy Spicer (along with a careful measurement of the required length) and get them cut and shut together.