GTSBoy

Why does the last part of this sound like it is untrue? Just work out what the signal to the original dash gauge looks like and add it as an input to a custom display element on the dash.

Have I not already told you that this is not trivial?

But....but.... When you typed the word "than", did you really mean "then"? Because that changes the meaning of the sentence entirely.

Explain. I can't picture a Skyline where the engine loom doesn't come out through the firewall/A pillar region on the passenger (LH) side of the engine bay.

3 minutes each side made the gaps in my wiring go away.

272+ degree cams will definitely have a choppy idle, but I've not seen what they're like on a ported 26 head on a really big capacity bottom end. The big capacity should help. I've driven 290° cams on a 2JZ and it idled like a motorbike (buzzy, changeable revs, clutch chatter like a bitch from the twin plate) but it was not struggle to get it moving and it was only soft below 2000rpm (IIRC).

So, the X is their custom code. That means that someone ordered those cams to those specs, or Kelfords were asked to come up with cam specs to suit engine parameters given to them. That spec sheet is interesting in that it differs from many of Kelford's off the shelf cam sheets in what lifts are used to spec durations. Nevertheless, it is pretty close to the 1mm lift territory I came up with, so I still think it will go well.

Yeah, but Johnny, it don't start at all. I'd be looking closely at whether the fuel fail is plumbed up correctly. In vs out, damper & pressure reg. Check the ignition timing while cranking. It needs to be in the right ballpark. Does it need the chip tuned VG ECU because of mods? Why is it there? It's just one more way that it could have problems. Is it possible to throw an RB25 ECU at it? (Probably not, would be my guess, because of loom plug differences).

Don't put Shockproof in anything unless you need it because of crunchy selectors. For f**k's sake, don't put it in the front diff. Use diff oils in diffs. A good LSD oil for the rear, a normal (non-LSD) diff oil for the front, unless it has had an LSD centre put in it.

The duration total or at 0.050"/1.25mm? Reason I ask is that that duration and that lift do not appear on Kelford's RB26 page. But nevermind, because I guess the specs are at the same lift as other Kelford cams, which is advertised duration at 0.35mm. So your 1mm lift durations will be ~242-245°. Moderately chunky! in which case, they will probably be great. You will benefit from a big cam on a big engine. Your flowbench numbers have ~72% of the intake flow on the exhaust, so, maybe just maybe the split duration is not all that required. But I don;t think it will hurt anything.

Yeah, but it comes and it goes. Some days I see it, others not. This has been going on for a long time, so it's not related to the recent software update. I use NoScript to kill most site automations on most sites (and block SuckFace and other trackers) so I'm always willing to credit odd behaviour of this sort of shit to my own hamfisted actions to cripple other stuff. But even if I permit everything to run on SAU I still get uneven behaviour on that stuff. That "popular on SAU" thing annoyed me every time it appeared on the lower RHS also. Mainly because it would hover over something else that I might want to click and I'd have to scroll. Trivial stuff, I know.

Switch them from side to side (temporarily) and tell us if the car is sagging the same way.

Or, there's the direct approach

Cracking. As said, they are famous for it. Close inspection with bright light & mirror while someone else pushes the pedal is a good idea.

Dipstick is about 10% of the cross sectional area required for a decent vent, so don't ever waste time doing that.

You can't take the solenoid itself apart. You can dismantle the valve (ie, remove the solenoid, remove the plugs to access the internal galleries, etc).

How far do you travel each second at 185mph? Start with that number and compare it to the length of the runway, then factor in getting to that speed and slowing back down. Runway goes away at a frightening rate. Set up the equations and integrate for distance if you're capable of the math.

NP. Happy to help. You put in some effort first!

Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread.

It might be better if you just don't do this.

You will need to watch as many youtube vids on setting up diffs and read as much as you can - because it is not trivial. You will need engineer's blue and know how to read gear meshing patterns to know whether you have it set up right. If you do not set it up right the CW & pinion will eat themselves.

It's not just unverified. It's obviously not correct. As if there is a 1990 GTR around with only that many km! Comp test and leak down test it. If it comes up fine there is no reason to take the engine apart. The weak part of any RB is the oil pump. Read up about what you should do about that. The rest of it is just fuelling and oil/crankcase breathing control. Do what you have to do for those to keep it healthy. f**king crack testing the block and changing the water pump are a sure sign that your local shop have no f**king idea what they're doing, so run a mile right now and find a mechanic with a clue.

Do the calc yourself. You know your diff ratio. You know your tyre size. You know 5th gear ratio. You might have a better idea of how many revs it might pull at the top end of 5th (based on how much power the car makes, which we don't know either). You don't even have to do all that. Just drive it at 4000rpm in 5th. How fast is it going? Double that number for an 8000rpm top end. take 7/8 of that number for a 7000rpm top end, etc.

Perhaps if we understood why it matters to you.......

Yes.