GTSBoy

It also appears to be mostly FWD.

If it's missing at idle because something (a coil or the igniter) is hot then you can try to cool each one down with compressed air while it's missing to see if it comes good.

The GTR isn't wider in a way that would impact on the diffuser itself fitting. It's not like the diffuser attaches to the bottom edges of the guards. It attaches inboard. Those spats/pods that are bolted to the outer ends of the diffuser do interface with the guards though. And the GTR guards are ever so slightly wider than the Skyline guards, even right down the bottom there. So, you might expect that the upper edges of those pods would be loose/not contacting the Skyline guards. Whether you could make them sit inwards and line up everywhere as simply as slotting the bolt holes in the bottom....dunno. It would go very very close though. The real question should be, do they do it with less ugly pods/spats than the ones in the photo? Those are f**king hideous, with all that curvy bullshit hanging out in the breeze behind the wheel. I can promise you that they will get the shit kicked out of them from stones, dirt, etc off the back tyres too.

No aftermarket (larger) cam is going to bring your boost on earlier. Any longer duration will only move the power curve to the right. You can of course change the opening and closing event timing by a few degrees with adjustable cam gears. You could do this on stock cams to try to reduce overlap and move the curve to the left a little. Increased cam lift is "free" power and can improve boost response by getting more gas flowing at lower revs. But more lift is seldom available without more duration. So it's nearly impossible to tease apart the response benefit from increased lift on a Poncam from the penalty from increased duration. And these are usually installed with gears, so it gets further muddled. Poncams are far and away not the best choice for baby cams. There are a couple of Australian and NZ cam manufacturers who do more interesting cams, combining modest increases in duration with the largest lift that can still "drop in", or even better, with lift that requires clearance machining of the head.

The chassis number will always be for a GT. There is no sense in converting a GT into a GTT for almost any reason at all. But doing it for drift is the worst reason of all. If making a drift car, just drop an LS3 into it and be done with it. It will be 20x the drift car with a suitable engine in it.

500HP on a roller dyno, hub dyno or at the engine?

I find it difficult to assist people who want to drift these cars to an early grave. Drifting an S chassis to death makes me less sad.

Yes. Yes it could. External venting BOVs are an opening to atmosphere, which is a kiss of death on air flow metered cars. Why would you fit one?

Coils. Did the S1s still have the igniter? If so, igniter. AFM solder joints, just possibly getting crackly when the engine bay gets hot. Same with CAS, CAS connector pins, coil wiring, etc.

R32 peeps are all aware of the early/late differences. No shame in not knowing. Just no internet points either.

Or you could have done something bad to the front end. Loading it via the radiator will put unpleasant forces into the radiator support panel, which is not supposed to carry any actual loads. May have pulled the front ends of the chassis rails inwards.

? Amayama, Nengun, various other places like JustJap. eBay also.

I wouldn't be worried about that little bend much. I would be worried about what other effects there might have been from dropping the weight of the car onto the balancer/crank as a whole might have done.

I think Kiwi might have confused himself.

I was going to say https://www.haltech.com/product-category/nissan/stagea-wc34/ or something similar.

Why are you shopping on eBay for all this stuff?

No. The NA box is a skinny little twig. The turbo box is huge. But you can put RB clutches on RBs of any stripe. By the way. That (eBay clutch) is the cheapest, nastiest looking thing I have ever seen. Spend a thousand $$.

Sticky shit FTW.

As far as I know there is no difference in the panels back there apart from the guard flares. They're definitely interchangeable on the earlier models, for example. No concrete yes/no from me. But I'd be terribly surprised if they don't swap.

Paste from IM. Leading suspicion then is that one of them is misbehaving. Turning power on and off. Those relays adjacent the ECU (well, at least one of them) is the ECCS relay, controls power to the ECU, and hence everything else. When you turn on the ignition, power goes to a terminal on the ECU. The ECU then turns on an output that energises the ECCS relay, that provides power to most things that are needed to run the engine. When you turn the ignition off, the ECU holds that output on for a number of seconds before pulling the power. Turbo timers act to keep ignition power on after you turn the engine off. They are a leading suspect in this sort of shenanigans. Immobilisers/alarms act to chop power off in that circuit and they can also cause shit. Turbo timers are stupid. You should get rid of it anyway.

Just instate the charge light in the circuit? As per the original wiring diagram?

Have you got an alarm or a turbo timer?

RB20 + M90 supercharger + GT42 turbo. 30 psi ought to do it.

Is it a Lucas injector?