GTSBoy

OK. 2 amps or so shouldn't be enough to cause too much trouble. On that basis, I am just going to guess that you have dislodged something while futzing about under the dash. You should get the wiring diagram for your car, or a similar car (hint, later R34 or V35 types might be close enough to show you how Nissan were doing things) to see where there should be power, where there should be earth and what sort of plugs might be involved under the dash. Then go probing with a multimeter to find out where the pixies are and where they aren't.

And how many amps does the wideband pull?

I expose this contradiction in the interests of de-obfuscation.

If you lower it, it will gain -ve camber. You need adjustment to put it back the way it should be.

It's weird. 8.5 + 38 -20 really shouldn't go anywhere near the suspension.

Or is a dildo with absolutely no idea about anything.

That doesn't look dangerous at all.

Stupid camber?

IF it is broken, you should change it. It has the potential to ruin your motor. IF it just a hose leak, then just fix the hose. Can't tell you what is wrong with it from here.

This is a troll, right?

This is particularly nonsensical. 245 wide tyres belong on at least an 8" rim, if not an 8.5 or 9". At 8", a 235 +35 will fit absolutely fine. A 245 will also fit just fine. However, at 8", a +18 offset is stupidly low for an R32 and you would expect the wheel to hang out of the guard. You would NOT expect it to hit the suspension. What width wheel are you talking about?

What do you know about RBs?

You're not going to do it with either of those. Injectors too small (and too old and shitty). Coils are shit. Upgrade to at least Splitfire, if not Yaris coils or R35 type coils. Fuel pump is probably too small too.

Oh. FFS!

Many years ago, the factory plastic top tank on my R32 cracked. New alloy tanked rad went. Some years after that, a f**kstain caused me to make severe contact with the side of his car using the front of my car. Along with much panel work, a new radiator and new FMIC went into my car. 8 years later (2 months ago), a seized fan clutch caused excessive suction on radiator, pulled it into contact with the fan blades and cracked the end of one of the tubes. New radiator went into my car. That's 3 new rads in 27 years of car life and 20 years of my ownership. Nothing unusual there, and despite having have front end repairs, it is still one of the best condition R32s around. And it is a manual converted ex-auto car too.

It's a really unquantifiable value proposition there. It so much depends on who is looking at the car. There's a bathtub curve in value for these cars. While the price is down in the bottom of the curve, clean unmodified ones are not worth a great deal more than ones that are a little rougher or have some (properly done) mods on them. Once they start to climb up the appreciation side of the curve again (assuming that they do) then the value of "clean, unmodified" will start to become a bigger thing, because the reason that they climb the curve is because people are looking to get "one of the last good ones", or similar reasoning. R34s have sort of started recovering in value, but they're not as far back up the curve as R32s are (for example), so the difference between "clean, unmodified" and otherwise is not yet as big as it might be in a little while. And every buyer will tell you that the car is worth $10k less than you would like for it. That's the nature of trying to sell anything in the Gen-Y world.

Most of that mod list makes little difference. Your limits will come from the injectors/pump, or the boost limit before it knocks. You can work out how much air the turbo will pump at different boost levels if you have the speed sensor installed (and connected to something that can read it). Otherwise, you can look at the RB26 dyno results thread for other RB26s with the 8374 on, (https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/) or the BW EFR thread here also.

The "big service" doesn't change the value of the car at all. The pod filter is neutral. Some people will like it, some will want to get rid of it. Plus or minus value depending on who's looking. The gearbox mount is a small consideration, as is the HICAS delete (both are good, neither are expensive to do). Ditto the Splitfires. The Mishimoto radiator will be seen as a hard negative by anyone who knows them (and their lack of quality). Will cost buyer to replace it. Otherwise, it's worth $15-20k. You could argue that it's worth more and advertise it for $25k and see who bites. Might move, or might not. Publicly visible asking prices and actual sale prices only every have so-so relationship to each other.

And 350Z and 370Z.

That's because they are dead old and there have been a billion other Brembo calipers turn up on cars since.

No. AAC means Auxiliary Air Control. It is just that. Auxiliary, as in extra. IACV is Idle Air Control Valve. Is the actual idle air stepper motor controlled by the ECU.

Cold start is AAC. Idle control is IACV.

It is freely downloadable from any of a gazillion links that you will find if you google it. You want the R32 GTR service manual. It has RB20 stuff in it too, because it covers GTS4.

Don't do this. If there is a fault in the wiring that has damaged the relevant circuit in the ECU, then swaptronics is a good way to kill another ECU.** Instead, why not look into the health of the loom? Point to point check the wiring with a multi-meter. Use the wiring diagrams in the manual to show you what you should be looking for and where. ** Granted, the power for this valve does not come directly out of the ECU, so the risk to your spare ECU in this circumstance is not high. I'm just making a point that you need to think about what you're doing, instead of risking spare parts. Swaptronics is bad practice.

Well, the DE ports are small, so they will become a restriction on max power long before they would on a DET head. It's not surprising that you start to hit a wall. Your options are to use a DET head or spend some time/money in digging the extra metal out of the ports. I know which would be easier! Freddy intake is neither here nor there as far as power is concerned. You will make the power just as easily with a stock plenum. So if you're planning to change it for power reasons, spend the money elsewhere.