GTSBoy

Is this a question?

There is no point in choking a large compressor with a small exhaust housing. The smart approach to wanting good response is to choose a smaller turbo. the smart approach to wanting max power from a given compressor is to choose the smallest exhaust housing that will get you there - which is NOT the smallest housing available, generally.

If you have Nistune, then just look at the feedback gauges. O2 sensor needs to be flicking between nearly 0v and nearly 1v every second or so, to be in closed loop. If it's not, then there is probably something wrong with your O2 sensor, or a moron has turned off feedback!

Nobody is going to import paint from Japan. Paint is paint everywhere.

Owning an R32 GTR without cash these days is just like owning a Porsche 928 without cash. A recipe for a car that never works.

It's on this very site. Just use your search skills.

18 ETS pressure switch or circuit Could be a lot of causes. Dead/dying pump. Nitrogen accumulator expired. Pressure switch f**ked, etc etc. Take it to an experienced GTR mechanic.

How are you defining those power levels? Engine, Dyno Dynamics roller, Mustang roller, hub dyno? And naturally the 76R will spool faster. Smaller compressor wheel has less inertia. There is a whole thread stickied at the top with many many results and dyno sheets for the turbos you ask about. Have a look.

Seems that it overheated because you left it running on a hot day with the air con going with no fan. No surprise there. So, it boiled and blew all the coolant out. Not surprising either. If it is now holding coolant and running fine, then you probably dodged a bullet with respect to blowing a head gasket or the various other bad things that could have happened. Count your blessings and don't do it again. The knock sensor probably detected boiling noises. Or the engine actually could have been pinging at idle because the head was SUPER hot. If it doesn't show that code again, then count your blessings and don't do it again.

Good on ya for posting back. Serves as good advice to others!

R32 and S13 have same geometry. R33 and S14 (and I guess, R34 and S15) have same geometry, which is different to the earlier ones, with better anti-squat properties. Fitting the later ones into earlier chassis (or vice versa, if you're so demented as to want to do it) requires offset bushes to deal with the width difference. C33/4 and all other similar cars (ie Cefiro, etc) will either be the same as R32 or R33, depending on whether they were being produced at the same time. The 2s and the 3s and the 4s don't line up. HICAS or non-HICAS is the other big difference. I put an A31 subframe into my R32 to get rid of HICAS. It's the same thing as an R32 non-HICAS subframe.

The alternative, and nicer way to do it is to make up replacements for the 14mm inserts on the 310mm 4 pots with a 12mm thread in them. You just press out the big ones and put them in the cupboard, press in the 12mm ones and no drilling required. Just needs someone with a lathe, a tap and a knurler and 15 minutes per insert to make them.

Is it not four holes? 2 per caliper?

I dunno. I'm an RB user. Google image search and have a look.

Do you mean remove the front of the car? Hell no. Take radiator out? Quite possibly. But that's not expensive work. Neither is removing the timing covers. That's what I meant when I said "But pulling timing covers off is not the difference between affordable and not". If it adds an hour to the job it's an extra hundred buck or so, right? Not an extra $500.

At this point, given the questions you're asking, I'd suggest that you'd probably be better off taking it to a sparky. Turbo timer installation requires cutting wires and splicing it in, so there is no quick and simple "disconnection". TTs are shit, so you should consider pissing it off anyway. But that's a digression. I couldn't tell you what fuses to test across, and more to the point, that's probably not going to tell you anything. I'd be dismantling the column shroud to expose the ignition switch and probing the back of the switch's plug, with the wiring diagram in hand, to see where and when you get power, and if it is going away when it apparently shouldn't. Then I'd be going down to the ECCS relay (at the ECU) to examine its behaviour. Although, really, I would be looking sideways at the turbo timer the whole time, so you would be far better off making sure that it wasn't to blame before trying to troubleshoot anywhere else. But seriously, this sort of thing is not possible to do remote hand holding. You have to be there with the multimeter in hand and know when what you're measuring is right or wrong to be able to find the problem. Even more so to fix it once you've found it. Hence the sparky recommendation.

Well, yeah, most of it - certainly at least the top part. The VQs are chain driven, yes? But pulling timing covers off is not the difference between affordable and not.

These can cause all sorts of shit. They are wired into the ignition power. I would start looking there. Is there a handbrake switch wired into it that is now causing problems, for example? The ignition switch might be faulty. For example of possible failure mode. You get power through it when switched to ON, and then you turn it to start and when it comes back to ON the contacts (worn, broken, etc) don't line up any more. I know that's not your problem, I'm just illustrating. In your case it would be less likely because it sounds like it starts getting power at ON then it goes away, which is less likely to be the switch. Still could be. This will come down to chasing around with a multimeter. Looking for where power is and at what times/points in your operation, and comparing with knowledge of what it should be. What it should be is harder to know if you don't have a working example to compare with, or loads of experience of chasing that type of problem in that type of car.

What is stock and what is modified? Without any other info, I would be pondering the functioning of the ECCS relay, which is the main relay involved in powering the ECU, and can just die on its own (rarely) or be subject to shenanigans from badly done wiring mods. Otherwise, this is a really big field of possibilities.

Early RBs have a short oil pump drive spline. It self destructs. There is an enormous amount of discussion on upgrading to a longer pump drive all over the internet. Probably 5000 pages of it on here. You need to make yourself aware of the best course of action and the best option (for a 30). It is even more important to do it on an RB30 under a twin cam head because of spinning the longer throw crank to higher rpm. The work is to machine off the old pump drive area and shrink fit a new drive collar onto the spot.

No. You don't dirty thirty a GTR. Unless by "take this block, slap that plate on" you mean "rebuild the 30 bottom end so you can trust it". But otherwise, what you said is close. Oil pump drive is a big thing still. ECU will want some tickling.

Welcome. i will modify Sam's advice a little. Your R33 has the smallest and least torquey engine possible to get in an R33. It will be naturally very easy to stall, so don't be afraid to use a few more revs and slip the clutch just a bit more than might be ideal as you start from rest. You'll eventually get a better feel for it and what you can get away with. But in the meantime, more (revs) is less (stalling).

Wat?

The nut will have to be destroyed with a grinder and/or nut splitter to get it off. At that point the car will be undrivable until you fix the stud. So either get a replacement upright or plan for it to be off the road while you get someone to remake the part. Your coilovers are off the table until then.

Is it the male thread damaged, or the nut? "Just spins" could be either. Nuts are somewhat easier to replace. The stud is just pressed in. So it can be pressed out. You probably can't buy one, so you'd need to get a machinist to copy it. Worst case (and this is really really the worst case) you could try cutting it down to the next thread size as a purely temporary fix. I wouldn't do this, but it is something of an option.