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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    That's quite a lot of work you've taken on there. Good on you.
  2. GTSBoy
    This guy bothers me. They burnt the unused direct injectors up on the dyno. He did not remove them beforehand. Anyone with a 3W dashbulb brain would have expected them to fail. This is on the most recent WTF!??!!? moment I have had watching his stuff. He's like a total amateur. Defo not an expert.
  3. GTSBoy
    3D printing of metal is possible. We've been doing prototype dev of burner components in high alloy stainlesses, and you can do Al, and Ti and all sorts. The problem with 3D printed metal parts is that they are not as strong/reliable as anything made from one piece, whether that started as cast or billet or forged. They are billions of little blobs of metal spray welded together. They are not even as good as conventional sintered pieces. Some might come out perfect, some might have high voidage in just the wrong spot, etc etc. Great for prototyping, but difficult to use for volume mnaufacturing, because of both cost and the quality issues. For something easy like an inlet manifold, yeah, OK, likely to go alright. For a suspension or engine component - wouldn't easily get me trusting my life to it.
  4. GTSBoy
    Which means that the car you look at is not engineered. As defectable as if it never had an engineer approve the rest of the mods. Granted, at least some of the mods are fine, but that doesn't help you when you get pulled over by a prick on a bike.
  5. GTSBoy
    Welcome. Worry not about your English. It is literally perfect compared to everyone else's Finnish!
  6. GTSBoy
    I think the problem might be that he doesn't have the original A pillar trim, because some arsehat replaced it with one of those "complete replacement carbon fibre vtec yo" gauge holders.....and lost/got rid of the original. Nearly as bad as drilling holes in the original to fit one of the stupid screw on things. 'sif you need f**king gauges on the A pillar anyway. No offence intended Steve.
  7. GTSBoy
    eBay. And it's in Adelaide. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-TRIM-PANEL-R32-05-89-11-94-89-90-91-92-93-94/223399796628?hash=item3403aa5f94:g:0q4AAOSw2EJcamMz
  8. GTSBoy
    I wouldn't complain about RS4 grip in the wet. I think they stick fine in the wet, so long as they have some heat in them. Same with any semi semi really. My other vote is for AD08R. They are still the best street tyre I've had in the last quite a few years. The RS4s are going to last longer, and they're nearly as grippy. The only problem is the Yokos are usually a bit dear.
  9. GTSBoy
    What do you mean "not useful"? !!! People would give an arm and a leg for there to be a tool that you could use to search for information like this. If only there was one.
  10. GTSBoy
    The main problem is that 3D printed pieces, printed on affordable plastic filament printers, are usually crap. Fragile, ugly surface finish, etc etc. You can't make replacement parts for car interiors that match. You can make stuff that doesn't match. You can't cheaply 3D print suspension components, engine components, body panels, even plastic things like side skirts, bumpers, grilles, etc, are all too hard. Wait for the real manufacturing revolution, when nano becomes a thing, in about 60 years.
  11. GTSBoy
    As I said, I would be aiming for at least 9.5:1 on any engine I was building these days. The fuel, the injectors, the coils and the computers have improved massively in 30 years.
  12. GTSBoy
    Please define what you mean by vss. You do realise that the VSS is the Vehicle Speed Signal, as available on the wiring that connects to the ECU pin. It is an OUTPUT from the speedo. The speedo needs a signal from the speed sensor in the gearbox. RB20DET gearboxes do not have this sensor, because they have a cable driven speedo. As to the rest of it....I'm assuming that it's all just wired up wrong.
  13. GTSBoy
    This is why I have not replied. And I put a Neo into a 32. And the wiring work is not so simple that I'm going to try to explain it over the 'net. It's not hard - it just takes thinking and effort. Put wiring diagram A next to wiring diagram B and make the differences go away.
  14. GTSBoy
    Or perhaps the correct grammar version where you advise against it?
  15. GTSBoy
    The V8 one is great, but as you say....nothing but trouble to get registered somewhere else. I also struggle to understand how it is engineered in QLD. The bonnet is something that simply can't be engineered, as far as I understand it. CF bonnets being a huge no-no unless the engineer is willing to put both cock and balls on the line. And the bloody thing doesn't even fit anyway - looks like shit.
  16. GTSBoy
    Still forgot to post the link to the carsales search! https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/nissan/skyline/25gt-t-badge/
  17. GTSBoy
    Here's the 20 or so GTTs on carsales at the moment. Some of the asking prices might be a little cane toad influenced, especially the $45k one. And the ones in the high 20s will probably not sell for those numbers. But the fact remains that these cars are perceived to be worth this sort of money (if only by the sellers). I can certainly picture a very good car going for over $25k again. Face it, cars like mine started out at the ~$20k region (20 years ago!) and went down to maybe $7k over 15 years and then turned around and are now worth** about as much as they started out at. **on the caveat that they are still in good condition, not drifted into phone poles.
  18. GTSBoy
    You might have paid too much.
  19. GTSBoy
    Not talking about helicoils or similar. Talking about the entire press in threaded boss. I pressed out the 14mm one on my 34 calipers and put in some 12mm ones that BenC34 had made up. So as to not have to drill the car.
  20. GTSBoy
    Oh, OK. Well, either way, you won't notice any difference. I'd be aiming for >9.5:1 on any build I was doing these days.
  21. GTSBoy
    Lol. I have an 1993 R32 that would sell for somewhere above $20k and maybe even as much as 25. 5 years older. Driven every day, 230000+ km. Nowhere near perfect, but in good condition. The R34 would have to be the next most desirable R chassis after the 32 (for those that like 32s) and the most desirable R chassis (for those that aren't as hot for 32s). If mine is worth that sort of money, a much newer, less used R34, would have to be worth the same sort of money or a bit more.
  22. GTSBoy
    Neo ECU is for Neo, not vanilla 25. Has some sensors that the vanilla one doesn't have, leading you to have to dick around to try to make it work. Just skip it. Do the ECU properly. NA ECU, or any ECU for a 2.5L motor, should not be expected to fuel a 3L motor correctly without tuning. Vanilla RB25 ECUs cannot be tuned (easily - certainly don't take Nistune), ergo, they should not be contemplated for this sort of job.
  23. GTSBoy
    RB25 ECU cannot be Nistuned. You can use a Nistuned R32 ECU, with a little fiddling. Going to that effort, you should probably just use a Haltech/Link/whatever the first time. You will not get a 3L to run off a 25 NA ECU. All RB starters fit. Don't worry about the studs. But if you are mating a different head to a different block, then you have a prize opportunity to put ARP studs in at the outset. Don't think about it as spending more money than you need to. Think about it simply as being a bloody good idea. There's nothing wrong with using an NA head. The best choice used to be the (now rather hard to find) R32 RB25 NA head (because no VCT). The wiring loom, for the most part, attaches to shit on the head. Not the block. But don't go into this thinking that you won't have to sort out some plugs and shit here and there.
  24. GTSBoy
    How can a thicker gasket increase compression ratio?
  25. GTSBoy
    Really, if it's not yours yet, and you're not real experienced with cars, you need to take along someone who is, with tools, some diagnostic equipment (like a multimeter), and some time.
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