GTSBoy

Well, it's just a relay. Time to adapt something else.

Yes.....but did they test the 2nd unit BEFORE installing it? If you do Install, then test, and find it broken, you do not know if it was broken on arrival, or f**ked during/after installation. A "brand new" setup is even more likely to break something than an existing wiring setup that was known to work on another ECU.

Is it not more likely that there is something wrong with the ECU wiring loom and both ECUs have been damaged by being plugged in and powered up?

Blown globe?

It would be highly unlikely that there would be any difference. The front suspension design is the same, is it not? The rear suspension uses eyelets on the lower end of the dampers, yes? If so, then go right ahead. Look at photos of R32 rear ends and the suspension units that you would consider using, then go look at what you've actually got on the car.

I concur with the call for a larger turbo. If wanting cheap(ish, er), then the smaller one off a Barra would be fine - whatever that one is. Otherwise, certainly larger than 3076, as it will be quite limiting, even with E85. Nistune will do the job fine - but as you will really need to upgrade to an R35 AFM to make use of it.....you might as well spend just a little more for a Haltech or similar.

Could be electrical. There is a solenoid on the rack that is driven by the HICAS CU that gives you your variable assist. If that is not working, you get heavy steering. The solenoid could be crook, or not even connected. The wires that run to it are in the same loom as the power wires for the oxy sensor (well, at least they are on an RB20 car, can only guess that they are similar on RB26) and have been known to get damaged when that loom melts. That last example just to give you an idea of how weird the cause of death of some electrical things can be.

RBs with VCT will happily pull 1500rpm in 5th. So long as you don't open the throttle too much.

Condition is the only thing that matters. My car is at 230k km and has had 2 engines, 4 different transmissions, 2 rear subframes, 3 different sized front brake setups, every suspension bush changed at least twice, some as many as 10 times. 3 different radiators, 3 ECUs, etc etc etc. Some parts of the car are still original.

What about the IACV? That is what controls the idle you know.

Multimeter. Wiring diagram.

Is the ECU losing power after the end of crank time?

Only when you put a little load on it, or at any load? Because the former is normal-ish.

You'd have to bleed out the transfer case (which is well documented and simple enough) to run a 33/4 GTR without front drive.

Hold exhaust up. Tighten bolts. There. Done.

And they also look like they belong on a Pulsar. What's with the shitty looking offset on those things?

New genuine (not fake!) OEM coils are a good choice. Splitfires are the only aftermarket same-form-factor coilpack that I would consider. But seriously - these days, Audi R8 (or equivalent) coils or R35 GTR coils are the way to go. If you need to replace coilpacks it is foolish to stick with 35 year old tech when 1 year old tech is available, 11ty times better and only slightly more expensive to put in place. Good coils are only $50 each these days, whereas the stockers and Splitfires are still up around $100 each. Then you can get rid of the ignitor too. Put the effort into making it better, not same. As to the rest of the ignition system. You probably need to put a scope onto the CAS signal to see if it is messy or not. The Nissan ECU at least manages to punch through a lot of the crap that the CAS puts out (better than most aftermarket ECUs seem able to), but there is still a limit. At the least you should make sure that the bearings aren't stuffed, the wiring connections are good, etc. A high rpm miss can also be a shortage of fuel. What do you know about the health of all that stuff?

Missing at revs under load should usually be blamed on coils before anything else, and then after that, on just about everything else in the ignition system (coil loom, ignitor, CAS).

PM'd

I think he meant GT350.

Have you pressure tested the inlet from the turbo to the TB? Boost leak is not always going to show up as a vacuum leak. And, for idle control, how sure are you that the IACV is working properly? Cleaned it lately? Your symptoms (rolling stall) are typical of a sticky IACV.

Just looking at Nick's list, some of the prices seem very off target. For example.....WTF for ID1300X at >$1300 US?!!!? Suitable Bosch EV14 based injectors, properly matched sets too, are only about $600 Ozzie, or less than half the ID price quoted. The intake manifold kit, at <$700 US, including a TB, seems ridiculously underpriced. Is it made out of dog food cans? Things like the Tial wastegates, possibly the turbo....thinking of V-band connections? Start adding some more money. And I would spend more on a turbo and definitely not buy a Precision. There's a whole pile of annoying omissions from the list. Exhaust side gaskets. All the factory coolant hoses (or replacement with Speedflow type stuff). Either way, a lot of money hiding there. Spark plugs, coils, wiring looms (which we'll assume are all missing from this head and block in possession). Timing gears, belts, balancer, sensors....the list just blows up. Whilst it would probably be possible to do a light duty build with sensibly chosen parts and scrape in near the $15k budget.....I'd say that would only be if you started with a complete engine in a car and didn't need to fill all these gaps. Starting with nothing except a block and a head, starts to look like double that value, if not more. The truth no doubt lies somewhere in between. But just be warned - none of us think you're going to get it done anywhere near the nominated budget.

Meth is a hell of a drug.

Nah, running filthy rich and not wanting to idle suggest a big fat hole somewhere. Dirty injectors usually lead to lean pops and only a moderate increase in fuel consumption.

Boost/vacuum leak.