GTSBoy

Spray some window cleaner or similar at the hose joint and wiggle.

Probably goes around to the Consult port, no?

It's the headlight switch on the instrument binnacle. Dismantle, clean contacts.

That's why I said $1000 and not $2000! :p

Of course it does. All these cars had them fitted when they were complied. There is no way it should have been complied in the first place if it didn't.

Isn't this what wreckers are for? There would have to be 15000 of these lying around on workshop floors here in Australia. And no, you probably can't buy new replacement parts for the resistor coil in it. But here's the thing - do you know anyone who understands electrical stuff and can have a look at it to see why it's reading low ohms? It might just need a tweak.

Yup, pay someone for $1000 detail effort on $2.50 paint condition, to get it up to $3.50 paint condition. Sounds like a good idea....not. She's f**ked proper and there's really no point in talking about how to recover it.

Didn't bleed the cooling system properly. No need to consider any other option.

The level sender is a variable resistor that is wiped up and down by the float arm. If it is reading a fixed resistance regardless of where the arm is, then either it is; Shorted close to one end of the winding, Really dirty in some way (although this usually results in high resistance, not low), Wiper broken off the arm so it is stuck in the one position, Any of a variety of other combinations of the above or something outright surprising. Play with it. Work out what it is doing wrong.

NA Skylines are fine. The engines just need to be >5L though.

What do you mean "DC converter"? If you just want a fixed voltage at the rack, you could just blow away the extra volts with a suitably sized (ohms and watts) resistor. If you wanted to go to the effort of using more electronics to achieve the same goal and waste a little less electricity, you could certainly put a DC-DC converter on there. Or, you could build an Arduino to run a PWM output to an SSR. Choose a suitable frequency for the PWM (maybe 100Hz) and just punch out the pulsewidths required to get the voltage you want. It's pretty clear that it wants somewhere around 6V to get max assist (at low speeds) and ~2V to get minimum assist at higher speeds. If you went to a little more effort you could connect an Arduino input to the VSS and give it full variable assist to the same extent that the HICAS CU would.

I'd have to suggest that the hose that pokes off the top back of the TB is the trigger signal for the purge canister, and it goes via the solenoid valve down behind the rearmost of the two inlet manifold crossover pipes. It's a ported vacuum source that only works when the throttle is in a certain position. The one on the driver's side of the plenum is the feed to the main vacuum system tank, from which all the other crap on the NA Neo is run (the variable intake stuff.)

A bung is a rubber grommet or plug to fill a hole (usually in the bottom of something). It's a bit of Aussie slang.

Obviously. But if the EBC lines are screwed up in some way you could have just about any result. Setting these things up, physically and electrically and programming them, is child's play. It's all self obvious. It's a PWM bleed valve.

Are you sure that the stepper motor in question is part of the CVT? There are at least 2 other options. Idle control and throttle or traction control. It could be the tranny's stepper, but if it is, it will be inside it. So....you won't find it without some spanners.

R33 shouldn't boost cut at 11-12 psi. There's actually not really any such thing as a boost cut on R33s. There are some ECU protection from going too high on the AFM signal, which is kinda the same thing. But you really shouldn't be able to overrun the AFM limits at only 11 - 12 psi. What should happen is that when running that much load (caused by getting up to 11 ish psi) the ECU will be accessing cells in the fuel and ignition maps that just have stupidly large amounts of fuel and very low ignition timing. This is known as Rich and Retard (R&R). It's how the Nissan engineers limited how much damage you could do to the engine. As you wind the boost up, it actually just gets slower. On my R34 ECU (which is quite different in many ways, but the Nissan boys still used the R&R strategy) it was very clear what was happening at 11 psi (because I could see it on the laptop, which you cant do as easily on the R33), and if I went higher than that it would do a very savage "boost" cut. That cut was from exceeding the load limit, not a boost value per se. I would expect the R33 should feel similar. 10 psi is realistically the max that you can hope to run on an R33 without starting to waste time and fuel for no return.

What do you mean "can't find one anywhere"?

A flash mode switch on the ECU, either hardware or software, would be easier.

I work for shiny trinkets.

Auto transmissions are full of witchcraft and bullshit. Take it to an auto specialist with the story.

:D 30 year old wierd arse electrical faults require disassembly and discovery.

Yes. Yes. Yes.

Yes.

Not "stock". Maybe a dealer fitted option. But not stock.

A weathershield is stock? Have you looked at eBay? Every terrible thing you could want to bolt onto an R32 is available there.