GTSBoy

Don't need to be a specialist. These things are as common as muck and as sophisticated as a toilet plunger. If you can diagnose the complicated crap the Euros pump out, you should be able to diagnose a dirty old Nissan in seconds.

I was gunna say the same thing.

So you know what the problem is. Go fix it. How the hell do you expect us to know what it is.

Yes. What I can't remember is if they'd given up on 4 stud wheels on the NA by the time they got to the R34. If you have 4 stud, then it is a lot more work and stuff you need to get - because the turbo stuff is obviously 5 stud. Nope. NA R34s were still sliding caliper junk. R33 GTST are 4 pot Sumitomo on 296mm x 30mm rotors. There's a lot more than one thread covering this stuff on these forums. Use google to search the forums. You will get much better results.

I'm here for the gangbang.

The shift lock is the control box and beeper. It sits above your left knee/shin. As soon as you f**k off the auto trans and convert to manual you can unplug it, like I did. Have you considered spraying the inside of the solenoid with some brake-kleen or similar solvent, followed by some silicone or teflon spray lube?

1L of water ain't gunna do that much harm.

Nope. Won't work. Neo has at least one sensor that the vanilla 25 doesn't. You could f**k about and make it work, but I can't see the point in f**king about for a f**king PowerFC. There are much better ECUs available now. You would be (much) better off putting a Nistune board into an RB20 ECU than using a PowerFC. Or a proper standalone.

Put more fuel in it and just run it. Water injection (deliberate) is a thing. It won't cause any harm.

Well, it's not stock. But Why not fix it instead of removing it? An alarm on an R34 GTR seems like a f**kING GOOD IDEA.

Also depends on how big the cams are. The bigger the cam, the less you can adjust it before it attempts to weld bits together.

If you replaced the coils and now it still misses then the most likely ignition cause is the ignitor. There's various other things like worn CAS bearings, dirty plug contacts on CAS and AFM and so on that can also start to play up only when you get it hot enough. But the ignitor is the most likely.

Yuh, looks like it goes through pin 6. I know nothing about Links. Fair to assume they don't care about the niceties of last ditch engine cooling, in favour of more injectors!

Rocker arm? I take it that this is not an RB engine, right? Either way - don't f**k about. The camshaft comes all the way out.

Here's the whole (R32) ECCS system diagram. I can't see that sensor anywhere. You should comb through it to convince yourself. And continued, ditto And the actual ECU pinout, ditto

Have you got the wiring diagram? I only have the R32 one, which would very likely be the same, but I wouldn't bet on it. I don't have it here and I'm too busy at 17:30 on a Friday to dig through it anyway - End of the week means I have to start doing the work that should have gotten done on Tuesday!

Should turn on the aircon fan when the coolant gets too hot.

If it will drive, drive it to a mechanic and pay them to fix it. If it won't drive, get it towed. It won't be your cam sensor. You have a blown fuse or a broken wire or something has burnt up or somesuch other random electrical failure that can only be diagnosed by poring over the car with a torch, a testlight or multimeter and a working diagnostic computer.

Mothballs man. Dissolve 10 mothballs in 2L of petrol and pour into the tank. Just not in cold weather. Oh, and probably not in your car. And maybe not even in your lawnmower.

You don't need to read any links. We have all known since the 1990s that Mines ECUs have aggressive timing maps and have lead many people to ping engines to death when running them on anything but the perfect 100 RON fuel that they were tuned for.

For the last time..... RB20 ECU does NOT look at the TPS variable resistor. That is for the auto trans. The ECU only looks at the closed and open throttle position switches.

Yuh, go to the Camtech website and look at the product page. It looks like this.... https://camtechcams.com.au/camshaft-search?c_association[1]=14&c_association[2]=88&c_association[3]=126&c_association[4]=127 And the answer is yes, it will go in without any "head" being done. But you need springs.

Destroy the engine and you will have less money for an ECU. Just sayin'.

Just cut away the extra material on the outside of the bush. I did it on a belt sander.

Check all the coolant and vacuum hoses under/around the inlet manifold and behind the engine. They're all old enough now that there might be some cracking. Check for missing exhaust manifold and turbo-manifold and turbo-dump bolts and nuts. Pressure test the cooling system. That's about all the other easy and worthwhile stuff I can think of for the moment.