GTSBoy

Neo ECU is for Neo, not vanilla 25. Has some sensors that the vanilla one doesn't have, leading you to have to dick around to try to make it work. Just skip it. Do the ECU properly. NA ECU, or any ECU for a 2.5L motor, should not be expected to fuel a 3L motor correctly without tuning. Vanilla RB25 ECUs cannot be tuned (easily - certainly don't take Nistune), ergo, they should not be contemplated for this sort of job.

RB25 ECU cannot be Nistuned. You can use a Nistuned R32 ECU, with a little fiddling. Going to that effort, you should probably just use a Haltech/Link/whatever the first time. You will not get a 3L to run off a 25 NA ECU. All RB starters fit. Don't worry about the studs. But if you are mating a different head to a different block, then you have a prize opportunity to put ARP studs in at the outset. Don't think about it as spending more money than you need to. Think about it simply as being a bloody good idea. There's nothing wrong with using an NA head. The best choice used to be the (now rather hard to find) R32 RB25 NA head (because no VCT). The wiring loom, for the most part, attaches to shit on the head. Not the block. But don't go into this thinking that you won't have to sort out some plugs and shit here and there.

How can a thicker gasket increase compression ratio?

Really, if it's not yours yet, and you're not real experienced with cars, you need to take along someone who is, with tools, some diagnostic equipment (like a multimeter), and some time.

Oh, hang on....earlier, you said "power is going to everything except starter". Does that mean it won't crank? Then look at my first reply, which includes rotation in the list of necessities. And now you have to work out why it won't crank. Basic automotive fault finding at its finest. Hop to it.

Are the injectors pulsing? Are they letting out fuel when they do? Are the coils firing? Are the spark plugs sparking when they do? If these are not, then either the fuel supply or the power supply to the injectors is down, or the same for the coils (minus the fuel flow). If neither of these are working you are probably down an important sensor, like the CAS, or the AFM. If these are all working then all your important sensors are probably good. If you have all that shit working, then the next question might be, does it have compression. This is the method for working out why it doesn't start. You also need to be able to touch the car. It's very hard from here.

Fuel flow, spark jump, rotation, compression. Those are the things you need to have.

Shim over bucket. Don't even think** that it is "as good as" an RB26 from that point of view. Rev it too fast and you stand a very good chance of spitting shims and saying goodbye to some $$. I would suggest not much more than 8500 rpm unless sworn to and guaranteed by a person who has experience setting up Neo heads with similar cams and springs and knows what they will and won't do. No. Do not "let the tuner play with it". Tuners and engine builders and not always the same thing. Some tuners know f**k all about the metal bits. Ask the guy who knows about the metal bits. ** That's an instruction, not my opinion.

I'm also not sure if the R34 NAs went to the 14mm caliper bolts like the turbos did. If they are still at 12mm, then fitting R34 turbo calipers requires changing the threaded inserts in the calipers. If the NAs are 12mm, the you could fit R33 calipers easily enough (on the 296mm rotor) or you could fit R32 calipers (preferably using a dogbone to push them out so you can use the 324mm rotor - which you CANNOT do nicely with the R33 caliper). The info on 12/14mm is available on here. I just can't remember.

AYC is the bit that serious EVO owners disable by fitting an RS diff anyway, for the same reasons that serious GTSt owners completely disable HICAS. It f**ks with the purity. R32 GTSt is a very capable vehicle..... after an engine transplant. 2L is not big enough for a 6 cylinder. No torque off boost. None at all. Bang in an RB25 (or anything bigger than that) in, with suitable gearbox. Add mechanical diff of some sort, bigger brakes (if planning on beating on them hard) proper suspension (springs and dampers or $3k+ worth of coilovers), change out almost every bush for a suitable selection of urethane, spherical steel. Delete HICAS. Fix the front upper arm problem. Add frontmount, fuel system, probably ignition if staying with a Nissan motor. Upgrade engine management. Better seats, better headlights. The really serious will then move on to replacing the rear subframe with an S14 or similar, to improve the geometry. The list goes on.

$10 at Jaycar. Pull a fuse, set meter to correct current range (leads in the right sockets on the meter, 2A or 20A range most likely). Start at 20A and turn down to 2A if not enough current seen to convince you that anything is chewing).

Do you have a multimeter? You know you can measure this shit directly, in a few seconds, yes?

Already angry.

VQ25 would the fun choice.

Don't need to be a specialist. These things are as common as muck and as sophisticated as a toilet plunger. If you can diagnose the complicated crap the Euros pump out, you should be able to diagnose a dirty old Nissan in seconds.

I was gunna say the same thing.

So you know what the problem is. Go fix it. How the hell do you expect us to know what it is.

Yes. What I can't remember is if they'd given up on 4 stud wheels on the NA by the time they got to the R34. If you have 4 stud, then it is a lot more work and stuff you need to get - because the turbo stuff is obviously 5 stud. Nope. NA R34s were still sliding caliper junk. R33 GTST are 4 pot Sumitomo on 296mm x 30mm rotors. There's a lot more than one thread covering this stuff on these forums. Use google to search the forums. You will get much better results.

I'm here for the gangbang.

The shift lock is the control box and beeper. It sits above your left knee/shin. As soon as you f**k off the auto trans and convert to manual you can unplug it, like I did. Have you considered spraying the inside of the solenoid with some brake-kleen or similar solvent, followed by some silicone or teflon spray lube?

1L of water ain't gunna do that much harm.

Nope. Won't work. Neo has at least one sensor that the vanilla 25 doesn't. You could f**k about and make it work, but I can't see the point in f**king about for a f**king PowerFC. There are much better ECUs available now. You would be (much) better off putting a Nistune board into an RB20 ECU than using a PowerFC. Or a proper standalone.

Put more fuel in it and just run it. Water injection (deliberate) is a thing. It won't cause any harm.

Well, it's not stock. But Why not fix it instead of removing it? An alarm on an R34 GTR seems like a f**kING GOOD IDEA.