GTSBoy

Inside the dash. Not visible without disassembly. Going back to this - have to taken them out and put them back in? I have the occasional problem in my R32 where the contact points of the fuses on the terminals get enough corrosion/oxidation on them that they get flaky. Just moving the fuses a bit is enough to fix them for the next couple of years.

Actually, yes, that one is the standard injector resistor pack. I take it that it is not connected? In which case, the injectors can't be standard, or something else is changed. Because the stock ECU won't like running low impedance injectors.

Just bell out all the pins. If one of them squeaks, it's continuous. If none of them squeak, you have a problem. Then you really do need to know which is which. Of the 2 wires on the back of the cluster - logically, if one goes to the ECU, the other is probably power or earth, no?

RB26 uses low impedance injectors, but the ECU actually likes high impedance, so the RB26 ended up with an injector resistor pack to make them work. The big silver resistor is not it. Google for images of what the injector resistor pack looks like. And bypassed HICAS is superior to working HICAS in every single way. The only thing better than bypassed HICAS is completely deleted HICAS. You can do what I did (swap in a non-HICAS subframe) or you can buy HICAS delete kits which are like lockbars on steroids. They get rid of the tie rods and tie rod ends that are one of the major annoyances of HICAS. The other major annoyance of HICAS is that it just sucks in general. Once HICAS is bypassed or deleted, it is trivial to pull out all the plumbing and solenoid valves for it, and use the rear stage of the power steering pump to drive PS fluid through a small oil cooler behind the bumper to vastly improve the life and performance of the steering system, especially if you thrash it on the track.

The Jaycar speedo corrector was mentioned on these very forums only, like, yesterday! https://www.jaycar.com.au/corrector-speedo-module/p/AA0376

Centre bore is easily dealt with with inserts. I also like the black - but I would prefer them without those dimples. Too fussy.

The R35 is a f**king Renault.

Well then. There is a manual override for the gear lever. Find it and use it to see if you can get it out of park. As to the rest, either break out the wiring diagram and a multimeter, and go looking for power and earths where they should be, or, take it to an auto eleccy.

Thought about looking for blown fuses?

Nah. 10 - 12mm to the top of the pile. As I said, they do have higher grade carpet if you want....but in general, thick plush pile carpets, while being more expensive and "luxury" aren't actually hardwearing.

I would suggest that limiting boost so as not to exceed 1:1 E/I MAP ratio is being far far far too conservative. it is not that long ago that a street turbo car would have 2 or 3 :1 ratio. I would lean on it some more. Even a1.5:1 is absolutely free breathing in real terms.

And, if you search, you find 20+ years of pre-existing learnings.

Please don't spam multiple subfora with the same question.

Notice that the R35 has sharp edges at the bottom of the tupperware? R32s do not. Pinstriping down there on an R32 would look poxy. There's no "defined" place to put it. There's a big difference between the more organic shapes of early 90s cars and the sharp edged, arbitrarily creased, multicoloured abominations that are made now.

Pretty much everything like that is available in one way or another on eBay. Just dig around with different search terms.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xnissan+trim+clip+kit.TRS0&_nkw=nissan+trim+clip+kit&_sacat=0 There are many many many options. Some make more sense than others. You can search using the term Skyline (and maybe R32 with -VW -golf added to it to piss off the Master Race car results) to refine down to things that exclude the more modern stuff.

They're not the thickest, lushest floor mats. But they are decent quality carpet. I've had them in for a few years and they still look good. Except that the plastic heel pad has cracked in the clutch pedal corner....but then I expect that from any plastic heel pad and don't hold it against it for a pair of mats that cost ~$80.

Ha! No offers! No offers! He'll get none either.

You want Nissan ones? Why? Just buy some aftermarket ones off eBay and save the $$. I have these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nismo-R32-Skyline-GTS-T-GTS-GT-R-Custom-Front-Floor-Mats-Set-of-2-FRONT-CHARCOAL/151767255869?hash=item2356088b3d:g:GusAAOSw6aVcdnfu&frcectupt=true and they're fine. They do all possible options. Fr only, Fr+rear. Logos, no logos, etc.

I will type this out for the 300000000000668684873276347th time. The signal from the sensor to the speedo head is a sawtooth (AC) voltage +/-1 volt. The speedo head converts that to a square wave PWM 0-5V signal for the ECU (and every other CU in the car that looks at speed). You have to set the Jaycar jobby up for the type of signal you are correcting, and you can't ever try to direct connect the sensor to the ECU, because they just don't speak the same language. The Jaycar one, I think, works well on AC signals and not on PWM signals. If you have a need to convert a PWM, the smart approach these days would be to program an arduino to take in, modify and spit back out. Would only take a few dozen lines of code and possibly a variable resistor to allow you to adjust the effect without reprogramming.

You've answered your own question. Assuming the Link G4+ is capable of the same things that the upper end Haltechs are (and I don't know outright, so just check)....fuel pressure sensor into ECU = input to whatever safety functions you want.

IACV. Dirty. Clean it.

This crowd, and at least 1 or 2 others out of the UK, are doing stuff like this... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BLACK-STITCHING-FOR-SKYLINE-R32-89-94-LEATHER-GEAR-BOOT-HANDBRAKE-BOOT-SET/351879677170?hash=item51eda9c4f2:g:UMcAAOSw8gVYAzAo I bought years ago. They're great.

Oil can creep forward or backward from cam seals. Usually ends up looking like your motor.

Sold. Thanks Luke.