GTSBoy

Well, they were...until someone painted them.

Those are standard wheels and you should not have rubbing problems with those tyres on that wheel. Control arm bushes could be stuffed, upper arm bushes are probably completely rooted. Both of these could cause the upright to lean the wrong way. it could have taken a hit into a kerb and moved the subframe under the chassis rails. You'd be best off taking it to a (good) wheel aligner to see if they can work it out.

He said NSW. I'm thinking......no.

26 can easily rev to 8500. Stock limit is a sensible choice, though, as they're not making wads of power above that anyway.

Do some thorough googling. There is much information on these very forums endlessly covering these points.

Spacers are not legal in Oz. Wheels that fit correctly are the best solution - assuming that the wheels that you have are the wrong offset. If the wheels are fine, you may find that you have something bent in the front end. No, we cannot diagnose that sort of thing from photos. What wheels are on the car. Width and offset.

I do believe that R32 AWD & RWD front caster rods are not compatible.

Good work. FWIW, the loom plugs on the rear have little tangs that you have to squeeze inwards to get them to release.

The solenoid could be stuck. Shit doesn't have to just "fail" electrically.

Yeah, that shouldn't happen with "stock" sized tyres. What wheels have you got on there? They must have a crappy offset - way too little poking outwards.

You won't get an answer until you pull it apart. And even then, it's only 50/50 that the answer will be evident.

Even just photos would tell the story.

Absolutely not. Have you ever looked at the two cars side by side?

Who f**ked that combustion chamber?

Still sounds like switch. (Dodgy, broken) moving parts can move the wrong way, then move back. rinse, repeat. 'Course, it could be dodgy wiring. But how can we tell from here?

Photo of leads?

Please tell me that you weren't wanting to change the cam timing to solve an obvious vacuum leak.

Isn't that the inlet cam? I thought the exhaust cam caused every other car to explode in a ball of flames.

That looks like the ribbon (or whatever the real multi-line connector) that carries the signal from the display electronics into the screen got loose and probably fully detached. Just take it apart and have a look. You might see something easy to put back!

No, you can't. Just take it to an air-con shop and get it checked and/or fixed. But note that they cannot do it unless it is actually a working system! You need to be able to run the compressor to check the system pressures. If there is no gas, then your pressure switch will keep the compressor from starting, but you sound like you have a lot more work to do first.

Yes, but, my impression was that anyone who would ask how to repair a fuel tank should not be told to weld it.

Stock photo in Japanese junkyard at the time.

Gorilla snot. (otherwise known as knead-it, or other metal filled epoxy putties).

This is one instance where right is wrong.

I put slotted (the ones with dimples also) RDAs onto my car, against advice (and also against my own opinion, but I thought I'd try them anyway). I'm not sure I'm convinced by the pedal feel. Probably wouldn't do it again. FWIW though, I don't think that slots are guaranteed to make rotors crack more/worse. Not like drilled holes do, anyway. They might increase the chances of cracks on discs that get the shit kicked out of them, but not on a streeter.