GTSBoy

You've done it now. Shovel more power into the car, less clothes on the girlfriend, turn the camera around and give us some new 'ring videos!!!!!

Well, that's perhaps not a total surprise, given Fiji is essentially just a suburb of Auckland.

Well to be fair, I think Oregon is a blue state....but that's the way I read it.

OK, in that case, Russian WTFPass pickup porn.

Oman.

Searchable question is searchable

So now you look for voltage drops across switches, etc.

Better than even odds it's the battery. Been cold lately?

There's a common power supply to all of them. how does the 12v supply look when the engine is running?

I don't think there is any such thing as a "good quality dash mat". 'Twere me, if I was thinking to stick a toupee on it, I'd go see a good trimmer and ask what they can make up. I'd get it done in a suede rather than the cheap arse carpet that dash mats are normally made of, and see how tightly it could be fitted and held down. You can sew lines of lead weights into places where you want it to sit down (like around the lower edge of the binnacle, for example), find ways to secure it in the back corners, that are not just double sided velcro tape, etc.

R32 GTR service manual is freely downloadable after 2 minutes of google. The wiring diagrams are in the back.

What just happened here?

Nah, it's cool. I was certainly more worried for your GF than your gloves. At the least, she should wear some jeans - something that will protect her a little more than nothing at all.

Splitfire part numbers like SF-DIS-001 (and 002, 003, 004 etc) are easily searchable and you can see which one belongs to which engine.

The cat sensor is the check engine light on R33s? Would suggest ECCS relay or starter relay or other somesuch connection to the ECU is not working. This is auto-elec 101 and if you can't trace it yourself using wiring diagram and multimeter, it's time to take it to the sparkie, because we will never troubleshoot it by remote control. It's always something like "a rat ate through this wire over here" or, someone left a banana on that wiring loom and it went mouldy and destroyed the RH rear parker light which took out the fuse that melted the wiring under the dash" or "I backed over a rake and it flicked up under the car and it hasn't run right since".

Good stuff Alex. 2 points that came to me. Not a lot of good you wearing long clothes and gloves if your passenger is in shorts. I know it's probably all personal choice, but it just seemed incongruous - more like you were overdoing the driving gear. And, lower the camera position a bit. Too much rear view mirror, not enough vision of the track forward of the car.

The forum software needs an auto reply function where if an OP mentions the words "miss" or "rough" it will say back "It's the f**king coils!"

Boost leaks are frequently found hiding in metal to metal seals with gaskets (think plenum, etc). What plug gaps? What are the new coils? If they are rainbow coloured, they are for rainbows. We only accept new genuine Nissan, Splitfire, or substantial upgrades as proof that they should work. State of the fuel pump? If it's dying, it can cause lean misses.

Sorry. I can't enthuse about 4-door cars. Granted, it has a hint of 35GTR around the grille and bonnet bulges, but I otherwise have trouble telling it from random Toyota/Hyundai/Kia/Mazda/Honda things. It's not offensive though.

This is what I meant by searchable https://www.google.com.au/search?safe=off&source=hp&ei=MrJnXaqwLMG_9QOE_6-IDA&q=nissan+rb20+rod+bolt+part+number&oq=nissan+rb20+rod+bolt+part+number&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i160.1222.8234..9122...0.0..0.399.9073.2-23j9......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i131j0j0i22i30j0i22i10i30j33i22i29i30j33i21.Oxis6IqQnTg&ved=0ahUKEwiqkdq2-KfkAhXBX30KHYT_C8EQ4dUDCAc&uact=5 And, I take back my earlier skepticism. It looks like they are common between the engines.

R34 brakes are not huge. Same Sumitomo caliper, just with longer mounting legs, on 310mm rotor. Much better than R32 @ 280mm though.

Spacers are shit. A bolt on is safer, but will definitely push the wheel out at least 10mm, probably 15 for the smallest ones you could get. a 5mm slip on would be the least change to wheel position, but slip ons are not a great idea. RPF1s definitely fit. The above spec I posted is what is on mine, and they have fit R32 brakes, R33 brakes and now R34 brakes.

That's nearly a write off. Lots of real panel beating to do there. If you haven't got the tools and skills, it has to go to a proper panel shop. Those panels are quite f**ked and will need a lot of massaging.

You need a small slip on spacer (at minimum), or a bigger bolt on spacer (because safer) to push the wheel out. But spacers are not a better idea than better wheels. RPF1s fit fine. 17x8 +35 fit with plenty of clearance to the spoke.

'tis nothing.