GTSBoy

Get the R32 GTR manual or diagrams. Not labelled quite as you seem to want. But if you can't work out what is what, you need more help!

I think the pressure switch is independent of HICAS. But I might be wrong. Cefiros definitely did not have HICAS. Most R32s (of any interest, not the shitty base ones) had HICAS. There is a solenoid valve on the front rack that gives the variable power assist, which is associated with HICAS. When certain things** involved in HICAS are killed/removed, you get dead heavy steering on R32s. **like the HICAS computer for a start! I would suggest that your rack might have come from a Skyline. Have you ever driven this thing? If it has the solenoid and it is unpowered, I would expect heavy steering. As to everything else....what are you doing for wiring diagrams? The full R32 RB20DET wiring diagram is available in the R32 GTR manual, which is freely downloadable in lots of places. Cefiro, I don't know. Maybe there's one somewhere. But attempting this without at least the R32 drawings would be a mad thing to do!

I think the cult of Precision is winding down now. The choices seem to be more in the Garret G series and the BW EFR. EFRs are very well proven in the power range you're talking about.

Good man.

It's probably the air-con's ambient air temp sensor.

Sorry mate. I handed to my bro-in-law, in his workshop, and he handed it back to me about 2 minutes later with the plugs all out. We proceeded to bathe it liberally in the most aggressive solvents we could find, then reassembled. From what I gathered, it wasn't hard to get it apart.

PowerFC is cheap, old, and only to be considered if you don't have the budget to go modern. Haltech's top ECUs are great. Link's top end stuff ditto.

Yuh, 400 whp is a piece of piss of the OEM manifold. And more is quite doable with the work described above.

RB20 R32 doesn't have one. Where you relocate it on an RB26 is really up to you. It's on the passenger side on RB25s because it's simpler that way. The boost source is at the turbo. It's on the driver's side on RB26s, because the boost source is the plenum. Nissan could have put the solenoid on the turbo side on the 26s, but it's pretty crowded over there. And hot. So I guess they chose based on those considerations. Don't make the lines any longer than you have to.

My guess is that a Gen3 + turbo has about double the capacity and double the cool factor as a dirty old RB30....V8 sounds, and no more weight.

If my Splitfires die, and I don't feel like spending ~$1k for R35 type coils, the Yaris coils would be what I would do. They are better coils, but not massively better. The R35/Audi/etc coils are quite a big step up though. And, don't be fooled by the kits that say "Genuine Bosch Yaris Coils". The coils may be made by Bosch.....but genuine Yaris coils were made for Toyota by Denso. The Bosch ones are effectively aftermarket. I can't tell you that they are as good as the Denso ones.

Get the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start looking around.

You know, if you do some googling, you can find pictures of this stuff. Even all the earlier threads where people have asked the same question.

Is not pulling the fuse valid for R32 era stuff? For R33 era stuff, are you not supposed to use the wire connection under the dash to relieve the pre-load pressure in the ATESSA transfer case? Driving with the pre-load left there with no driveshaft is what I was initially talking about when I suggested #notagoodidea

It's not 1975 any more. Why would you want to do this? You do appreciate that the base of the windscreen is a high pressure area, not a low pressure area, and the whole idea behind lifting the rear of the bonnet to let out out of the engine bay is invalidated by that fact? Right? And don't take the coil pack cover off. Look inside the back of the timing cover. See the slots there? There is actually a deliberate effort made by Nissan for the cam drive system to pump some air through the coil tunnel. Take the cover off and you lose that. And you have to find some other method to mount the ignitoe, which you wouldn't have to do if you didn't remove the cover.

At this very moment, on this very forum..... https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478965-nismo-mfd-new/ As to the question....no, I'm pretty sure that the Nissan made display likes to talk to the Nissan made ECU, and nothing else.

ATESSA transfer case will NOT appreciate you dropping the front driveshaft. Have you disabled it electrically too? You will blow it up if you haven't.

I dunno. Mine just came apart. Just need a decent tool.

Multimeter.

He did link. It's the bloody big thing in his post.

The maps in the Nistune board are the same as the stock chip. The operation of the ECU will be 100% the same either side of the Nistune installation.

Inside the dash. Not visible without disassembly. Going back to this - have to taken them out and put them back in? I have the occasional problem in my R32 where the contact points of the fuses on the terminals get enough corrosion/oxidation on them that they get flaky. Just moving the fuses a bit is enough to fix them for the next couple of years.

Actually, yes, that one is the standard injector resistor pack. I take it that it is not connected? In which case, the injectors can't be standard, or something else is changed. Because the stock ECU won't like running low impedance injectors.

Just bell out all the pins. If one of them squeaks, it's continuous. If none of them squeak, you have a problem. Then you really do need to know which is which. Of the 2 wires on the back of the cluster - logically, if one goes to the ECU, the other is probably power or earth, no?

RB26 uses low impedance injectors, but the ECU actually likes high impedance, so the RB26 ended up with an injector resistor pack to make them work. The big silver resistor is not it. Google for images of what the injector resistor pack looks like. And bypassed HICAS is superior to working HICAS in every single way. The only thing better than bypassed HICAS is completely deleted HICAS. You can do what I did (swap in a non-HICAS subframe) or you can buy HICAS delete kits which are like lockbars on steroids. They get rid of the tie rods and tie rod ends that are one of the major annoyances of HICAS. The other major annoyance of HICAS is that it just sucks in general. Once HICAS is bypassed or deleted, it is trivial to pull out all the plumbing and solenoid valves for it, and use the rear stage of the power steering pump to drive PS fluid through a small oil cooler behind the bumper to vastly improve the life and performance of the steering system, especially if you thrash it on the track.