GTSBoy

No, not outdated. Uses the original ECU, which is a really solid choice for a lightly modded engine, because the Nissan ECU already knows how to make the best use of the CAS signal, idle control, etc etc. On top of that, Matt @ Nistune is constantly developing the product, and it can do all sort of things that used to be only able to be achieved with expensive aftermarket ECUs. You can have flex-fuel now, for example. Nistune is a bit limited compared to very modern aftermarket ECUs, but I would choose (and have chosen) Nistune of PFC every single time.

Aaw, c'mon. Two points here. 1) Whilst I understand why the TT design includes the handbrake interlock, wiring it in is a complete pain in the arse, both in terms of actually wiring it in, and also in terms of having to pull on the handbrake before you turn off the key. And 2)

If you are using a DMM to measure what's going on it's anyone's guess what voltage you would see. The optical switches will go from 0-5V every time a slot passes. A DMM is not fast enough racting to show these transitions, so on the 1° pin you will likely/possibly see a constant voltage between 0 and 5v. But....that's not great diagnostically. You're not getting the full story. On the 120° pin (actually, if you take the 1° pin to be 1°, then the other pin is actually 60°) frequency of switching is 1/60th of the 1° pin's, so depending on whether it's spending more time at 0v or at 5v, you will either see a lower or higher voltage on it than the 1° pin. I wouldn't know what to expect because I would never try to use a DMM tp probe the CAS pins while cranking. Time for a compression test. And take the cam covers off and make sure you haven't broken a cam.

That's not how the CAS works. The CAS has a couple of optical switches in it that turn on and off every time a slot goes past the sensors. One pin is power in, one pin is earth. The other 2 pins are the output of the switches to the ECU. You should not be expecting constant voltages on any pin on the CAS that actually matters (apart from the power supply), and of course you should expect the output pins to change as you turn it. One of them will change state at every single degree of rotation. Anyway, are the injectors actually pulsing?

A good portion of the roads in Fiji are built from surplus speedhumps imported from Albania. At least that's what it feels like. As much as it is heresy to say so on here (please god, don't let slap find this thread) I would choose an Evo or an STI over a Skyline (in Fiji and places like it) simply because they work well even with high ride height and "rally" style suspension. Hell, for half the roads within easy reach of my house I'd be better off with EVO/WRX style vehicle.

Jack it up high like the MCM Outfap to handle the roads?

Are you aware that the RB20 ECU gives no fark for the TPS voltage? It's not an RB25. The RB20 uses the closed throttle switch and the 100% throttle switch. The potentiometer output on the TPS is used by the TCU only. Stop trying to set it the way that you do for an RB25. The correct approach is to adjust it so that when the engine is running at idle, when you _just_ tweak the throttle open the tiniest amount, the ECU will double pulse the injectors. You can hear them make a click-click noise when it happens (over and above the steady clicking rate at idle).

'Twere me, coming from an engineering environment where ISO9001 rules and ruins our lives, if I were getting an engine back from the machine shop, I would want to see the record sheets for the measurements made at the end of the machining processes that shows conformance to the stated requirements.

I like the crickets at the end. Very fitting. I don't think I would be worrying about your noise.

Yes. Input shaft is driven by the clutch whenever the clutch is engaged. Neutral just means that there's nothing meshed to the input shaft. My R33 box makes a truly enormous amount of rollover noise. Clutch in at idle and the background noise level drops appreciably.

Have spent some time there.

Dunno. Sounds like mine shutting off. The "clunk" is not really a clunk. It sounds like gearbox rollover noise coming to a stop. The hiss is also normal, and in they all do it. The options are; Air leaking in to a volume that is under vacuum (ie brake booster, or plenum chamber) through a small leak. The IACV would qualify as such a small leak into the plenum that would perhaps make that sound and you only hear it because all the other noise suddenly stops. Fuel flowing away through the reg as it closes up when demand from the injectors suddenly stops. Other such similar crap.

Just go to an import wrecker. They usually have dozens of them stacked up somewhere.

Well, you could look at it with all the obvious clues...... It's not an R32 engine, and the dump pipe won't accept an R32 O2 sensor. So, it is therefore either an R33 or R34 unit. So, you could just ask the parts supplier what thread is on each of those (likely to be the same for both) and just go from there. But now you bump up against the wiring problem. I have no idea about these specifically, but are the R32s 3 wire and the later ones 4 wire? Because you can't just go chuck a 4 wire onto a 3-wire loom. You're back to what Duncan said about matching the sensor to the ECU. If you have spare R32 dump pipes, your best bet might be to fit those. Then they will accept R32 sensors and the planets will align again.

And also, FWIW, any narrow band O2 sensor that has similar enough characteristics will work. I put one from an EL falcon (or somesuch similar shitbox) onto my R32 when it died a million years ago. These are not rocket science.

You may be best off trying to video this and find the best spot to put the camera/mic for us to hear it. And if you're going to go to that effort, you might end up putting the camera/mic in odd places, like on the ground next to the gearbox to see if the noise is coming from down there.

Need photo of it coming out from the Sim Lim Square carpark, or with Merlion and Marina Bay Sands in the background. Will also accept flying run on Sentosa Gateway, hard parked at Raffles or the fire station next to Fort Canning Park or video of a high speed run down Orchard Rd as proof.

No. That's the opposite. Early ones (RB20s, S1 RB25s) have a separate ignitor pack. Later ones are integrated.

yellowpages.com.au Still a way to find businesses that do certain things.

This thing called the Yellow Pages should help. There's got to be 20 options in Syd. If it's unreg, then you don't need to drive it on any given day, so take the rack out and take it to get reconditioned at the usual suspects and bring it back and put it back in. Easy. Tie rod ends separate with the use of 2x medium sized hammers. Look it up. I'd replace them at the same time. An R32 that old, they're bound to be a bit thrashed.

There's so much visible rust there that the windscreen lip is bound to have rusted.

Untuned and the mixtures are wrong. No surprises here.

No, it's not used for boost control. It's mostly for "don't f**k with me" engine protection function.

The ECU uses it pretty much only for 2 things. 1, to know that the engine is actually on boost. 2, to pull protective measures when the boost exceeds a max programmed in the ECU.

Space saver.