GTSBoy

How low was your bloody pedal!?

Known working - not at stock boost. At whatever power level you are running the engine at. the more boost, the harder the coils have to work.

Going to be the first time that anyone has bought a wreck just to get all the fasteners!

You need more powerful coils.

They look like they've been treated pretty badly. A 200lb gorilla could have leaned on the wrenches to tighten that bottom ring. The threads could be compressed underneath, etc etc. You should probably take them off the car so you can work out them without the knuckle damaging confinement. A vice &/or two other people to anchor them might make it 10x easier to work out.

Take it to an auto electrician.

If it differs from the R34 one I'd be somewhat surprised.

I would doubt that they are rock hard. That sounds neither like Nismo nor Bilstein.

Is that because of large duration? Because otherwise they're not mutually exclusive, and VCT is worth a LOT of cam.

I said get the GTR manual

Correct assumption.

Squishy bushes are comfortable by sloppy. Poly bushes add a certain amount of NVH. Most Nissans older than yours have at least poly, if not alloy bushes all through the back end by now.

Download the R32 GTR service manual and look for the GTS4 auto wiring in the wiring diagrams (will be the same as what you have). Look for the shift interlock and start tracking it down from there. There is a manual release on these things, I think. Don't remember where it is though. Time and excuse enough for a manual conversion if you ask me!

You can spend the hours on the rods instead of Rand. Back in the bad old days, I spent many hours polishing ALFA rods and other things that it wasn't worth spending cubic $$ on new billet stuff for. And in those days, pre-Chinese manufacturing, anything aftermarket cost waaay too much anyway.

It'll be the same as Maxima or Pathfinder or something equally shitful.

Given that Whiteline have a poly bush kit (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whiteline-Rear-Diff-Mount-Front-Bush-For-Nissan-Skyline-V35-V36-Stagea-M35/192741676619?fits=Model%3ASkyline&epid=1847214044&hash=item2ce04c964b:g:MS0AAOSwOI5dVAQV&frcectupt=true) available, I'd be sure that all the other usual suspects would too. Thus there should be no doubt that you can just flick the old Nissan elastogoosh bush and replace with something else.

f**king Stageas.

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions. Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

You should wired up everything that should have been wired up to a manual. Neutral switch, clutch switch. Make sure the IACV is working, etc etc.

Obvs the switch.

It sounds so incredibly wrong!

Interesting. Seems like a kooky version of the VL that was built a million years ago, but with more room for tyre! Not sure if I would have left it as an RB26 though. Needs to be at least an RB30, or a VH conversion like Benny's Stagea.

The simple answer is that they are nothing "special". They are Bilstein dampers, which makes them very nice, capable dampers that last a long time, can work across a fairly wide range of spring rates and soak up a lot of bumpiness with good comfort levels. They're basically a B8 equivalent, I think.

Caliper ears are the same thickness, mounting flanges are the same thickness. I'd tell you what they are, but I'll have to take a wheel off, and that ain't happening until at least the weekend!